Planning next tank. Suggestions?

Let's say I go with the 93 "cube" from MarineLand, 30"x30"x24". Does anyone know whether it comes with the standpipe and return line when ordered with the "corner-flo" option? That option adds $110 to the price and I don't think it's worth it otherwise.

Supposing I get elect to get some holes drilled: where, how many, and how big? I don't need a whole lot of flow, just enough for a skimmer and separate refugium: I think powerheads are the most efficient way to provide in-tank circulation. Anthony Calfo suggests using as long of an overflow as possible. How about two holes, 1.5" bulkheads, at the top along the back wall, with a 30"x4" piece of glass siliconed at a 30 degree angle (to the back wall) providing the surface skimming? Or would that look ridiculous? :strange: (For reference, I like the top-down view and am hoping to run open-top, or at most a fine screen.)
 
It should come with the standpipe and return.

I don't think Elmer's will drill holes any longer. You can specify holes as a special order from marineland. No idea of cost though.
 
I would drill more holes if i had it to do over again. 3 drains minimum, and probably 2 returns. I would spend more time and money on plumbing and sump, since it needs to be really reliable, quiet, and easy to maintain.
I would also drill a lot more holes in my rock to make for easier frag placement.
 
Thanks for the tip, Craig!

@bnmir: Would you drill the holes yourself? I'm pretty nervous about drilling glass, especially if I just spent $410 on it. Elmer's said they could get MarineLand to drill the tank at the factory (and hence retain the warranty), but couldn't say how much it would cost (presumably it depends on the number of holes). Anyone done this recently?

Is anyone using the glass-holes.com overflow, or have an opinion about it?
 
cdalmost said:
Thanks for the tip, Craig!

@bnmir: Would you drill the holes yourself? I'm pretty nervous about drilling glass, especially if I just spent $410 on it. Elmer's said they could get MarineLand to drill the tank at the factory (and hence retain the warranty), but couldn't say how much it would cost (presumably it depends on the number of holes). Anyone done this recently?

Is anyone using the glass-holes.com overflow, or have an opinion about it?
Click to expand...

I've bought and used their bulkheads before...definitely worthwhile. Here are a few of my thoughts about overflows:

I bought my Marineland 60 (2'x2'x2') with the overflow weir (which did include the bulkheads and locline return) already pre-installed. The holes are drilled in the back, not in the bottom of the tank. I don't really have a problem with this, as it allows for the overflow to be very thin, hence taking up much less space in the tank. One of the problems I have been having is since it is in the middle, and not in a corner, and is well lit by my lamp, I grow a lot of algae in the overflow, and around the drain pipe. This would be easy to fix by some kind of non-opaque cover to prevent light from getting in there. Assuming you overflow box will also be well lit, this may be something to think about.

I have a VERY slow flow (probably about 100gph) from my tank to my sump. I don't need any more than this, in my opinion/experience. Microbubble issues are non-existant, the pump pulls less current, the skimmer still gets in contact with all the system's water, and I don't have to worry about the drain (except with the afore-mentioned algae problem) not being able to handle my otherwise pathetic flow rate. The chiller, on a separate loop from the sump, is able to keep up also with the temperature demands of the tank, so I can say that this system has worked perfectly for the 6 months I've been running this particular tank. I honestly can't think of a benefit for adding more umph to the return, except that it adds flow to the tank...which as you stated, your powerheads will be doing anyway. The slow flow also keeps the tank very quiet. If I had designed my flow into the sump without a 2 foot straight vertical drop in it, you would never hear anything on my tank...as it is, it's more quiet than most tanks I've been around. This is a huge plus for me as it sits in my livingroom.
 
cloakerpoked said:
I never liked the 5 foot 120's...dunno why, just felt like the 4x2x2 is such a nicer footprint for working with than an elongated 90. You should see me with sticks before you go making comments like that too...I can hit anything you can throw at me (and many things you couldn't..)
Click to expand...

For some reason I thought that was 4ft 120. My bad, I posted a little too hastily. I might take you up on that, I think I might enjoy throwing stuff at you..:frog: :lmao:
 
aquaworld drilled my tank, but having seen it done, i might consider doing it myself if i had good equipment available.
 
@NaClH2Opgh: Looks like a great deal! But the whole point of this thread has been to talk me out of a 18" wide tank. :lmao:

@bnmir: Did you buy the tank through aquaworld too, or did you bring it in? Presumably in the latter case they didn't guarantee it, did they?

Assuming a killer deal doesn't pop up on craigslist in the next two months, I'm leaning towards the "93 cube". I'll see how much MarineLand will charge to drill holes for two 1.5" drains and two 0.75" returns in the back of the tank at the top (with the intention of using the glass-holes.com overflow and loc-line returns). If that's too much (what would be reasonable, btw?) then I'll get the corner-flo unit.

