Plumbing bulkhead question???

[MCary]

Well, I'm going to set up my 240 and I hope not to repeat the problems I had with the 150.

Would you recommend schedule 80 bulkheads? I have had a heck of a time with S 40 bulkheads either cracking or having the nut spring back while tightening. I've also had a time with bulkheads leaking.

Would I need to buy new hole saws? I see the S80 Bulkheads use holes that are 1/4" larger. But there is always play in the holes I've drilled for S40.

Would siliconing the bulkhead in stop most leaks and allow me to use less torque when tightening the bulkheads?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[spineshank385]

use less torque?

you shouldnt need much torque at all with bulkheads. If the bulkhead is snug against the glass (no more, no less), you shouldnt have a problem.

When you overtighten bulkheads, you'll have problems.

 

[BlueCorn]

You also need to make sure that the gasket is between the tank and the flange, (not on the nut side).

If the surface is smooth and clean and the gasket on the right side it should only need to be about 1/2 turn past finger tight to get a good seal.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hayward makes good bulkheads... a lot of the stuff aquatic eco has is pure garbage, some of it is ok. I suggest ordering 1 of each type in each size you need and going from there. US PLastics and Savko also have decent stuff...

As mentioned you want to onlyu go maybe 1/2 turn past hand tight. A slight dab of silicone grease on the gasket will help, but it will also alow you to turn it much tigher. YOU MUST be carefull and not distort the gasket by overtightening.

Once your plumbing is in place, it should be supported so that the stress can not be transfered to the bulkheads. I see very few people take this IMPORTANT step. Pipe hangers, velcor straps... use your imagination.