Petland
- Thread starter mandelbrot
- Start date
Steve Seymour
Premium Member
WOW I havent been able to have much time online with everything going on lately, and just seen the thread Petland and it was odd seeing it. I can understand why Matt was asking for advice on here b/c everyone knows this is where you get all sort of answers and possibilities for different problems. IMO If the "owner" doesnt give the cash flow for up to par setups, then your fighting a loosing battle. Thats my opinion but then again everybody has one!
mandelbrot
New member
In respects, some of this does come off almost as advertising when I start mentioning changing prices and the like. Chris is correct saying, "Even if you say you aren't, you are"... forum moderators have a fine line between store discussion and advertisement when it comes to employees of an establishment.
From now on, I'll keep the information strictly to anything I may have done with the systems or am trying to do with the systems as far as making the operable. This will be for the sake of keeping anyone from offering suggestions that are already being used, have been accomplished or are planned, etc.
Again, I appreciate all advice and comments I have recieved, both here and in PM's.
-Matt
P.S. Though, is it really advertising when we all know an RC member isn't ever going to purchase anything from the store.
From now on, I'll keep the information strictly to anything I may have done with the systems or am trying to do with the systems as far as making the operable. This will be for the sake of keeping anyone from offering suggestions that are already being used, have been accomplished or are planned, etc.
Again, I appreciate all advice and comments I have recieved, both here and in PM's.
-Matt
P.S. Though, is it really advertising when we all know an RC member isn't ever going to purchase anything from the store.
Hypertek99
In Memoriam
Good luck on the battle matt. Oh and say hi to Ashley for me. I use to go to petland but haven't stepped in there for a long time now. The prices there are outragous.
mandelbrot
New member
You'd be surprised. I've had to remove dry good items from the shelf due to either expiration dates or enough aging that the products had actually started to split, crack, etc.
I wish I could explain the pricing; however, since I'm not involved in the process, I'm left with little knowledge as to why we're so high for the region.
It's been a rather unusual experience working here after spending so long at PAW. They either haven't hired enough of the right people or there hasn't ever really been a set of standards for the department. Both, perhaps.
Hopefully, I can accomplish enough to fall into the "right people" category.
I wish I could explain the pricing; however, since I'm not involved in the process, I'm left with little knowledge as to why we're so high for the region.
It's been a rather unusual experience working here after spending so long at PAW. They either haven't hired enough of the right people or there hasn't ever really been a set of standards for the department. Both, perhaps.
Hopefully, I can accomplish enough to fall into the "right people" category.
what's really hard for me to believe is a city the size of roanoke doesn't have a lfs worth going to.... well we have two but they are a chamber of horrors as far as livestock goes! these creatures should be let where they were rather than end up in either of the two stores in town. it's just plain cruel the way the places treat their livestock! and i personally wouldn't buy anything from either one.
i think there should be some kind of standards these stores must meet before they can keep animals..... i don't know exactly what that should be, but it should be some kind of minimal standard that could be figured out.
as i think we all know there is a very nice store in salem and thats the only store in this area, that should be selling any livestock. imho....
i think there should be some kind of standards these stores must meet before they can keep animals..... i don't know exactly what that should be, but it should be some kind of minimal standard that could be figured out.
as i think we all know there is a very nice store in salem and thats the only store in this area, that should be selling any livestock. imho....
mandelbrot
New member
Ok. Here's some information for those looking for some ways to help. These are the results of today's water tests for both the "Fish" and "Reef" systems.
Reef:
pH - 8.3
Amm - 0 ppm
NO2 - 0 ppm
NO3 - 4 ppm
Phos - 0 ppm
kH - 10 degrees
Fish:
pH - 8.4
Amm - 0 ppm
NO2 - 0 ppm
NO3 - 10 ppm
Phos - 5 ppm
kH - 10 degrees
Copper: 0.5 ppm
Oddly, it's with the "Reef" system that I've had the most difficulty keeping the cyano contained and managable. Though, this may be due to the fact that most of the cyano growing in the "Fish" system was in the sump... the "Reef" system has more cyano-propagating areas in the tanks themselves.
