Rowaphos can be pretty strong stuff if useing it for the first time. If the tank is already setup and running I would recomend useing less than half the recomended dose, as to not shock the system. I don't have the instructions here at work, I'll try and remember to look when I get home.
phosban reactor
- Thread starter maxdout
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Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Brent
Let's start over. I said algae removes P-N in a 1:16 ratio. You said...
I believe algae filters are commonly accepted as one of the most effecient methods of removing nitrates and are commonly used for just that purpose. DSBs are used for that purpose too but they seem to be falling out of favor.
You seem to be saying that most reef keepers are not using algae filters for nitrate export. If that is correct, then what are they using?
Personnaly, I used a combination of...
Algae Filter
Protien Skimmer
Remote DSB
I can't measure the nitrogen export from the DSB but I'm pretty sure the algae filter removes much more (100 fold) than the other two.
Let's start over. I said algae removes P-N in a 1:16 ratio. You said...
I believe algae filters are commonly accepted as one of the most effecient methods of removing nitrates and are commonly used for just that purpose. DSBs are used for that purpose too but they seem to be falling out of favor.
You seem to be saying that most reef keepers are not using algae filters for nitrate export. If that is correct, then what are they using?
Personnaly, I used a combination of...
Algae Filter
Protien Skimmer
Remote DSB
I can't measure the nitrogen export from the DSB but I'm pretty sure the algae filter removes much more (100 fold) than the other two.
CaptiveReefSystems
In Memoriam
Let me answer the question one at a time. Charles, fill the reactor half way. It will hold 200ML's. If you can, use RO/DI water to gently flush out the fines. You will see dark brown water exit the reactor at first, then it will clear up. You can now connect it to a small pump, I like the Hydor L25. Start off with a very slow trickle. After a few weeks you can then kick up the flow a bit, just until you see the ROWAphos start to move on the surface. If you start out slow, you will have no problems. I hope you are testing for Phosphates so you can see the change.
Brian, I have tested carbon and different foods, all dry and they all produce phosphate readings. Some more then others. Remember, phosphate is a inorganic salt and is present in most things we put into our aquariums.
I agree on the algae filtration method, the EcoWheel comes to mind, but you need a very large area to grow algae for it to do any good. That is why all the early algae turf scrubbers never made it big, because they had to be so big to work. That is one of the main reasons I see lots of aquariums that have become over grown with algae and have very low Nitrate and Phosphate levels. They already have a algae filter. It's covering the aquarium.
Brian, I have tested carbon and different foods, all dry and they all produce phosphate readings. Some more then others. Remember, phosphate is a inorganic salt and is present in most things we put into our aquariums.
I agree on the algae filtration method, the EcoWheel comes to mind, but you need a very large area to grow algae for it to do any good. That is why all the early algae turf scrubbers never made it big, because they had to be so big to work. That is one of the main reasons I see lots of aquariums that have become over grown with algae and have very low Nitrate and Phosphate levels. They already have a algae filter. It's covering the aquarium.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Bruce
When I say algae filter I mean macro algae filter, like chaeto in the sump, not a turf algae scrubber. Although, they do accomplish the same thing. Like plenums, the additional benefit turf scrubbers provide doesn't seem to justify the additional complexity.
I agree that it is difficult to limit the P input to the organic P compounds found in food. I think your point is that the ratio of available P:N is bound to tip to one side or the other.
Once an algae filter (chaeto, etc) is limited by one side or the other (not enough N or P for the 1:16 ratio) then other means must be used to bring the N or P to NSW levels.
The problem I see is that using phosphate sponge before algae filters have done all they can leaves nitrogen problems that can't be resolved with algae filters.
When I say algae filter I mean macro algae filter, like chaeto in the sump, not a turf algae scrubber. Although, they do accomplish the same thing. Like plenums, the additional benefit turf scrubbers provide doesn't seem to justify the additional complexity.
I agree that it is difficult to limit the P input to the organic P compounds found in food. I think your point is that the ratio of available P:N is bound to tip to one side or the other.
Once an algae filter (chaeto, etc) is limited by one side or the other (not enough N or P for the 1:16 ratio) then other means must be used to bring the N or P to NSW levels.
The problem I see is that using phosphate sponge before algae filters have done all they can leaves nitrogen problems that can't be resolved with algae filters.
This might not be such a big problem though in our systems. As I see it the bacterial reduction of the nitrogen portion of the equation, to unuseable compounds, will always leave the system heavy toward phosphate. The other problem, of which I'm guilty, is that most people tend not to think about phosphates untill problems start to occur. At this point the rock and sandbed if present are saturated. Now dealing with a barebottom tank that is running a phosphate remover from the start I can see running into the problems of being phosphate defficent and unable to grow algea effectively. I think I may have even seen a couple of threads of these typs of people haveing these problems a year or so ago when the BB thing was first hitting.
Personally I use both a phosphate remover and algea right now. I have both in my refugium, set us to that the water flows though the algea first then the rowaphos.
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