PAR under T5 lights for SPS tank
- Thread starter takayan
- Start date
takayan
Premium Member
ksc,
i understand what you are saying. I am just wondering there many PAR information about MH, but why no T5 fixture of PAR are available as long as I know.
I think ATI Powermodule 8x54W on 48" tank might be common setting on SPS tank. Do you have PAR info for this setting?
i understand what you are saying. I am just wondering there many PAR information about MH, but why no T5 fixture of PAR are available as long as I know.
I think ATI Powermodule 8x54W on 48" tank might be common setting on SPS tank. Do you have PAR info for this setting?
stony_corals
New member
Because it is highly dependent upon which bulbs are used in fixtures. Certainly the PAR in an 8 bulb PowerModule with all GE 3K would be much different than the same PowerModule with all actinics......
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I took readings of my old MH setup and new T5 setup and posted comparisons in this thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14976874#post14976874
Forgot to metion its overdriven on icecap 660 ballasts, and bulb combo is:
ATI Blue+
Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue Special
GE 6500k
Aquascience Blue 22k
ATI Aquablue Special
VHO Super Actinic
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14976874#post14976874
Forgot to metion its overdriven on icecap 660 ballasts, and bulb combo is:
ATI Blue+
Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue Special
GE 6500k
Aquascience Blue 22k
ATI Aquablue Special
VHO Super Actinic
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
takayan
Premium Member
Ryan,
This is what I wanted to see!!!!
Then, I am very curious how much PAR does SPS need for good color? (I know the lighting is only one of the factor for coloration.)
Here is the useful link. One link says Acrrpora needs to have 600-1000 PAR, but it looks very difficult to meet.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/1/lines/view
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php
This is what I wanted to see!!!!
Then, I am very curious how much PAR does SPS need for good color? (I know the lighting is only one of the factor for coloration.)
Here is the useful link. One link says Acrrpora needs to have 600-1000 PAR, but it looks very difficult to meet.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/1/lines/view
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I think 600-1000 is more than you want in the general case for acros. if you look through more AA literature on PAR and photo inhibition, a great many acro's photosaturate in the 200-600 range, while there aren't as many that continue to do more photosynthesis above those levels. I think the scale on that AA page you linked is a bit biased in the high end. 0-400 is low and 500-600 is medium???? I don't think its as simple as that and I question the usefulness of that scale.
another example: that page says "Montipora: 400-800"
IMO that's on the high end. plenty of montis will be happy in the 200-300 range.
another example: that page says "Montipora: 400-800"
IMO that's on the high end. plenty of montis will be happy in the 200-300 range.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
This article examines the photo saturation and inhibition of SPS and T. Maxima:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/view?searchterm=how much light is enough
notice most everything they test is well under 600.... only a T. Maxima and Purple Porites are still rockin' above that.
It's also worth noting that water flow speed affects the point at which photo inhibition occurs. Put plainly, more flow means corals can take more light.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/view?searchterm=how much light is enough
notice most everything they test is well under 600.... only a T. Maxima and Purple Porites are still rockin' above that.
It's also worth noting that water flow speed affects the point at which photo inhibition occurs. Put plainly, more flow means corals can take more light.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
its not at all a measure of what is 'needed'
Photo-Inhibition and Photo-Saturation are not the same, but they both describe how much photosynthesis is occuring at a given light intensity.
The point of Onset PhotoSaturation means "from this point on, more light does not equal an increase in photosynthesis"
The point of Onset PhotoInhibition means "from this point on, more light equals a decrease in photosynthesis"
Put another way, photosaturation means its getting all the light it can handle; photoinhibition means it is getting too much.
Neither have anything to do with photoperiod.
And corals do not NEED to reach photosaturation. Since we as hobbysists have no real way to measure photosynthesis, it's probably best to err on the side of caution and not blast every coral with too much light. IMO.
Photo-Inhibition and Photo-Saturation are not the same, but they both describe how much photosynthesis is occuring at a given light intensity.
The point of Onset PhotoSaturation means "from this point on, more light does not equal an increase in photosynthesis"
The point of Onset PhotoInhibition means "from this point on, more light equals a decrease in photosynthesis"
Put another way, photosaturation means its getting all the light it can handle; photoinhibition means it is getting too much.
Neither have anything to do with photoperiod.
And corals do not NEED to reach photosaturation. Since we as hobbysists have no real way to measure photosynthesis, it's probably best to err on the side of caution and not blast every coral with too much light. IMO.
stony_corals
New member
That's not what I'm saying at all... What I am saying is that depending on you bulbs, ballast, reflectors and active cooling, the range of PAR values can vary significantly with T5s. So if you are running a PowerModule, you should be fine using good T5s. IMHO, you'll be running 150+ PAR at the bottom. Most T5 users won't have 1000 PAR in the system, but running 500-700 is pretty good midlevel and up.
