Power Supply Needed for LED Project.

I was looking, i couldn't even find any online. Also trying to put this build together for a few other guys i know, so would need a few of these setups. I could find 5 up boards, but not 10 readily. Would probably take a bit more digging. Other than though, this look like everything i'd need for a good basic build that's easily plug and play with solderless equipment?

ahh, also just realized, by splitting the LED strings down to 8 instead of 16, i'd need 3 more end jumpers as well
 
wiring LEDs

wiring LEDs

I have built 2 lights using stuff I bought from RLED. I, too was attracted to the ease of the solderless connectors, but on the light pictured, were a big pain. If I had it to do over again, I'd solder the wires to reduce the clutter and also to allow me to use a different color wire for each string.
 
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supply list

supply list

You are likely to need quite a few more bits and pieces for this. When I made my DIY light using stuff purchased from RLED, I ended up needing to buy wires to link power supply to driver board, a box to house the board, a wire from driver box to LED heat sink, wires from storm controller to driver box, a couple of sockets for the wall wart power and the RJ45 cable I used to connect driver with lamp. Although I like RLED very much, they don't sell these items. There is at least one other place that sells the MakersLED heatsinks and associated equipment that has all of the bits and pieces you need. I will definitely use this next time rather than having to run around trying to find other needed items.


hrm, now i'm confused about the 5up and 10 up boards ect... here's my product list so far and what i have planned out... Planned on all through RapidLED (plug and play, price ect all pretty reasonable).

16 XP-G2 CW $68 (Connect to a 700H Driver) 2.9V
16 XT-E Royal Blue $52 (Connect to the 500H Driver) 3.9V
16 XP-E Blue $56 (Connect to a 1000H Driver) 3.9V
8 XP-E Green $30 (Connect to a 1000H Driver) 3.8V
8 Cree XP-E Photo Red $26 (Connect to a 1000H Driver) 2.5V
4 Osram Oslon Yellow (not really needed, only used to "brighten" the lights. If you just REALLY want to, substitute XP-G2 "Warm White")
8 SemiLED Hyper Violet $36 (Connect to a 700H Driver) 4.0V
8 SemiLED True Violet $36 (Connect to a 700H Driver) 4.0v

56 Cree XP-E/XP-G 80 Degree Lens $70
16 SmiLEDs Violet UV Lens $20

7 Solderless LED Plug $5.25

2 Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive $14

2 LDD-H-4 Driver Board $30
3 LDD-700H Driver - $21.75
1 LDD-500H Driver - $7.25
3 LDD-1000H Driver - $21.75

Storm X Pro Controller $95
3D Printed Case for Coralux Storm X Controler $10

So, to be clear, for this to stay practical, i would need to get
3 LDD-H-4 Driver Board $45
4 LDD-700H Driver - $29
2 LDD-500H Driver - $14.5
4 LDD-1000H Driver - $29

With new prices updated there. With this setup, and the Storm X Pro being able to have 10 jumpers. This should be able to power all of it correctly? Now if i could just find a good tutorial on how to add a Arduino to it and get a Temp and Ph Sensor, ATO Control and make it bluetooth / wireless. That would be freaking perfect and everything i could ask for... I've been looking all week, but can't find a good tutorial on that for beginners... So, thought this would be the easiest / cheapest route to go for what's effectively 2 XR30w EchoTech Lights over my 6 ft 150G
 
Fair, but i'm also trying to do this to help others that are not able to solder. I myself can, and will when i make my own build. However, to help others, they need to be able to plug and play. I'm just making sure i get the parts / build list and instructions right for them.

I've just never done one this way before with PSU and LDD. I've always just used the HGL drivers, so wanted to check here to make sure i'm not missing something. As far as i can tell, this should cover it.

