Possible new treatment for Ich

jgljr

In Memoriam
About a week ago purchase a green bubble anemone and I made a stupid error while adding it to my tank. I accidentally allowed the water in the bag to flow into the tank while trying to remove the anemone from the bag. The next morning my purple tang was covered with ich white spots. Obviously the water in the bag was loaded with ich tomites. My powder blue tang and foxface also as a number of white spots on them, but no where near as bad as the purple tang.

When I saw the Purple Tangs covered with ich spots I proceeded to look up possible treatment on the internet, the prognosis didn’t look good. Treating the whole tank with copper or formalin, was sure death for my coral. Getting the fish out of the tank and quarantining them was going to nearly impossible with the design of my tank and the live rock layout would require having to tear it all down. I started resigning myself to loosing all the fish, which from what I read was going to happen; as the ich went though it life cycle, re-hatching a new batch of tomonts and eventually attacking and killing all the fish.

Then an idea came to mind. I remembered on several occasions having out breaks of disease and parasites when introducing new Koi into my ponds. The standard initial standard treatment was to add a considerable amount of salt to increase the fishes body slime. The body slime gives the fish a prophylactic protection and helps them to fend off diseases and parasites.

Obviously just adding more salt won’t work in a reef tank to increase body slime. But adding Vodka might. I remember one of the side effects of dozing Vodka as a carbon source to lower nitrates and phosphates, which I have been daily dosing about 1 .5 ml vodka per 10 gallons of tank capacity in my reef tanks with success for some time. A side effect from over dosing was a significant increase in bacterial slime on all surfaces of the tank. If you over dose Vodka by a lot the increased bacteria will not only cloud the water, but it can coat everything with a hairy flowing bacterial slime.

I figured that the Vodka (clean carbon source) increase may also increase the fishes good bacterial body slime and help it to fight off the ich. What did I have to loose? I was going to loose the fish anyway, if I did nothing. I decided to increase my normal daily 1.5 ml / 10 gallon dose by 5 times to 7.5 ml/ 10 gal. I had pushed the Vodka dosing too high before and knew what the effect would be. It had no real ill effects on the coral or fish, other than producing a lot of white bacteria film on the tank walls and causing the skimmer to over flow with foam

The second day after increasing the vodka dose, it appeared to be having a positive effect on the purple tang. The number ich spots were noticeably less. But, on the third day all the fish looked worse, the ich spots seemed to be increasing. The powder blue and foxface had a few more ich spots on their pectoral fins and the powder blue’s body scales seemed to be getting a coarse appearance. I continued the high rate daily Vodka dosing rate.

On the fourth day the water was cloudy with excess bacteria and a white angle hair like slime was appearing on everything. I didn’t dose that day and did a partial water change.

The skimmer continued producing twice the amount of normal skimate, while dosing Vodka. I use a filter floss in my filter bags and the bags virtually blind and stop recycle water flow through them from the heavy slimy bacteria build up in the floss. I changed out the filter floss daily. I feels like a hand full of snot it is so loaded with bacteria.

None of the SPS coral seemed negatively affected by the increased Vodka dosing; infact , the SPS had expanded their polyps and looked like they like the increased bacteria. The three clams in the tank definitely liked the increased bacteria and were expanded fully.

On the fifth day I saw a marked improvement. The tank cloudiness was gone. The fish had just about eaten all of the bacterial hair slim on the live rock. And most importantly, there was considerably less ich spots on the purple tang. The powder blue tang and foxface only had a few of ich spots left and the body scales no longer coarse looking.

It is still to early to reach a positive conclusion, but this maybe a safe treatment for marine ich in reef tanks. I won’t be sure until the parasites life cycle has been completed in another week or maybe even a month. At this point it looks very promising. Right now I am just writing this up in hopes of being able have some positive results to publish for others as a possible treatment if they should encounter this dreaded parasite.

I will continue to dose Vodka at about 3ml per 10 gal daily. I don’t view the use of Vodka as a cure, but rather a way of enhancing and boosting the fishes normal skin slim bacteria that it uses to fend off diseases and parasites. Hopefully the ich slowly dies off as the increased body slim keeps it from getting a hold.

