Preparing for 220 Build

I can control my return pump with my APEX. I slid my finger to off and it turns off. I slide my finger to Auto and the programing takes over. What more control do you need?



The DC controllable pumps allow you to change the pump speed with the apex as well. As I said above there are definitely some good reasons to be able to do so, but it's not absolutely necessary. You can still do a lot with just on/off control
 
I believe mine is built for herbie style???



Two overflows with two holes in bottom of tank for each



If it's like mine it was designed for a single durso drain in each overflow with the other hole being used for the return. But there's no reason you need to run it like that. I plumbed the returns over the sides of the tank, so I could do dual herbies.
 
If it's like mine it was designed for a single durso drain in each overflow with the other hole being used for the return. But there's no reason you need to run it like that. I plumbed the returns over the sides of the tank, so I could do dual herbies.

Damn it. I need to read more. So I can just run the return line over the back?
 
Damn it. I need to read more. So I can just run the return line over the back?



Yeah, that's no problem. I think there are some pictures of how I did mine on my build thread, but I can take some more if you want.

By the way, I just saw where you are from. My wife grew up in Stanley and went to school in Penn Yan. I lived in Albany before I moved to florida.
 
Yeah, that's no problem. I think there are some pictures of how I did mine on my build thread, but I can take some more if you want.

By the way, I just saw where you are from. My wife grew up in Stanley and went to school in Penn Yan. I lived in Albany before I moved to florida.

How old is she? Don't meet many people from Penn Yan City on here.
 
So, I'm getting ready to clean the tank up a bit. It was a wall display, so they painted the back and sides black. Not overly concerned about the back, but what is the best way of removing paint from the sides without damaging the glass.
 
It depends on what type of paint.My suggestion is to start with the least abrasive steel wool available( something ,very fine).Autobody shops use it to remove paint overspray on windshields.I would test it in as very small,least conspicuous place,in case it scratches, your glass.OR. Use a razor blade ,as you would normally if trying to remove stubborn algae. But go slow,so you don't gouge into the glass,accidentally. I do not recommend paint removers,commercially available because it will rot any silicone it accidentally comes in contact with.
 
The steel wool scares me a little just because it seems like it would be very scratchy, but I will say that I did use some steel wool to remove some silicone residue on my current sump and I didn't really notice any scratches from it (although I also didn't really care if it scratched because it was going to be a sump, so I didn't look closely). Personally I'd go with the razor blade.
 
I used a razor blade after I'd soaked the paint with vinegar. Keep the surface wet and the blade fresh.


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Following along. Setting up a 220 as well. If you go Apex, check out their power heads. I swear by vortechs but might be giving the Neptune pumps a shot since I already have the Apex.
 
I'm confused as to why you want such a big sump. The main purpose for a sump is to keep equipment out of the display. The refuge is a good thing up to a point if your tank is heavy with nutrients your sump will not save you the space needed for reactors and a external skimmer to have more room in the refuge are crucial. Not to mention if down the road you need a ATS you have no room. Just my opinion, My last tank was a 125 with a 55 sump no room for anything. My new build is a 180 with a 40 sump.
 
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