Regarding a stand, I want something taller than 28", so the MarineLand stand is out. I'll probably build something with my Dad. The question is, how to design it to fit through a 29" wide door frame? A 4x4 wood skeleton with plywood paneling is probably the route we'll take. I could leave the bottom frame and two sides panels off (leaving a U-shape) and then do a little dance to get through the door, but when I screw it together will that be solid enough? Do the side panels have to be glued to ensure the stand won't collapse due to shear forces?
 
cdalmost said:
@NaClH2Opgh: Looks like a great deal! But the whole point of this thread has been to talk me out of a 18" wide tank. :lmao:

@bnmir: Did you buy the tank through aquaworld too, or did you bring it in? Presumably in the latter case they didn't guarantee it, did they?

Assuming a killer deal doesn't pop up on craigslist in the next two months, I'm leaning towards the "93 cube". I'll see how much MarineLand will charge to drill holes for two 1.5" drains and two 0.75" returns in the back of the tank at the top (with the intention of using the glass-holes.com overflow and loc-line returns). If that's too much (what would be reasonable, btw?) then I'll get the corner-flo unit.

Regarding a stand, I want something taller than 28", so the MarineLand stand is out. I'll probably build something with my Dad. The question is, how to design it to fit through a 29" wide door frame? A 4x4 wood skeleton with plywood paneling is probably the route we'll take. I could leave the bottom frame and two sides panels off (leaving a U-shape) and then do a little dance to get through the door, but when I screw it together will that be solid enough? Do the side panels have to be glued to ensure the stand won't collapse due to shear forces?
Click to expand...

LOL, I know, I jumped the gun and never read the dimensions and thought it was a 48" 120. I have something similar to the GB overflow. I already had two 2" holes drilled and the bulkheads so I got Keith (DEERE G) in Ohio to build me a box to my specs. He did an excellent job. If I didn't have the holes drilled and bulkheads already I would have went that
route.

I think most places charge around $25 a hole.
 
I thought Aquaworld quit drilling tanks...but I could be wrong on that. It's very easy to drill a tank yourself. I've done it quite a few times without any disasters. Would actually be a great workshop to do at Elmers sometime since it's something a lot of people would be interested in I'd think. Just a thought.

As for the stand...there are a few things you want to consider. The first is the vertical load. There's no need to use 4x4's, as 2x4's would be more than sufficient to support it. Depending on how large your span is, that will determine whether you use 2x4's or 2x6's for horizontal pieces. Assuming you have a single door, and only support at the corners, I'd be safe and go with the 2x6's. The plywood will give it strength and keep the corners rigid. You could also mitre 45 degree corner braces to make the plywood veneer strictly cosmetic. The stand I built for my tank is 30" from front to back, and 36" across, as well as 36" high. If you check out my build thread, you can see how it is all put together. I'm positive something like what I did would be strong enough for a car, so an extra 33 gallons of saltwater would be no problem at all. I kneel on the stand when I maintain the tank sometimes, and at 8 pounds a gallon, that just about works out to be the difference, especially when I'm in hibernation mode for the winter :).
 
cloakerpoked said:
The stand I built for my tank is 30" from front to back, and 36" across, as well as 36" high. If you check out my build thread, you can see how it is all put together.
Click to expand...

How did you get the stand through internal door frames in your house? I measured and my apartment door is 34" but my bedroom door is only 29"!

Anyways, I've been talking with my family, and we've come to the conclusion that the 60 cube is probably the right choice. It'll be a little less tank to haul out when I leave in a few years, and I won't have to muck around with a huge stand that won't fit through the door.

Okay, so:
- 60 cube (24"x24"x24") with 700 gph overflow from glass-holes.com OR the corner-flo unit, depending on the cost of drilling
- 250W metal halide with high quality reflector and "selectable" 250/400W ballast
- homemade stand, probably ~36" tall, with room for a 20 gallon tank (24"x12"x16") as a sump, which will be partitioned and house a skimmer along the lines of an Octopus NWB-110.
- MP-40w for circulation, and a return pump rated for about 400 gph at 5'. Any suggestions on that?

What do people think about a sump with three partitions, including a small refugium in the middle partition (i.e. after the skimmer and before the return pump)? I like the separate tank that cloakerpoked has going on, but I'm not sure I'll have enough room in a narrower stand.
 
On a 2 foot tank, an MP-40 will be way too much current, IMO. Unless you're trying to water your carpet.

Getting the stand through the door almost required my family removing the door jambs. I wasn't home at the time...but they figured it out somehow. The problem was the trim on the top and bottom. I had built it to be 30" front to back, since the cube look was going to be accomplished by having the tank set up away from the back wall approximately 6 inches. That was all well and good, but I almost didn't get it out of the basement where I built it, or into the house. It's possible that it will never leave this house in one piece :)

Elmers website has the tank listed for $290 with the overflow weir, and $219 without. http://op5.triadinet.com/elmers/nlc...ion|search|searchfor|60C Tank|searchby|bydesc
Given the cost to drill the tank, buy an overflow box, locline, and bulkheads, I think the $70 is worth the expense. At least call Seahorse first before getting the tank at Elmers though, as I got mine for a bit less than $290. I know she felt bad because they had to order the tank, and mine took about 2 weeks to get there, so she probably knocked some off the price, but even before that I feel like I was quoted a price less then $290, so it would be worth at least checking into. Either way, the tank itself isn't going to break the bank. If you ever want to come over to look at it set up here, you're welcome to...just shoot me a PM.
 
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