ICH (white spot diseases or marine ich-Cryptocaryon)

The Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans
• Free-swimming cells called tomites are released from a mature tomont, or encrusted cyst, and go in search of a host fish, typically dying in a day or two if one is not found.
• Upon finding a host the tomites attach to the gills or body and develop into parasitic trophonts, at which stage the organisms burrow into the fish and begin feeding on its tissues.
• Once well fed the trophonts stop feeding and encyst, at which stage they become inactive tomonts. These dormant cysts can remain trapped in the fish's mucus, be imbedded deep in the tissue, or drop off and fall to the bottom. Over a period of 6 to 10 days the cells inside the cysts reproduce by single-cell division, and become tomites. Once reaching maturity the cysts rupture, each releases hundreds of new free-swimming tomites, and the cycle begins again, but in much larger numbers.

My fish were very healthy to start and they continued to eat well during the ich out break, so enhancing their skin an body immune system slim may have been more effective in my case compared to starting with a very weaken sick fish.

This approach will take further study and trials to reach any positive conclusion, but right now I believe Vodka dosing to fight ich has potential merit in treating the problem and allowing treatment to be safely done in a reef tank.

I fully expect to see continued minor ich outbreaks on the fishes body as ich cycle continues to taper and die out. Hopefully this method of increasing bacterial normal body slime on the fish to allow it to more easily fight off the parasite will prove successful in treating ich and other parasites. I will update this report over the next few weeks.

Fish photos day 1 and day 5 on my web site (the last photos posted). http://gallery.me.com/johnlaurenson#100393
 
i hope your findings are good cause almost the exact same thing just happened to me but with my powder brown same way intro and my tang has the same health ...... i'll try it next what else do i have to lose...
oh how did the anemone take it and what you use to mesure i working with about 80 gal
good luck to both of us lol
 
The anemone is fine, as are all my SPS frags. The increase in bacteria doesn't seem to bother the fish or coral. I am happy to say I no longer see any traces of ich on any of the fish this evening on day 6 after using this process. Between this afternoon and evening I watch a dozen remaining ich spots on the three tangs disappear completely. I am expecting to possibly see another ich attach as the ich eggs hatch, but as of this evening the fish shown no sign of ich.

For eighty gallons I would dose about 60ml per day of Vodka on day 1 and 2 into the sump or into the filter if you have one. On day 3 thru 5 I would cut the Vodka dose back to about 20 ml of Vodka. I would stop after 5 days and allow the tank to get back to normal. I saw positive results in about three days and no signs of ich on day 6. It is amazing how quickly the fish can recover using this process

Watch closely for a bacteria bloom, it can happen in a few hours. The tank glass and rock will get a white film of bacteria, which the fish will start to nibble on and eat, which is fine. You will probably get a bacteria bloom on day two and three. If bacteria bloom gets the water too cloudy and too much hairy bacteria develops, do a partial water change and don't dose Vodka that day. You don't want the bacteria to get too heavy or water too cloudy, which could deplete the tank of oxygen. If your get concerned with the cloudy water, drop an air stone into the tank as a safety measure, and stop dosing Vodka until it disappears. The water should clear up in a few hours.

What sort of filtration or skimmer are you using? If you are using a skimmer be prepared to clean out the skimate cup much more frequently.

Keep me up dated on what is happening and the results. The dosage worked for me, but you may find more or less is required for your tank.
 
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Just some observations:

First of all, the slime coating on a fish is not bacterial in composition, it is primarily sterile mucus. Certain irritants/stress can increase this mucus production. It has long been thought that increased mucus production will enhance a fish's ability to shed tomonts, but I've never heard of any actual proof of this. Additionally, some fish (including tangs) have ctenoid scales and very little mucus anyway.

My thoughts are that some combination of the following three ideas is at work here:

1) You noticed increased skimmate from your foam fractionator. This is well-known to also increase the export of POC from a system - including Cryptocaryon tomites.
2) There is a little understoond, but important energy web that occurs in aquariums between bacteria, algae, protozoans and other microfauna. Perhaps the addition of the ethanol caused a shift in this balance in favor of bacteria over protozoans....just a guess on this.
3) As you may already know, Cryptocaryon often goes through cycles - and in some reef tanks, can go into remission, all through a combination of low bio-load, export by skimmers, and filtration by invertebrates - combined with the systems having such good water quality, that the fish's resistance to infection is naturally enhanced in the first place. (But in some cases, it can also rebound an whack your fish in a few days time). IMO, many of the "reef safe" cures are just observations of this sort of thing.

Just some food for thought...