I'm conducting another water change today and will be adding Seachem's PhosGuard to the "Fish" system to help with the elimination of the phosphates. Hopefully it will provide some help in keeping the systems managable until an overhaul will be possible.
Mind you, I got my hands all into the sumps this morning. I'm not even certain I want to think about what sort of strange lifeforms were caked onto the sides and clogged up in the bio-bales (yes, bales, not balls). There's still more sump cleaning to accomplish, but a good portion of it is taken care of.
If this information helps any of you who have been providing some assistance with any new ideas or ideas that I'm simply overlooking, please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Reef:
pH - 8.3
Amm - 0 ppm
NO2 - 0 ppm
NO3 - 4 ppm
Phos - 0 ppm
kH - 10 degrees
Fish:
pH - 8.4
Amm - 0 ppm
NO2 - 0 ppm
NO3 - 10 ppm
Phos - 5 ppm
kH - 10 degrees
Copper: 0.5 ppm
Oddly, it's with the "Reef" system that I've had the most difficulty keeping the cyano contained and managable. Though, this may be due to the fact that most of the cyano growing in the "Fish" system was in the sump... the "Reef" system has more cyano-propagating areas in the tanks themselves.
I'm conducting another water change today and will be adding Seachem's PhosGuard to the "Fish" system to help with the elimination of the phosphates. Hopefully it will provide some help in keeping the systems managable until an overhaul will be possible.
Mind you, I got my hands all into the sumps this morning. I'm not even certain I want to think about what sort of strange lifeforms were caked onto the sides and clogged up in the bio-bales (yes, bales, not balls). There's still more sump cleaning to accomplish, but a good portion of it is taken care of.
If this information helps any of you who have been providing some assistance with any new ideas or ideas that I'm simply overlooking, please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Last edited:
surfnvb7
Premium Member
copper MUST be zero (0) in a reef system, there is no exception. and once copper has tainted a system, its almost impossible to get out. so as far as your reef system goes, it has to be drained, cleaned, all of the contaminated rocks/sand/rubble are to be throw out. any filters in the reef system should also be tossed. b/c you will never get that copper out of the system.
be sure to check the copper levels in the fish system, b/c if they are zero (O), you may be able to switch which systems are reef and fish.
low levels of copper are "ok" in your fish only systems, b/c allot of medications contain small amounts of copper. but you still have to do regularly scheduled water changes to keep those levels in check.
as far as the fish only system, 5ppm of phosphates is unacceptable. thats higher than some tap water i've tested. getting phosphates down is going to be a losing battle unless you can identify where the phosphates are coming from. its most likely poor DI water quality, and the rocks. so again, i'd toss the rocks out, drain the tanks, clean and disinfect. then make sure to get new DI tanks and make sure your conductivity is below 10 (like Nbmaxx suggested)
phosphates and copper are very hard to rid of. it will be a losing battle to keep these systems running and try to use chemicals to neutralize these things. in fact, the more chemicals you add to correct for other things, the worse you are probably making things as allot of chemicals also contain phosphates.
be sure to check the copper levels in the fish system, b/c if they are zero (O), you may be able to switch which systems are reef and fish.
low levels of copper are "ok" in your fish only systems, b/c allot of medications contain small amounts of copper. but you still have to do regularly scheduled water changes to keep those levels in check.
as far as the fish only system, 5ppm of phosphates is unacceptable. thats higher than some tap water i've tested. getting phosphates down is going to be a losing battle unless you can identify where the phosphates are coming from. its most likely poor DI water quality, and the rocks. so again, i'd toss the rocks out, drain the tanks, clean and disinfect. then make sure to get new DI tanks and make sure your conductivity is below 10 (like Nbmaxx suggested)
phosphates and copper are very hard to rid of. it will be a losing battle to keep these systems running and try to use chemicals to neutralize these things. in fact, the more chemicals you add to correct for other things, the worse you are probably making things as allot of chemicals also contain phosphates.
mandelbrot
New member
My bad on the "Reef" copper...that should've been with the "Fish" system.
mandelbrot
New member
Test kits...ick.
