Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Thanks for very brief advises , well noted and I have contact my dealer to help me adding installation of the DI chamber.

By the way , according to my water filter dealer they said the water coming out from DI system are not advisable to be use for drinking?

As my RO system was located under my sink at the kitchen and I plan to take this opportunity when installing the DI chamber that I will run the hose or tubing from the sink to the location of my AWC system which is about 30 feet apart . I wonder can this run that long distance?

Furthermore , I wonder how much time usually the 0 TDS will went up ? What will be the allowable range or it has to be solid 0 TDS and if went up to even 1 then we have to change the DI chamber ?
 
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Many folks incorrectly think that drinking purified water is dangerous because they incorrectly think that the pure water will somehow deplete their body of essential minerals. There is, however, another valid concern - unless properly sterilized, purified water, especially if it's stored, can develop unhealthy bacterial loads because it no longer contains the chlorine/chloramine that kills them. But that applies to carbon filtered RO water, not just RODI.

Yes, you need 0 ppm water for your reef at all times. If the TDS goes above zero, it's time to change the resin. You should consider purchasing and installing an in-line TDS meter along with the DI resin cartridge.
 
Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Yes , people want to removed unwanted element but want to retain some minerals , really kind of confusion ha!

In line TDS is cool ! But seems to be hard to find here in Taiwan , I have to Check. But we can easily buy the TDS pen . Is there any specific specs for this kind of TDS meter even the pen type ?

My RO unit are disposable type and so with the DI chamber that my dealer is about to install for me , so I think they will not sell the refillable resin chamber like you have in the U.S. Perhaps for business point of view.

Here is my RO system :

775d08fcddc674cf525693c077594f7a.jpg


Cheers ,

MD
 
Well, here in the States in-line TDS meters are quite common - almost all of the major net retailers that deal in RODI units sell them. They're typically about 30 US dollars, and all of them work for our purposes as reefers, which is to let us know when our DI resin is saturated and needs to be replaced.

Here's a page from Bulk Reef Supply with several examples so you can at least see what they look like and whether you could source one in Taiwan.
 
Thanks again dkeller,

You are very supportive and your advises really help me a lot.

Hopefully this is the main issue of my corals browning and dying .

I think looking for in line TDS here is quiet difficult since I have search and all only sell pen style TDS meter. Anyway , that will be good enough at least for me to check my TDS value of my Tank and for my RODI system then.

Much wonder be it pen style or yours in line TDS meter shall it be constantly change any parts like the electrode in Ph probe that has life span?

Also I think it will take a while for my tank water to be totally change with new RODI top off and mix salt water to lower the TDS then. So this may be a long quest before I will try to put some Acros to see if they will get better then.
 
Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Just for Curiosity, if I use some normal 3 chamber filter without the RO membrane chamber and it will just connect to DI chamber then, will this provide a 0 TDS too?

Normal 3 chamber filter less the RO membrane chamber like below:

bd94b71ea1d573a195a728ea0467ace3.jpg
 
You mean run DI without RO?

You will deplete the resin significantly faster, and there are compounds the RO will catch that the DI won't.
 
I'm not sure I'm completely understanding your question about a conductivity pen. Yes, they do go bad after a while (generally a long while, they're pretty sturdy). But you can buy conductivity standard solutions to check that the unit's reading is still accurate.

With respect to your question about the standard holders - in the States, most folks run a standard holder with a refillable DI resin cartridge (and they buy the mixed cation/anion exchange resin in bulk and simply refill the cartridge when it's exhausted). Note that the DI resin in the standard holder is plumbed so that the water feeding it is coming from the RO membrane housing, so the order for purifying the water is mechanical filtration, carbon filtration, reverse osmosis, and deionization.
 
Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Thanks that fully clear my doubts. Thanks again so much .

I actually will be installing the said DI chamber this weekend. And I am planning if I installed a whole new set instead of adding DI chamber to my existing one, this means another set of new RO+DI system , I think these one offer to me is rated 100 gallon per day, I think this will be good enough but I wonder if this rating is just the normal one or the biggest one ? My existing unit I guess is just 10 gallon per day and it looks this is 10 times my existing one. It cost around USD 300 for the whole set. I also wonder if this rating will easily exhausted my media resin at the end?

What is the capacity normally you have in the U.S.?
 
Typical RODI systems for hobbyists in the US are 75 gallons-per-day or 150 gallons-per-day. For the vast majority of us with 3 or 4 tanks, the 75 gpd is more than adequate.
 
Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Thanks Dkeller,

Certainly , I guess a much high rated (g/day) will easily exhausted the DI media resin and even the RO membrane too considering the municipal water quality and residual level. Right ?

Good advise I got from my posting here and shall report back how my tank be improved with this DI chamber installation . May be it will take a while until my old tank water totally been replaced them.

I wish to know what salt mix gives low alkalinity as I guess this will be another one of my concern after water got 0 TDS since that high Alk have been causing Stned in the past . Will post this topic on reef Chemistry discussion forum.

Thanks a billion to all !

Cheers ,

MD
 
I have already received my DI chamber but It was all written in Mandrin and nothing said in English as it is Deionized chamber . All I can translate is it indicate about super pure water and not advisable for human drinking.

Here is the chamber :

2238a7c9cd971d1782fc339827cd47eb.jpg


cfc3eb0199c5f3bb4349cbfb6ca68821.jpg


e79b91b5df0576e19e4cd59c2d114a60.jpg


I also have tested my RO water (without DI) and it has a TDS of 6 ppm. I also have try to tested the TDS of my tank water and it give TDS over 3,000 ppm and then the LCD of the Pen type tester show ERR

I think salt water as it has so many different elements and Mineral that is why the TDS is way too high and unable to be detected as show in the pen type tester
 
If you want a sort of a positive control test destilled water. TDS meters are not calibrated to measure sea water. Sea water TDS leveld are out of range of this equipments.
 
Just for Curiosity, if I use some normal 3 chamber filter without the RO membrane chamber and it will just connect to DI chamber then, will this provide a 0 TDS too?

Normal 3 chamber filter less the RO membrane chamber like below:

bd94b71ea1d573a195a728ea0467ace3.jpg
Are those metal fittings or are they stainless on your ro unit? they could be rusting. Also all those tangs in that tiny tank?
 
Pardon me for putting this posting over here .....but it's related to SPS

Report here:
DI now installed to my existing RO , therefore mine right now is RODI and tested water TDS : after RO (6 ppm) after DI (0 ppm) .

Here is the system :

112db49cc91ef5de18fe29a4f6d30368.jpg


I wonder how long to keep the water drain before using in my Tank ? Or if the TDS go Zero then can start using ?

Crossing my fingers hoping TDS stay zero for a long while with this additional DI chamber . I have seen some one that TDS goes up from zero to 1 in a matter of a day. Does anyone has this experiences?

Cheers,

MD
 
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When you start your RODI system , after having it several days non working, first collect 1liter (more or less) of RO water . As you were doing. After that, start to collect RODI water.

You need to have a T in the line that connects you RO with the DI cartridge. When the system is not in use you have a kind of accumulation of "whatever" in the membrane. When you start the system you need to flush that membrane. That is the firs 1-2 liters or RO water you collect in a bottle (good water for drinking). When you close the T and the water goes to the DI carrtrige , you expect to have ~ 6-8 ppm entering in the DI and going out 0 ppm . That is high quality water.

Normally, wash your filters when you use them for the first time. Produce 1-2 G of RODI water and you Are ready to go.
 
Ops ! I have drain the water for about some few liters but as soon as it gives TDS 0 then I start use it mixing salt ! OMG!
 
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