Robka
New member
Note; there are a few strains of Ich that can last up to 70 days. To be 100% sure, 72 days fallow would give that extra peace of mind.
Good luck
Powder Blue has ich.
- Thread starter mmotown
- Start date
Note; there are a few strains of Ich that can last up to 70 days. To be 100% sure, 72 days fallow would give that extra peace of mind.
Good luck
RBU1
Moving on Up
It's somewhere between free Copper and Copper with EDTA.
From reading this I got impression of fish experts that EDTA is actually chelating copper and inactivating it mostly, whereas citric acid is sequestering copper. Sequester imply it is less bound and more effective while it has longer stability in solution. Semantics could be argued by chemists.
Trick is to keep ppm near 0.2 with less effort. Sorry to say I am mostly unimpressed with medication vendors in this hobby.
From reading this I got impression of fish experts that EDTA is actually chelating copper and inactivating it mostly, whereas citric acid is sequestering copper. Sequester imply it is less bound and more effective while it has longer stability in solution. Semantics could be argued by chemists.
Trick is to keep ppm near 0.2 with less effort. Sorry to say I am mostly unimpressed with medication vendors in this hobby.
RBU1
Moving on Up
Very interesting... I was using Seacure I believe that is a free copper and had some issues with it. I was instructed to use Cupramine because its effective and has a largger window for error. My issue with copper is testing it. I really have a hard time telling those blue colors apart. I am going to invest in a hanna colorimeter for testing copper to help make that task a little easier.
So this mixture you are using do you have a pharmacist make it for you?
So this mixture you are using do you have a pharmacist make it for you?
I made it my self. Old and tested recipe is 21gm CuSO4 and 21g citric acid to 500ml DI water. It's the 1 drop per gallon to make 0.15 to 0.20 ppm Cu.
I read Cupramine will take longer and only be readable by new SeaChem test kit. It is a different method than Salifert. I hope to have a rythme to additions after a few days. I'm waiting for a heater to start as it will be copper too.
I read Cupramine will take longer and only be readable by new SeaChem test kit. It is a different method than Salifert. I hope to have a rythme to additions after a few days. I'm waiting for a heater to start as it will be copper too.
RBU1
Moving on Up
That is not true Cuprmaine can be read with any test kit. You just have to get the proper range. Free copper is maintained at a much lower level than cupramine. Using free copper you want to target the .15 to .20 range when you use cupramine you want to target .3 to .8.....5 being the safe mid range. Where did you get your information about the test kits not working with cupramine??? I am actually going to buy one of these...
http://www.hannacan.com/fiches_techniques/K-Photometers/HI95747.pdf
Since your post I read it does work on RC. There is also a post saying it does not work together. Original post said Salifert and Seachem reps questioned compatibility. The banter of reefcentral is confusing to get straight facts. It's why I use advice vet forums and authors. Guess I'm adding to it:bounce3:
If you get the hanna make sure they reference the actual method and reagents used to determine if it is effective. Just to let you know Aquatic Eco sells a LaMotte test kit that has a more practical range but it is expensive too.
If you get the hanna make sure they reference the actual method and reagents used to determine if it is effective. Just to let you know Aquatic Eco sells a LaMotte test kit that has a more practical range but it is expensive too.
RBU1
Moving on Up
I don't like any of the copper test kits the color charts are to close in shade that it makes it real hard to determine your level. Thats why I am looking at the electronic type.
Kieth71
New member
Cupramine can not be read with any test kits.The only two that work are seachem and salifert.api copper test kits for example do not work with cupramine.Salifert works but has some limitations as the range of testing is limited.I agree with you RBU1 trying to tell the colors apart is rediculous and they should make it easier.If you stare at it long enough youll talk yourself into 3 diffrent readings.
RBU1
Moving on Up
I don't think that statement is correct....I am waiting for a response from Seachem.
I think some kits don't work because they are outside the range you need to read with Cupramine. If you look at the API kit for example. It might only read to .2...You need to read at least .5 for the cupramine. But like I said I am waiting to confirm with Seachem before I drop the $300.00 on a photometer.
RBU1
Moving on Up
Read the bottle but to be safe I would say a month with Cupramine.
RBU1
Moving on Up
It is part of the problem. You want to have a kit that will test from .2 to .8 I asked Seachem they said Salifert and Red Sea kits work. Because they both cover the range. Like I said I am waiting for a response from Seachem.
Kieth71
New member
While i agree it does not have the ideal range that is not why it doesnt work.I have 3 copper test kits salifert,seachem and api.The api just does not measure the copper properly.I wish it did as the color range is much easier to tell part then the seachem but it wont work.I have no idea if the electronic meter you are looking at will work but i promise yout he api does not.
Saltydavey
In Memoriam
Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason!
The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.
wooden_reefer
New member
Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason!
The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.
No fish is an ich magnet if there is no ich in the system.
Degree of susceptbility of fish to ich is moot.
wooden_reefer
New member
Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason!
The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.
I believe it is more correct to say that ich is an infestation rather than an infection.
Generally, in a bacterial infection, the bacteria get into the system and never want to leave. Lifecycle of the bacteria is much simplier. In nature, a fish either wins or dies from bacterial infection. Winners get the chance to reproduce.
For ich in nature, no such selective breeding exist, probably. Ich leave the fish on its own as a part of its lifecycle. Fish never have the great need to win over ich, as long as certain effective resistance and the dilution of the ocean exist, ich to fish is like an itch. Ich is not an infection.
I am about 1/2 week into Quarantine of atlantic blue. It will be 8 weeks because DT is not empty yet.
I am using Salifert and Copper Sulfate in Citric Acid. I do not have your dilema with reading test kit. I just add 5 drops AM and 5-8 drops PM and test either AM or PM daily. It drops about 0.05 ppm in 12 hrs on its own. Just need a note pad.
I noticed all nori is gone each day in a low flow tank and fish responded better when I gave it Plastic sheet and pipe to hide in. Sponge filter was conditioned 2-3 weeks in MT sump. 1 1/2" fish is alone in 20 gallon tank, so filter should be OK. I check NH3 everyday.
This is easy. Real problem is extracting remaining fish in DT.
I am using Salifert and Copper Sulfate in Citric Acid. I do not have your dilema with reading test kit. I just add 5 drops AM and 5-8 drops PM and test either AM or PM daily. It drops about 0.05 ppm in 12 hrs on its own. Just need a note pad.
I noticed all nori is gone each day in a low flow tank and fish responded better when I gave it Plastic sheet and pipe to hide in. Sponge filter was conditioned 2-3 weeks in MT sump. 1 1/2" fish is alone in 20 gallon tank, so filter should be OK. I check NH3 everyday.
This is easy. Real problem is extracting remaining fish in DT.
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