Mars, image didn't post for some odd reason
 
The bare wire and connectors i knew i'd need. Heatsinks and boxes i have covered for cheaper than anything i could buy online. Using the old tactic of gutting Amplifiers for heatsink and screwing an acrylic shield on the bottom piece. I don't bother with the RJ45, just use wire nuts and silicone to seal them off.

the "couple of sockets for the wall wart power" i don't know what you're referring too here... Other than that, making sure i have the wiring from PSU to LDD to Controller and then LED is where i'm really gonna have to research. I'm used to just going straight from HGL to LED which has separate leads for the Pot control... Never dealt with a controller at all, so that's why i'm being cautious and making sure i have it all squared out first.
 
You need 2 wires from each driver to the lamps per channel (or 1 + 1 overall common if you do it that way) and wires from the Storm controller to the driver box. For me, it looked messy so I went with a 10 connector cable from a local electronics shop. I outsmarted myself with the RJ45 connector. I wanted to be able to disconnect as many things as possible if necessary.

What I meant for wall wart is 2.5 mm DC power connectors - the things you plug the wall warts into on your device. Yes, you can hardwire them. I did all the hardwiring and wire nuts for my previous LED upgrade and it is a complete mess of wires when it is time to move the hood for any reason. I was trying for simplicity.

It sounds like you are on track. If you google MakersLED heat sink, there are some other sources of the various components that might be attractive alternatives for your build.


The bare wire and connectors i knew i'd need. Heatsinks and boxes i have covered for cheaper than anything i could buy online. Using the old tactic of gutting Amplifiers for heatsink and screwing an acrylic shield on the bottom piece. I don't bother with the RJ45, just use wire nuts and silicone to seal them off.

the "couple of sockets for the wall wart power" i don't know what you're referring too here... Other than that, making sure i have the wiring from PSU to LDD to Controller and then LED is where i'm really gonna have to research. I'm used to just going straight from HGL to LED which has separate leads for the Pot control... Never dealt with a controller at all, so that's why i'm being cautious and making sure i have it all squared out first.
 
that is a good reason. I was one of those soldering challenged individuals which is why I purchased the solderless connectors. I eventually bought a soldering iron and watched a few youtube videos and can now solder reasonably well. A useful skill for any DIYer....

You are likely to need quite a few more bits and pieces for this. When I made my DIY light using stuff purchased from RLED, I ended up needing to buy wires to link power supply to driver board, a box to house the board, a wire from driver box to LED heat sink, wires from storm controller to driver box, a couple of sockets for the wall wart power and the RJ45 cable I used to connect driver with lamp. Although I like RLED very much, they don't sell these items. There is at least one other place that sells the MakersLED heatsinks and associated equipment that has all of the bits and pieces you need. I will definitely use this next time rather than having to run around trying to find other needed items.
 
Ahhh, how many and what type of DC power connectors would i need? As well, how many Jumper Cables will i need from the Storm Controller to the lights? I would think 1 jumper cable per channel, so if doing 10 strings of lights, would need 10 jumpers? And that should be the connected wires there. Or, possibly only 7 after finding this little gem... Would this work to be able to do the 16 lights on strings?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...32556791.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.165.zbmmc1
 
1 for each wall wart connection. The system I just built has 1 for the cooling fan on the heatsink and another one to power the controller. The Storm-X requires one set of wires for each channel, I believe.

That power supply looks beefy enough but I don't know anything about it. Perhaps someone else on here does? If you are using Meanwell LDD-H drivers, I think that they max out at 56 volts. What I did for mine was to use a 48V Meanwell power supply and not go above 13 LEDs per string. You should have enough channels.


Ahhh, how many and what type of DC power connectors would i need? As well, how many Jumper Cables will i need from the Storm Controller to the lights? I would think 1 jumper cable per channel, so if doing 10 strings of lights, would need 10 jumpers? And that should be the connected wires there. Or, possibly only 7 after finding this little gem... Would this work to be able to do the 16 lights on strings?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...32556791.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.165.zbmmc1
 
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