Plenums and the wasting "option"

When I roughed out the manifold I wound up making it oversized, but it shrunk a lot when I really pounded the pvc, so I might have room to get the four on each end into a 3/4", take those over the top at each end in 1" pipe, and do similar things dividing the middle six into two groups. I'll meet at the back in 1 1/4" maybe and head down from there in 2". The drain pipe to the sink in the basement is 2" already, so we're good to go there.

That is, if I'm right that I have 14 rows. Half of the manifold is still in pieces after having been drilled. But, something like that'll work. Sucks having all those awful pvc pipes all over the place, but what are you going to do? Maybe I'll epoxy some xenia to them.
 
Andy, those 1/2" PVC fittings have a "socket depth" of 3/4". You can cut 1/2" off of each one and still have a good joint for these purposes. With two fittings facing each other, this reduces your distance ( or height ) by 1". This is how I built my entire plenum by the way. One inch can be HUGE in many cases. :idea:

If you check with Paul at www.OceansMotions.com, he can supply you with gray PVC in any size, including fittings, valves, etc. for slightly higher than normal cost. This stuff is identical to std. PVC, and is very pleasing to the eye, inside the tank ( and elsewhere for that matter ). :D :D

> barryhc :beachbum:
 
barryhc said:
Andy, those 1/2" PVC fittings have a "socket depth" of 3/4". You can cut 1/2" off of each one and still have a good joint for these purposes. With two fittings facing each other, this reduces your distance ( or height ) by 1". This is how I built my entire plenum by the way. One inch can be HUGE in many cases. :idea:

By the way, for anyone who is using egg crate over their plenum, the "rings" that are cut-off, as described above, can be used as additional supports for the egg crate, in longer sections of the PVC pipe, by simply slipping them over the pipe, to wherever you wish.

This helps to eliminate any concerns about "support" for the "rockwork". Cutting the tees shorter, also allows for much tighter "packing" of the "feeder tubes", if that is what you want. Again, I used this method on my own plenum. :idea:

> barryhc :beachbum:
 
Okay, so barryhc, check my math here. Now that you've talked me out of the weed control fabric, I still need to figure out how to get a good flow. Currently, I have 412 3/32" holes. I'm having a few issues on piping out, but even assuming I can get the manifold plumbed out to a 2" draw tube, I still have way too many holes.

So, if I silicone up half of them that put me down to 206 holes. That puts me in the good range with a 2" draw tube, yes?

Here's my math: the good balancing range for a 2" draw = 229.97 (61 from the 1" column x 3.77). So 206 is right on. Yeah?

Thanks!

Andy
 
I have an idea on my plumbing issues to run by you. If I change from one large manifold to four small manifolds running parallel, I can probably space them out to fit plumbing each of the sets. Is it feasible to then plumb each of the smaller manifolds to one large 2" draw tube?

Thanks!
 
Andy, your math is fine, are you trying to plumb 4 into 1, inside the tank, or outside the tank?

> barryhc :beachbum: :thumbsup:
 
Four separate manifolds inside the tank (1/2"). Four 3/4" inch draw tubes, changing to four 1" draws to go up and over. The four 1" pipes change to 1 2" pipe behind the tank. Incidently, this will reduce the number of holes I have slightly, so all to the good. Maybe I can move down to a 1 1/2" draw tube behind the tank?
 
"Umm said:
Four separate manifolds inside the tank (1/2"). Four 3/4" inch draw tubes, changing to four 1" draws to go up and over. The four 1" pipes change to 1 2" pipe behind the tank. Incidently, this will reduce the number of holes I have slightly, so all to the good. Maybe I can move down to a 1 1/2" draw tube behind the tank?

I assume that this represents 4 seperate "plenums" made of 1/2" each of which connects to a 3/4" horizontal "mini-manifold" which in turn feeds a 1" "draw-tube". Four of these at the back of the tank, whether or not they are attached at the front.

In any case, if you are bringing (4) 1/2" tubes, each with 14-15 holes, I assume ( after "siliconing" half the holes ), then they need to be piped individually into a 3/4" "collection-manifold", and that 3/4" tube is good to tee up from, and over the top.

There would be 4 of these, and into a 1 1/2" drain. This would be for "adequate balancing". From the chart, the 1 1/2" drain will accomodate 92 x 2.14 = (197) 3/32" holes "adequately".

For "good balancing" with your approx. 200 holes, you would need to pipe the individual 1/2" tubes into (4) 1" "collection manifolds, with 1" draw tubes up over the top, then all 4 into a single 2" manifold, and on to the 2" drain. ( You could also bring 2 each of the draw tubes into a 1 1/2" intermediate tube, and then two of these, into your 2" drain ) :idea:

I hope I've followed your intentions correctly, let me know.

> barryhc :beachbum: :thumbsup:
 
So, you're good to go Andy, on the "flow". Get going on that aquascaping, and enjoy!

I can't wait to see your system "up and running"!

> barryhc :beachbum: :thumbsup:
 
SaltyJoe, I have an idea about the volume control system that you originated, and that "we" worked on a bit.

I liked the idea ( a lot ), from the "get-go", but I explained that I had concerns for my particular application, because the "flow" slows down, in a linear fashion, which reduces flow rate, and this caused me some concern.

Here is my thought on this and please critique or correct me if I am somehow "off-base".

The first functionality of your volume control idea, was that there would not be any potential for "overflow", because of the external "water-column" having to "level" with the internal tank "level", right?

Then we got to the volume adjustment, by way of a smaller tube put down into the external water volume pipe, to restrict or modify volume, which I was kind of "tickled" about.

So, here is my idea: If we were to limit the top of the volume tube to a height that was well below the height of the tanks' water level ( even 2 to 4 feet below ), we would lose the "non-overflow" feature, unless, we then ran a very small tube which is sealed to the top of the "volume tube", and extends "up" higher than the tank water level.

This small tube would still eliminate any overflow potential, and allow simple volume control, but it would also cause "flow" to be "quite high" until the water level in the "external collector" reached the height of the small tube, and then it would still fill the small tube in a very short period of time, and prevent "slow-flow" thru the "wasting plumbing".

The small dia. of this tube ( say, .125" I.D. )would also reduce the surface area, such that the carbon canister could also be eliminated.

The small tube could be housed inside some larger PVC just for protection, and a carbon "destinker" at the top could still be included if deemed necessary.

What think Ye? > barryhc :beachbum:
 
Joe, the 1/8" I.D., might be a little small, but the water flow is already being restricted by the gravel. So, 1/4" might work. A litttle test will tell the story, I don't think the I.D. will need to be very large to accomodate the airflow.

Even if the small tube did fill slowly ( which I doubt ), the volume in the tube would be miniscule, and relatively unimportant to the "draw".

We would need to seal any "volume adjustment tube", to the collection tube, to avoid leakage.

How's that? > barryhc :beachbum:
 
barry hc:that is overkill and unecessary...if you are using a plenum grid....and 1/16th may be too small of a hole....just my 2cents.........
 
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