(Pics) Tank stand design looking for feedback .....

Drunes

New member
Well I have taken some pictures of the start of this project last weekend and through out the week it has progressed nicely I am almost to adding the electricals.

Keeping in mind this is a 180 R/R AGA Tank. I have some concerns. I used 4 X 4 supports and built this thing like a tank (pun intended).

Anyone see any concerns? The 2X4 cap is level though the sides sit a little lower than the lenght. I set and screwed the 2x4's botton and top into the 4x4's with 2 1/2 dry wall screws.

Tank room at the start --

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Framing up and doors in, Not alot of choices on the door it was either here or the tank under heating vents --

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View of framing from inside the Tank Room.

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Framing Stand and wall fishished --

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The AGA tank has plastic supports X2 in the mid section of the tank that do not end up level with the outside the the frame so I have not built load bearing points in the center. The Center Section is designed to provide additional stability.

Thoughts?
 
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It is going to get brace boards on the bottom of the stand, the outside will be covered with 1/2 oak with three cabinet doors on the fish room side, 1/2 inch dry wall on the other side. I am hoping that will facilitate the horizontal bracing. The cabinet floor should eliminate and chance of outward movement.

I took some additional photos. Will share them shortly.
 
Not sure I can get it any more level than this.

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Beside the visible braces each 4x4 was attached at the bottom and top like so.

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View from the outside

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Moved the big things in before the wall went up, also planning a double sink in the area the kitched pipes just above this location.

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This is the inside of 100Gallon Rubbermaid most if not all will recognize. The coral skeleton has been with me since 1990 when I was in the UK; before it became illegal to remove pieces this size. It is not dense just large and weighs in at about 70 lbs. It has not been in a tank for years. For one it will barely fit widthwise into a 120 AGA and it has travelled so much I just dont want to risk a contaminate that could have been entered into it that may be impossible to clean because of its size.

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9394258#post9394258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Grace's Dad
Good start.
How tall did you make the stand?
From the pictures it looks about knee high.

It is 28" high. and the tank is about 25" high should be the right size to be able to sit and look into the tank with comfort. I will spend more time sitting in front than I will standing. =D
 
drunes, you'll get plenty of support and strength and stability with 1/4" oak


won't that save you a ton of money over 1/2"?
 
I would not say the 1/4" is that much Cheaper than 1/2" oak..

Plus if he is trying to match the Drywall 1/2" he would spend more money buying a cheap 1/4" board to help level out to the 1/2"..
 
Not really that much more and I agree with Im Lon 2 it would look miss matched 1/2" is better dry wall.
 
Hey Drunes if I might ask you, Where did you get the rubbermaid stock tanks and how much?? I'll be needing 1 of them in about a month.
 
Charlie's in Wentzville they were about $74 each. They have about 35 of them. The also have a boat load of 50's, 70's, some 150's and a few 300's. =D
 
so are you putting that huge rock in the tank or are you still too worried about contamination?

thats a sweet rock
 
Log of Progress

Log of Progress

Well I got around to some additional photos of the progress

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Sink is in

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Lower view of the tank stand in the wall.

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Capped the top of the stand to prevent any future flex

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Test fitting the 180 in place

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Power wall all GFI 5 on the wall 2 side by sides on the right side of the tank each on individual lines.

I will keep everyone posted.
 
Re: (Pics) Tank stand design looking for feedback .....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9393814#post9393814 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Drunes


Anyone see any concerns? The 2X4 cap is level though the sides sit a little lower than the lenght. I set and screwed the 2x4's botton and top into the 4x4's with 2 1/2 dry wall screws.

Thoughts?

I wish I had noticed this before. I just reread your thread and I do see a concern here, I can't believe I didn't catch it before now. Dry Wall screws might NOT have been your best choice here. It is JMHO that you should have went with Wood screws or even nails. Nails being the first choice. A screw does not have the sheer strength when set sideways (Horizontally) that a Nail has. If it's been use in and upward or downward situation( Vertically) then that's not that big of a deal. However Dry Wall screws are a much weaker screw, there not hardened, there only meant to hold minimal weight loads at best ( which is why you see so many used to hold up one single piece of dry wall rather than say 8 of them you'll find 14 to 16 per one sheet). They tend to snap rather easily compared to a wood screw. A Nail however will bend before it ever snapped and is a much stronger product. I noticed that you used brackets too which is a plus but I would be concered where they are placing the pressure at on the screws, in the right place and it could snap off the heads of the weaker Dry Wall screws. Just thought I'd share my concern with using Dry wall Screws. Other than that, I think your tank build is AWESOME MAN!!
 
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