Jay
 
One other observation, your right on schedule for the point where the trophonts drop off the fish to reproduce. This often gives the appearance that the ich is gone, only to have it reapear several days later.
 
Jay and Bill,

Thanks for the input.

Bill I agree they may reappear, but I am starting to have my doubts. They have not only dropped off 100%, but the coarse rough skin has also healed. I'll have that answer in a week or less.

Jay, I believe the increase in bacteria mucus from the fresh clean carbon source is the key to what is happening. I believe this increase is happening not only on the outside but on the inside and through out the gills also, where trophonts are attaching themselves. It is this internal breakout around the gills that does the fish in first, from what I have read. You may be right that the mucus is mainly sterile, but I think it's rapid growth from the carbon may indicate a large part is highly bacteria in nature. I can only guess if this bacteria is also interfering with the Cryptocayon tomites production and ability to attach in some other manner.

The rapid bacteria growth through out the tank virtually happens in minutes when you add vodka. I can feel the new bacterial slim on the filter floss 20 minutes after I add the vodka dose. I believe the readily available carbon from the Vodka is allowing the fishes natural protection system react to the attack. Exactly what the increases mucus is doing to the Cryptocaryon tomites is open for conjecture.

No question the filtering out the free floating tomites, with the skimmer and the filter floss I use helps to clear out the water column. I would imagine the tomite get bound up in the heavy bacteria mucus in the floss and that grows through out the tank. The mucus may be acting like sticky fly paper and binding up the free-swimming tomite cells, making it easier to remove them with the skimmer and floss.

Again, I think I am seeing more than remission and a lull in the ich cycle. All three tangs skin just looks too healed, clean, and free of any hangers on from the ich. See the photos below after less than six days of treatment. First 2 are before and the last is from a few minutes ago.

But...the next few days will tell.

DSC_5343.jpg


DSC_5351_2.jpg


DSC_5405.jpg
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13570786#post13570786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jgljr
They have not only dropped off 100%, but the coarse rough skin has also healed.

Again, very typical of the cycle of ich in our aquaria. This has often led people into thinking they've cured ich with a variety of snake oil remedies, only to be surprised by the recurrence of it a week later.
 
As I acknowledged earlier, you may be right about the recurrence. The fact is ich is always present in the wild and waiting for weak/stressed fish to attach to. I believe that the fish body mucus is the key to the fish fighting it off. Increasing the body mucus on fresh water fish is a proven cure for ich. There is no reason to believe increasing body mucus is not also a cure for salt water fish ich. It may not kill it, just fend it off and keep it from attaching.

Although, I'd love to have a capable marine biologist step forward and take scrapings of the ich of the fish on days one through six during treating with vodka. We may find the fish body mucus bacteria encapsulates or breaks down the tomites cell wall, but that is just speculation.

It would take bright microbiologist to ascertain and take the time to find out......:cool:

I'll take another picture in a week for the doubting marine biologist and post it.
 
Update: Day 8

Day 8- Of the three fish affected by the ich, purple tang, powder blue tang, and fox face; the fox face has had two very small white spot tomont show up, and the power blue has several small spots and is showing some body irritation in it’s movement by scratching against the live rock a few times . The purple tang shows no signs of ich all, and it was the most heavily covered the first day. All three fish are eating and appear healthy, other than the few very tiny ich spots mentioned.

I decided to restart dosing Vodka at a reduced treatment rate, and to simply double my normal 1.5 ml / 10 g daily vodka dosage, to add more free carbon to the water column. This will hopefully make more carbon available to the fishes body surface to increase mucus and address the minor reoccurrence. That is about 15 ml of vodka for my 50 g system; 15 ml is about a capful from the vodka bottle I use.

I'm happy to say, within 6 hours after dosing that all tomonts have dropped off of the Foxface and powder blue tang, and all three tangs are again clear.

The three clowns have never shown any sign of infection during my ordeal. The mated pair appear very happy that I added the green bubble anemone that started this ich mess. (see attached)

DSC_5414.jpg
 
couldnt you dose prime to get the same effect of increasing their stress coat?

just wondering if all that bacteria in the water would cause problems down the road, or even now, they are building up the mucus because it irritates them no? might be an easier way to get that slime coat.
 
