This is kind of the issue the other guy was having because he wanted to utilize a bean animal overflow. If I remember right that's why he had a sump directly below his tank and then had that sump connected to another sump via the pipes put into the concrete. If your worried about some stagnant water in a emergency drain pipe, make sure the pipes have a little grade to them and put in a t that is plugged on one side so you can unscrew the plug or valve it to be able to open the valve so you could drain any stagnant water in the emergency drain pipe.
plumbing under concrete
- Thread starter gguertin
- Start date
scottwhitson
New member
It will work. I have a friend that did basically the same thing except his pipes do not run under the concrete they run along side a wall and into a sump room about 15 feet to the side of the display. His tank has been running for 3+ years with this setup. I am setting up a 600 gallon tank and it is in the basement and I did put my pipes under the concrete. I rented a concrete saw and a electric jack hammer to do the demo. We had concrete dust everywhere but we were remodeling the basement anyway so it wasn't that big of a deal. Good luck.
miatawnt2b
New member
Madean is right. You better be sure you don't have a post tension slab there or you will being deep trouble when you cut the cable inside the concrete.
bigfish14
New member
As a construction management major I can give you a few helpful hints and suggestions. Assuming this is a basement, the slap is probably no more than 4 or 5 inches thick. Depending on where you live, there could be all sorts of things in your slab. If you live in a place where earthquakes are common, there is bound to be rebar and other structural support in the concrete. If you live in a place that gets a decent amount of rain, there is probably some sort of vapor barrier in the concrete. This prevents water from seaping up through the concrete and into the basement. It isn't used often because drainage is getting better and better, but those are definitely a few things to look out for. I would have an inspector or contractor take a look and let you know, so you can be sure. Every house is built a little differently. Let's say you get the go ahead to cut the concrete, as others have mentioned, there will be a substantial amount of dust. If you are not making a very large cut then the dust is controllable. However, large cuts create a lot of dust because the concrete is actually being pulverized unlike cutting wood. It can certainly be done and has been done before, just make sure you plan everything out. First things first, get a professional to take a look at the concrete you'll be cutting.
That is very interesting and I can't picture how this would look. Can you give more info on how the 3 drain go to 1? The pipe size change and locations of them them going to the single drain. Also would the single need to have clean outs and a pitch to it.
Thanks
I've worked with concrete both inside the house and outside. First and foremost do not use a dry saw indoors. Like some people have said the dust is incredible, I've installed a couple patios and use a chop saw with a mason blade to cut the pavers. After fifteen minutes of cutting pavers the outside looks like a fog rolled in. Fifteen minutes of that in your basement and you would not be able to see your own hand. I finished my basement last year and I had to cut a trench for a bathroom that I put in and I rented a wet saw. There is no dust but you will have to line your walls with plastic because the spray of water and cement goes everywhere. Also get the best pair of ear protection you can find because the noise is deafening. Like some other poster mentioned you floor slab should only be 4-5 inches thick. I dug a trench 15’ long and it took me half a day because you saw two lines parallel to each other and then you have to use a sledge hammer to break the concrete in the middle. I suggest you hire someone to do the job, unless your use to swinging a 15 lbs sledge hammer and hauling concrete it's worth the money.
SGT_York
New member
previous discussion http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2269426&highlight=balancing+pipes
assuming bean setup
"Inverted siphon" is plumbing that pushes water up into the final sump AKA reverse siphon.
1.5" emergency that expands to 3" pipe and meets the durso pipe. The higher you place the junction the better as the inverted siphon will require pressure to fill the downline sump. You don't want the water level above the first junction to avoid stagnant water in the emergency line, the water woun't be stagnant after the durso line. the junction of the siphon line needs to be below the water line in the durso/emergency line for the siphon to work (conservatively). I would use 45 degree T's in the 3" diameter pipe with 45 elbows on the durso and siphon lines.
the disadvantage in this setup over a two sump is no trap for snails, fish or detrius that get sucked down, hopefully the bean has a good screen anyway for the livestock but the detrius will continue to build up in the horizontal run and will need a flush to prevent high phosphates. A T and a ball valve directly into the maintenance drain would be a great option you could do all the water changes that way.
A two sump setup would be advisiable if there is room. just like a standard sump but with a gravity overflow with ~9" of height to spare flow and friction loss dependent. that will leave plenty of space for the inverted siphon and give you a great area to remove particulates.
Cleanouts will need to be planned according to the setup however they present leak risks, pitch would be great but you are limited in height difference by the slab and would not want to go down more than a few inches to avoid slab damage. If was planning a cleanout I'd use a sump (like a bucket below the waterflow) to capture most of the detrius in one location and just pump that out.
worse option is balanced pumps but that has other major issues.
I thought about doing this at my last home but ended up going with a smaller fuge, limited livestock, and GFO to keep phosphates down. You can still fit a lot of stuff under a 180G, just plumbing a drain alone would give you many benefits without the hassle and risk with a remote sump.
Also don't try and go under supporting walls!!!
assuming bean setup
"Inverted siphon" is plumbing that pushes water up into the final sump AKA reverse siphon.
1.5" emergency that expands to 3" pipe and meets the durso pipe. The higher you place the junction the better as the inverted siphon will require pressure to fill the downline sump. You don't want the water level above the first junction to avoid stagnant water in the emergency line, the water woun't be stagnant after the durso line. the junction of the siphon line needs to be below the water line in the durso/emergency line for the siphon to work (conservatively). I would use 45 degree T's in the 3" diameter pipe with 45 elbows on the durso and siphon lines.
the disadvantage in this setup over a two sump is no trap for snails, fish or detrius that get sucked down, hopefully the bean has a good screen anyway for the livestock but the detrius will continue to build up in the horizontal run and will need a flush to prevent high phosphates. A T and a ball valve directly into the maintenance drain would be a great option you could do all the water changes that way.
A two sump setup would be advisiable if there is room. just like a standard sump but with a gravity overflow with ~9" of height to spare flow and friction loss dependent. that will leave plenty of space for the inverted siphon and give you a great area to remove particulates.
Cleanouts will need to be planned according to the setup however they present leak risks, pitch would be great but you are limited in height difference by the slab and would not want to go down more than a few inches to avoid slab damage. If was planning a cleanout I'd use a sump (like a bucket below the waterflow) to capture most of the detrius in one location and just pump that out.
worse option is balanced pumps but that has other major issues.
I thought about doing this at my last home but ended up going with a smaller fuge, limited livestock, and GFO to keep phosphates down. You can still fit a lot of stuff under a 180G, just plumbing a drain alone would give you many benefits without the hassle and risk with a remote sump.
Also don't try and go under supporting walls!!!
Last edited:
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
a stihl, husqvarna, or hitachi will work quite fine too...other then the mess..
i agree, as a contractor i have no problems making a mess at someone elses house, personally hate making one in my own house....just one more thing i have to clean up...
Jacob Martensen
New member
Having moved plumbing under concrete before I have a few suggesitons. 1. Turn off your furnace and AC before you start! This will keep your furnace from blowing dust throughout every inch of your house like I did. Wow was my wife hacked off. 2. Run the concrete saw with water, easier on the saw, blade and very little dust. Wrap 2x4s with towels or old blankets and put on the sides of the trench. It will help cut the water mess and cleanup time by keeping the water contained.
If someone knows the titles of the other threads please let me know, i would like to read them. I want to do this at my house with about a 15 ft run under the concrete.
Good luck and I am looking forward to pictures throughout the process.
If someone knows the titles of the other threads please let me know, i would like to read them. I want to do this at my house with about a 15 ft run under the concrete.
Good luck and I am looking forward to pictures throughout the process.
