plumbing a chiller... will this work?

[phatphisher]

i have a 1/5 in-line chiller and would like to plumb it without using another pump or affect my return pump's head pressure. what i have: 1/5 hp jbj in-line chiller, mag 7 return pump using internally, acrylic sump. what i have in mind:

1. install a hose barb fitting on the suction port of the mag 7.

2. drill 2 holes on one of the walls of the sump and same side of where my chiller will be. making sure both holes are sumberged during lowest water level of normal tank operation.

3. install 2 thread x thread bulkeads. install hose barb fittings on both ends of one of the bulkhead (inside and outside of sump).

4. install another hose barb fitting on the other out of the sump side of the bulkhead. install a strainer on the other end.

6. using vinyl tubing, connect the OUT port of the chiller to the suction port of the return pump via hose barbs.

7. using more vinly tubing, connect the IN port of the chiller to the other bulkead with the strainer.

i'm going to add ball valves somewhere in the line just in case i need to remove the chiller.

to also allow flow control to the chiller, i might install a T fitting on the suction port of the return pump. i can use a ball valve to reduce or increas flow to the chiller.

will this work? my thinking is by keeping all the additional fittings and plumbing on the sucktion side of the pump, this should not affect the head pressure at all. am i correct?

 

[NicoleC]

Nope, you can't defy physics. The chiller will still cause significant head loss if you pull water through the chiller instead of push it. Plus, by contricting the inlet of the pump, you will be shortening the pump's life.

You only option for pumpless is a drop-in chiller, providing you have enough flow past the coil, or rig up a gravity feed for it.

 

[phatphisher]

party pooper . i knew i missed something when i fell asleep during physics class. thanks nicole.

 

[Mchava]

just put a t on the return line of the pump with a valve to regulate the water going to the chiller. That is how I have mine set up. I see verry little head loss if at that. From reading what you plan on doing its seem like your making it harder on your self and you are going to waste a lot of money on the barb fitting. Save the money and just install it with the return pump. If you loose alot of head preasure just install a bigger return pump, just a thought.
Mario

 

[phatphisher]

where do u have the chiller's return (OUT) going: back to the sump or direct to the tank?

 

[energy_crisis]

i would think into the sump for less head loss

 

[Yinger]

what most do is plumb the return to the chiller then from the chiller to the main display. If your worried about head loss, i'd recommend upgrading the pump like Mario said, maybe try an eheim 1260 or 1262. 1260 should be good though. what size tank?

 

[Mchava]

actualy I would plub it back to the sump. One big reason for not plubing back to the main display is BACK SYPHON AND FLOODED FLOORS. If you do this make sure you have a check valve or a syphon brake from the main display. Is just like having a second return and will dump all that water if there is no way to stop it.

 

[JenDub]

What about feeding it from the overflow drain? I think DaveB has a horseshoe in his drain/overflow that has Tee's for his ca reactor, chiller etc

 

[Yinger]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7612301#post7612301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mchava
actualy I would plub it back to the sump. One big reason for not plubing back to the main display is BACK SYPHON AND FLOODED FLOORS. If you do this make sure you have a check valve or a syphon brake from the main display. Is just like having a second return and will dump all that water if there is no way to stop it.

Would you need two pumps if you plumb it back into the sump? How did you plumb yours mario? I'm not sure if i understand how the T works. Do you have any pics?

 

[Mchava]

what I did was installed the t right afther the output. Since water will find the easiest way out its easier to flow horizontal then vertical. Now from the T you want to run a line to the chillers input. Then just put another line from the output into the sump. let me see if I can find a picture of how I have it set up.

 

[Fmellish]

I did this, and it seems to work well.

However I was forced to install a dedicated pump for it. It simply took too much flow away from my return.

Josh

 

[NicoleC]

Forget the T's and install Y's instead anywhere you split. There's a pretty sizeable difference in flow loss with the Y's instead. And no 90 degree elbows where a curve or standard 135 degree bend will do.