Right now, all I can get access to is the API brand, which isn't bad for FW testing, but it's not the greatest or most accurate for SW. I'd like to bring in Sera's test kits, but it's only cost effective ordering direct from their U.S. warehouse and that requires us to apply as a retailer with them. At present, that's not something I'll be able to accomplish... it took me nearly two months to convince them we should be getting our SW fish from a different distributor.
What I may wind up doing is ebaying some decent test kits out of pocket.
And I'll be testing the "Reef" for copper as soon as I get this cyano mess out from under my fingernails. I'd rather not run an experiment to see if it has managed to gain sentience in these systems and preparing to usurp the control of my mind.
Right now, all I can get access to is the API brand, which isn't bad for FW testing, but it's not the greatest or most accurate for SW. I'd like to bring in Sera's test kits, but it's only cost effective ordering direct from their U.S. warehouse and that requires us to apply as a retailer with them. At present, that's not something I'll be able to accomplish... it took me nearly two months to convince them we should be getting our SW fish from a different distributor.
What I may wind up doing is ebaying some decent test kits out of pocket.
And I'll be testing the "Reef" for copper as soon as I get this cyano mess out from under my fingernails. I'd rather not run an experiment to see if it has managed to gain sentience in these systems and preparing to usurp the control of my mind.
surfnvb7
Premium Member
well, as you know different test kits and yield different results, and no one really knows which ones are right.
but what you can do, is get some test kits that most people use, and compare your results to other standard results using those test kits. so at least you'll know where you stand when in comparison to the majority of people.
i'd suggest heading over to UA, and get some salifert test kits from chris. i've looked on ebay, and you can't find salifert test kits for much cheaper. whatever money you save (a couple bucks), will be used up in expensive shipping anyways.
whether you choose to do that out of your own pocket, or convince management to give up the store credit card.....is up to you.
but if you can get ahold of those salifert test kits, it would give you a MUCH clearer picture on where you stand.
but what you can do, is get some test kits that most people use, and compare your results to other standard results using those test kits. so at least you'll know where you stand when in comparison to the majority of people.
i'd suggest heading over to UA, and get some salifert test kits from chris. i've looked on ebay, and you can't find salifert test kits for much cheaper. whatever money you save (a couple bucks), will be used up in expensive shipping anyways.
whether you choose to do that out of your own pocket, or convince management to give up the store credit card.....is up to you.
but if you can get ahold of those salifert test kits, it would give you a MUCH clearer picture on where you stand.
J. Montgomery
Mouth Pipetting
Bad Idea! No point in pouring your own money into the stores tanks.
mandelbrot
New member
When it comes to less expensive items, I don't mind shelling out some cash if it means I can have a better chance with these systems. In respects, while the store owns the aquariums, they are, effectively, my tanks as the department manager.
And, honestly, I want my tanks to be operable and aesthetically pleasing. But, of course, operable first.
And, honestly, I want my tanks to be operable and aesthetically pleasing. But, of course, operable first.
ade
New member
http://www.aquariumwatertesting.com/ref_kit.php
Matt posted this link, If you do anything at all with testing I would do this.
Matt posted this link, If you do anything at all with testing I would do this.
mandelbrot
New member
Definitely. I took a look at it and was interested. However, that is something I'd have to work on convincing the store to pay for. 
AIMFish
Premium Member
As Ade mentioned apples are great to use but you can get the media in your reactor to break down much better using a citrus fruit, I prefer clementines when they are in season. The acid produced by the fruit works much in the same way as CO2 and produces a much nicer smell.
I think Ade likes apples because they don't grow oranges where he's from :lol:
