Phytoplankton Lighting

Andrew, you've got the idea ;)

Would it be a good idea to begin that 1.5 L culture in a total of one gallon of water and add medium and buffer as needed to maintain logarithmic growth as opposed to a different amount?

Just set up with sanitized SW and the f/2, set and forget for a week. The old KISS principle is best ;)

Are there simple ways to test pH and density that are not overly complicated and worth the risk if done right? Is this overly complicated to even consider? I'm not doing research. I just want to feed this stuff. Maybe handoff to someone that needs a start up, which would be done from my subcultures, right?

Like Sunny, I don't worry about pH ;) Well buffered SW and the usual culture routine will be sufficient :) BTW my culturing perspective is from maintaining phyto to feed to rots and pods to feed to larval fish...it was the fish that were the research subjects :D

And yes, to give someone a start up culture it is that nice clean subculture you want to be giving away.

What would be an appropriate setup to perform inoculation, sanitization, and transfers?

I just use a reasonably clean room away from my cultures for handling the subcultures and the initial 2L flask culture. At work, it was my office, at home my kitchen. stepping up from the 2l to the 5gal carboy is done right on the shelf of my culture set up...no point in lugging around full carboys since the that 2L flask is typically enough to get a strong enough start to overwhelm any likely contaminants.

Your culture set up looks good, though your right about the temp management troubles. Since your bubbling air into the cultures strongly (and the subcultures have the foam stoppers), you'll be fine with fans for good air exchange so long as what is coming in isn't too warm. An AC unit would be ideal for perfect temp control, but might not be needed pending room temps in your house.
 
Thanks billsreef and yea the bags look like the would be a pain to work with.

So I was reading, "Effect of high frequency of intermittent light of the growth and fatty acid profile of Isochrysis galbana". Some of the preliminary data referenced studies that showed blue light is favored by several diatoms and algaes. Nothing significant was discovered but they used LEDs, red, white, green, and blue to test growth rate, fatty acid profile, and cell weight. Blue did a little better at all of these. They also did on off cycle tests and I didn't pay much attention to the methods used because I cannot do that with fluorescents without burning my lamps up much faster. Not much changed if I remember correctly other that how much was spent on the electric bill.
 
I just go with full spectrum lamps...that way you don't have to worry about whether or not you have the needed light spectrum, since you have them all :D

With photo period, I find around 16 hours yields max growth, with longer not doing anything more than burning up more electric.
 
Billsreef what would I use to add N to F2 medium? I'm thinking NaNO3. I want to use filtered and sanitized aquarium water for the production cultures, is that a bad idea? I would just use a two 55 gallon barrels, a particle filter, and gravity, then add chlorine and use when needed. If I have problems with this water for phyto I plan on using it for copepod culture water instead. Still trying to figure out how I want to use the nutrients in this water.
 
There will be all the nutrients you need in the Guillards f/2 media, no extra N needed ;) Also you don't want to add the f/2 to the water till your ready to culture, as pre dosed water in storage will end up growing bacteria.
 
Oh, I've read that diatoms especially RL and TW are N limited in F2. I guess there other things to consider before that actually happens. I just see so many hobbyists having trouble with these two using F2 I don't want to follow in their footsteps, for the sake of simplicity. Do you think that cutting corners may be more to blame than inadequate nutrients?
 
With diatoms it is more likely Silicate that is limiting. You can get Giullards f/2 with added Si for those ;)
 
Thank you, for all of the help. Do you think carboys with spigots would be a lot more likely to have contamination problems? I was also thinking that with those I could experiment with running a manual short-term continuous culture. It would also make it easier to feed.
 
The spigots take a bit more time and effort to sanitize, but not a crazy amount more. As to whether or not the extra is worth it, depends on how fast your going through the culture. Using plastic carboys, I just pick them up and pour into a large plastic picture, which I then use to carry over to my rots for feeding. That picture doesn't go back the phyto culture till after it's been cleaned ;)
 
True, I think the effort spent sanitizing them would be worth the ease of use. Have you ever heard of anyone using something like white vinegar to lower pH rather than using a buffer to balance chemical interactions? Do you think using an air dryer inline on the air to the culture vessel would help keep the pH down, in high humidity say above 50%? I guess that would depend on what the pH is inside the culture.

Anyway, what do you recommend to use as a buffer?
 
Regular old SW buffer like that sold for fish tanks. However, for the typical life of a culture, a good SW mix that is already well buffered is sufficient. I don't bother worrying about pH of the culture more than that ;)
 

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