Phosphate Control

[shadowbearwv]

I've had my 75g up for about a year. The current parameters, Amm=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate=5ppm. Weekly Calcium tests have averaged about 480 without dosing and Magn has been in the mid 1300's. Alk hovers just around 4, I know on the low side. PH is running on average 8.2-8.3.

I have had hardly any hard coral or coraline algae growth. My phosphates are running very high, higher than my test can go. I have just recently started running PhosGuard(Seachem) in a filter back at the output from my overflow to the sump and haven't seen much change in the Phosphate level.

Would anyone recommend to start dosing Kalk to help in removing phosphates and/or any other recommendation would be great as well.

Just an FYI, I have a 28g Nano for about 3 months now and have more coraline algae growth. I'm feeding the same food in both tanks.

Any and all help appreciated.

Thanks

SB

 

[joet3580]

never really had that problem i would double check readings maybe testers bad

 

[nimrod]

might try adding chaeto to your sump. and check all your other readings.

 

[shadowbearwv]

Some added information that I forgot.

I'm doing 10g water changes weekly in the 75 g and 5g water changes weekly in the 28g.

I have Cheato in the refugium area of the sump.

Thanks

SB

 

[Jstdv8]

try phosban instead of phosguard. I had guard in my system for 5 days and never noticed a change at all. put in phosban and within 2 days it was 50% less. if you can get ahold of a phos reactor the kinda move the granuals around a bit so that all of them have a chance to get into teh water flow and it works even better. I mjust have mine sitting in front of a powerhead in a doubled up sack.

 

[shadowbearwv]

Thanks for the info!

Friday is my next test day for phosphate according to the directions of the Phosguard. If it hasn't going down I will switch to Phosban. Staying away from the reactor route as of right now but will probably have to end up getting one.

Thanks

SB

 

[DC_40gallon]

Your in the same boat as I am in our 40 breeder.

I'm not playing around anymore with this diatom an hair algae garbage. Same thing all params are great new t5 bulbs 25% rodi water change weekly with my own new unit with zero tds.

So I bought a phosban reactor and phosban and it's delivering today. Not messing around anymore.

 

[IslandCrow]

Alk hovers just around 4, I know on the low side.

Is that dkh or meq/L? If it's the latter, it's actually on the high side. If the former, it's quite low, and could certainly explain poor coral growth (in addition to the high phosphates).

As far as phosphate control, could I also ask what you're feeding and how much/how often? Frozen foods can be very high in phosphate, and it's always a good idea to rinse the food in tap or purified water before you feed it to the tank. A phosban reactor could certainly be a good idea (I've never used one personally). Even if you go that route, I'd continue working on finding and fixing the root problem, though.

 

[TeePee]

try phosban instead of phosguard. I had guard in my system for 5 days and never noticed a change at all. put in phosban and within 2 days it was 50% less. if you can get ahold of a phos reactor the kinda move the granuals around a bit so that all of them have a chance to get into teh water flow and it works even better. I mjust have mine sitting in front of a powerhead in a doubled up sack.

+1 to this. I just started up a phosban reactor on my tank. I really like how it tumbles the granules which would seem to improve the efficiency of the phosphate removal process.

 

[shadowbearwv]

Is that dkh or meq/L? If it's the latter, it's actually on the high side. If the former, it's quite low, and could certainly explain poor coral growth (in addition to the high phosphates).

As far as phosphate control, could I also ask what you're feeding and how much/how often? Frozen foods can be very high in phosphate, and it's always a good idea to rinse the food in tap or purified water before you feed it to the tank. A phosban reactor could certainly be a good idea (I've never used one personally). Even if you go that route, I'd continue working on finding and fixing the root problem, though.

The the alk I believe is measured in dkh, will have to confirm that from the test directions later.

As far as food, I alternate between reef chilli, reef nutrition, and a day off for the coral foods.

For fish and hard coral foods, I feed an assortment of the blister packed food, my own preperation, and Rods.

I rotate through these during the course of a week. I also feed my smaller tank the same except in smaller portions and haven't seen a problem.

The one thing I will have to say is I don't have an algae problem, which I don't believe is typical either. I do have a feeling were the phosphate is coming from since there is one big difference between the two tanks besides size.

SB

 

[rcorbitt]

I like Rowaphos better than Phosban. It's a little more expensive, but tends to work better in the short term.

A couple of things to consider: If you have Florida rock in your tank, it can leech phosphates all by itself. Second, your top off water may have more phosphate than you're expecting. I suggest you test it.

 

[IslandCrow]

Yeah, normally a phosphate problem leads to an algae problem. . .if not immediately, then after a short period of time. Anyway, all I can say on the feeding side is make sure you're pre-rinsing that frozen food, and don't do it on the coral foods. I'm a big advocate for feeding corals, but it's very easy to pollute the water with those micro foods. I probably wouldn't rinse the Rods food, since you'll lose all the micro plankton, and I never worried very much about rinsing my own preparations either, both for the same reason as the Rods food and because I didn't have to worry about it being packed with preservatives. Anyway, best of luck.

 

[shadowbearwv]

If you have Florida rock in your tank, it can leech phosphates all by itself. Second, your top off water may have more phosphate than you're expecting. I suggest you test it.

That's the major difference between the two tanks. The 75 has Florida rock, where the 28g has Pacific rock. I will also check the RO/DI water as well to make sure it isn't the problem. This isn't a new problem I'm guessing just never tested for it.

SB

 

[arredondojason]

my suggestion for lowering your PO4 would be to invest in a reactor and get some GFO from bulkreefsupply.com the stuff pulls PO4 like crazy.

 

[mandingCa]

huge phosphates and no algae?

get a 2nd test kit....or take to a store and have them test.