Possibly, but Prime is basically sulfite salts use to remove chloramines and ammonia. Building up the slime coat is a secondary function of Prime. Over dosing of Prime may have much worse consequence than over dosing Vodka, which is a very simple and clean carbon source than is quickly used by bacteria and accelerates the bacteria population growth.

I think many reefers don't understand how ethanol functions and look at Vodka as unsafe because it doesn't have Reef Tank chemical mfg putting it into a bottle, adding a label "SuperDuper Reef Bacteria Accelerator" and giving directions. Unless you buy a Vodka with flavoring added, it simply is a very pure ethanol alcohol diluted with distilled water. Ethanol is naturally produced in your tank during fermentation in a deep sand bed. Ethanol is far less harmful than many things sold for reef tanks in a bottle, unless it over dosed, which is true for anything you add to your tank; including salt.

Vodka has been safely and successfully used for years by many reef keepers through out the world to remove low traces of nitrates and phosphates to help stoney coral growth. I think if some just said they were using highly diluted ethanol as a clean carbon source to increase bacteria growth and not use the word "Vodka" it would be far less controversial.

And...no, it doesn't build mucus because it irritates the fish. It builds mucus(slime) because the the slime is high in bacteria and the bacteria multiply when fed a simple clean carbon.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13582741#post13582741 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jgljr
Ethanol is naturally produced in your tank during fermentation in a deep sand bed.

Only if your adding sugar and yeast ;)

It builds mucus(slime) because the the slime is high in bacteria and the bacteria multiply when fed a simple clean carbon.

Um, no, that is not how the slime coat on fish works. They create mucous from special cells that make the stuff, nothing to do with bacteria. Also a fish with a slime coat high in bacteria is not a healthy a fish. That's one of the things they are trying to keep away with their slime coats ;)


BTW on a totally different subject, don't you think it would have been better to email us and attempt to work out a favorable return to RC instead of trying to sneak back on? Any of the moderators here can be reached at their username @reefcentral.com.
 
jbljr not sure why you arent taking private messages, but would love to hear a follow up. I recently got a ick outbreak that has hit my 235 tank. Total volume is 290 gallons. I doesed 240ml accordingly to what u suggested to someone with an 80 gallon. Nothing happened at all last night in the fist 8 hours but this morning when I got up the tank was very cloudy, the skimmer had thick foam over foot up the wall, and all over the place. I just question your schedule as to even dose again today let alone that high of one again. Please pm when you can or post accordingly. Thanks, and if anyone else has any ideas on this or working with a project like this please advise.
Also on a different note I ahve a friend that has a 600 gallon tank, has a 2 ft nurse shark, 20 inch stars and strips puffer, with a few yellow tangs as inhabitants. He has a horrible algae problem and uses some algae chemical stuff to try to keep it down. Im curious what would be an advisable dosage of vodka per day to help cut back on the phosphates etc. Please remember this is in a restraunt and he wouldnt want the cloudly look. Ill make a seperate post as well.
 
He has moved on and no longer on RC hotwire73. You mess with the bull you get the horns I guess :) His theroy was not that solid anyway. Your better off using proven methods in a QT
 
hotwire73,

He was a previously banned member that snuck back on....not too successfully either ;)

The theory presented has a lot of holes, also a very long way to go to have any proof of anything other than coincidence in timing with the very well documented life cycle of ich.

As for your friends tank, there is a long running vodka thread in the chemistry forum that would give you some ideas to dose without getting the cloudy effect of over doing it. Iron oxide based phosphate removers are also another option for that situation.
 
Yes.......drunk fish are less stressed and more able to fight off disease! Were you drunk when you decided to pour the vodka in your tank? Just kidding. Lesley
 
K thanks, Ill probably follow though on his idea mixed with heavy garlic since the outbreak was beyond a qt. So far it seems to be working. Actually I got that link from another posting I had for a friends 600 gallon tank, but hes using it to cut back on algae growth, but thanks for the link it was a great one to start a safer manageable schedule.
 
Hotwire, sorry, just read your post. Basically, you better use fresh garlic, nicely crashed, 2 cloves/day in 55G for 3 days. Watch how it goes. Soak food in some garlic, damp the rest in the tank. Keys are:
raw garlic;
crashed;
use fresh;
damp at once;
use continuously for 3-4 days (watch for signs of stress).
This may help, would not hurt. I would not mix with vodka dosing, you do not know what effects will be. It is like mixing medicine.
Garlic also produces a lot of skimmate.
 
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