Par range for milli, arco, SPS?

[Jakef150]

I just changed to AI sol blue.

I have a chance to loan par meter for few day.

I'm curious, what's best range par for SPS ?

Thanks
Jake

 

[Logzor]

Depends on the SPS. Typical range for in a reef aquarium should be between 200 and 700 PAR. Some will tolerate all those levels very well but other may be more particular. You kind of have to experiment.

For example, my green slimer will probably be just as happy at 300 PAR as it will be at 700+. It's a very tolerate acro.

Start out very low with you sol module. Don't start anything under 700 PAR. Very slowly ramp up.

 

[blakers82]

Start out very low with you sol module. Don't start anything under 700 PAR. Very slowly ramp up.

Surely you meant to say to not start above 700?? I'd agree. Slowly ramp those babies up. I would take a long time and maybe not max out depending on the corals.

 

[Jakef150]

Updated with par meter

Updated with par meter

ok i got a chance...

i was surprised that Par meter showed way LOW!

I used a Apogee 1644

AI SOL BLUE 12" is 14" above from water line ( Biocube 29)

Set W 40 - BL 45 - RY 45

Par reading:

Waterline 190

Middle height 94

ground 61

corner middle height 66, 61, 73, 58

no wonder ZOA stalks are screaming for more light LOL!.

So i increased to 50w-60ry-55ry

waterline - 420

middle - 103

corner middle height range 80-94

Most SPS are in the middle height and on side (rack)

Should i increase little more or ??

advice or suggest will be great!!


thanks


Jake

 

[dzhuo]

I used a Apogee 1644

FYI. The Apogee undervalue blue spectrum and overvalue red spectrum. Here is an official explanation from Apogee:

"Apogee quantum sensors underweight blue light, and as a result, photon flux measurements for blue LEDs will be too low. Also, the quantum sensors overweight red light up to a wavelength of approximately 650 nm, above which they do not measure, and as a result, photon flux measurement for red LEDs will either be too high (if the LED output is all below 650 nm) or too low (if a non-negligible fraction of the LED output is above 650 nm). Our quantum sensors will likely provide a reasonable measurement for white LEDs because they are broadband, and because the sensors are calibrated under CWF lamps. However, because of the diversity of LED lighting systems the precise errors have not been quantified. The current spectral response of our quantum sensor can be viewed on our website (http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/qua...lresponse.html). We are currently working on better filtering in order to achieve a sharp cutoff at both the 400 and 700 nm wavelengths, but this improvement is still a few months away.

That being said, Apogee quantum sensors can be used to measure the relative output of an LED or bank of LEDs, in order to track variability in output with time or temperature for example. However, quantum sensors should not be used to characterize the absolute output of LEDs (except for the possibility of white LEDs), to compare one LED to another, or to determine photon flux for plant growth for example."

And here is the link to the Apogee response curve: Measure photosynthetic photon flux

Your tank might not be receiving as little PAR as you think it does (due to the overly blue nature of LED).

 

[Jakef150]

yikes...good to know .

I guess i could set it back to orignial set up 40-45-45 ...


thanks

 

[roberto_lopes]

Start slow or you will toast all your corals.

Mine starts high because already using LED for years. Even so. I started with 60 70 70.

 

[sminker]

Millis can take ALOT of light. I have all three of my large Milli colonies directly under 400 watt halides with Lumenmax Elite fixtures, I know its not LEDs but PAR is PAR no matter what the source. I wouldnt blast them with super intense light unless you have good water flow over them.

 

[Felixc395]

Just go slow. When I place a coral, I prefer to mess around with the settings, changing W, B, and RB all in the same ratio of a percentage up or down. After a couple days to a week, ultimately the coral decides what it likes best. No need for a PAR meter really, just your eyes IMO.

Same goes for water parameters. Often, you don't need to test, your corals will tell you what they need, you just have to keep an eye out for it.

 

[Jakef150]

Just go slow. When I place a coral, I prefer to mess around with the settings, changing W, B, and RB all in the same ratio of a percentage up or down. After a couple days to a week, ultimately the coral decides what it likes best. No need for a PAR meter really, just your eyes IMO.

Same goes for water parameters. Often, you don't need to test, your corals will tell you what they need, you just have to keep an eye out for it.

thank for tips!!!
Jake

 

[Felixc395]

thank for tips!!!
Jake

No problem! I should add that there are times when testing is beneficial as well. Such as magnesium for example. It's not as self evident as calcium or alkalinity that show drastic signs, burnt tips, slow growth, etc. So a PAR meter can't hurt, I'm just saying it's not always needed.

Hopefully you'll find your answers! Best of luck!