Project 58!! (Image intense)

I went out today and bought some unions for the Spa-Flex running from the OM to the overflow...I should have done that from the beginning for maintenance reasons. After putting them in I will be able to take the OM unit offline for a few hours so it can be soaked in vinager to remove calcium deposits. I also bought some egg crate material for the top of the tank...keeps fish in...lets air out.
I've also decided to hit the stand with silicone again once more, just to reinforce a couple of spots where the "Marine Goop" didnt seal very well.
I will be posting pics of all of this later....
The timeline for the tank being set up is by the end of the month.
Nick
 
I cut the Spa-flex and glued two unions in line. This will allow me to completely remove the OM unit for maintenance. I also glued a union into the vertical length of my return plumbing. This will allow me to "swivel" the return nozzle so I can angle it pretty much where ever I want. The skimmer also arrived today. The plan today is to drain the tank and sump, test the return pump flow rate, paint the back of the tank, and slather silicone into all the seams of the stand that the Marine Goop did not seal right. If I get all of this done in the garage, my fiance wont be able to complain about the smell of drying paint and silicone.
 
Okay....this was weird.....
According to the math, my return pump in its present configuration is only putting out 316 GPH.
I used the Skimmer Math link to calculate the return pump flow. If its works for skimmers, it ought to be able to work for smaller return pumps...
How to measure your skimmers capacity.
Gallons per hour rating can easily be measured by anyone, all it takes is a watch and a 5 gallon bucket. Measure the time it takes to fill the bucket with the skimmers discharge. No guessing, no "trust me" here.
Total gallons filled (divided by) Seconds to fill (x) 3600 = Skimmers GPH flow rate
e.g. 30 seconds to fill a 5 gallon bucket would equal a 600 GPH flow rate.

I went out and got a bucket, and an oversized piece of flexible tubing. The tubing was oversized in order to prevent friction from being a factor. At no time was the hose completely filled with water from the return pipe...just kinda like a water slide...all along the sides and bottom of the tubing. It took 57 seconds to fill the 5 gallon bucket.
5 divided by 57 multiplied by 3600 equals 315.789.....roughly 316 gph. This is a mag 7 and I was expecting somewhere in the 400 gph range.
Next I went to the RC head loss calculator and entering in all the info I would have if I were plumbing it with 90 degree elbows.....it came out to 410 gph. BUT the smallest diameter plumbing that it allows to be used in the calculator is 3/4 inch...and I'm running 1/2 inch....so that might make a large difference....
I remember reading on a long forgotten thread that Mag drive pumps require oversize plumbing...but that made no sense to me. Anybody know if this the case?
 
Cheapest answer will be to redo my plumbing and use 3/4 inch plumbing to allow more flow.....
Decisions, decisions......
The new unions worked great....no leaks...I let everything run a few hours just to make sure. Then I drained the tank and sump, taped the back of the tank, and painted the glass on either side of the overflow. I decided against painting the glass behind the overflow.
If for some whackadoo reason I ever needed to see back there....I still can, and the black overflow will blend seamlessly with the black paint on the rear of the glass.
I removed the sump and siliconed the snot out of every seam in the bottom of the "water proof box" in the base of the stand. My original calculations of the box's water volume capacity was 21 gallons. With the sump in there, I'm sure its closer to 7-10 gallons...but thats still a significant amount of water on an 80 gallon system...enough that it should be noticeable should it suddenly turn up there......(Screw you Murphy!)
Nick
 
The Penn Plax B-11 Battery back up air pumps arrived today. They are a lot smaller than I expected....thats not a bad thing....I just sort of expected these things to be bigger.
The paint on the back of the tank is dry, and so is the silicone in the bottom of the stand. The tank is ready to move inside!!
Rocio works from home and her boss will be making a home visit tomorrow.....I guess to make sure she has everything set up right, or just to be nosy....I don't know for sure. But I'm not allowed to clutter up the house with an empty fish tank until Thursday, 18 November....so it will sit in the garage a little longer.
I will also be re doing the plumbing for the Mag 7. I will increase the diameter of the plumbing from 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch in an effort to increase flow. I want to have at least 4 times system turnover per hour...which will mean that I can upgrade my skimmer pump so it will cycle all 80 gallons 4 times an hour....I just need to make things complicated.... :D
 
I brought the tank inside today.....got it skinned and placed the Euro-Reef CS6-2 in the sump. I looks great inside the house all dressed up. I still need to attach the light box....but its coming along. I'm pretty happy with the way the stand and canopy wood look. It doesnt quite match the floors, (its a little warmer toned than in the pictures). But I still like it.

Heres the stand skinned up with tank on top and painted.

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Sideshot looking towards the living room.

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Nick
 
You can see the access door I made to allow me into the back of the stand but keep my dogs out. You can also see the top of my Euro-Reef CS6-2 skimmer poking out. It will have to be raised at least 4-6 inches so more of it will be visible. The manufacturer reccomends 5-8 inches of water depth for their skimmers to sit in...mine sits in 12 1/2 right now....hence the need for risers.

Here is a close up of the access door. Ther are two, one for each side.

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Here is a shot with the access door opened...you can see how much easier its going to be to get to the skimmer for maintenance. Easy is better.

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Here is a close up of the space behind the stand for maintence and showing how easy it is to get to the skimmer for cleaning.

110Euro-Reef_CS6-2_squeezed_into_sump-med.JPG



I also hated stands that had narrow doors, stands with doors that have a support or partition in the middle of them, or worst of all stand with narrow partitioned doors....ya cant fit anything under there that wont fit thru one of those itty bitty doors!
So I built my stand with a huge honkin door....with no partitions!
I have room for my 30 gallon custom sump, and room for my calcium reactor under there too....

110enormous_door_open-med.JPG
 
Still need to:

Stain and seal the arms the light box will hang from.
Stain and seal the dowel rod the light box will be raised and lowered from.
Need to make the hand crank, and then stain and seal it.
Hang the lightbox.
Purchase two American DJ PC-100/A AC Power Centers. ( the local Guiter Center in town has them for the same price...no shipping charges.)
Lay down the starboard bottom...(prolly need to get on ordering that then...DOH!)
AQUASCAPE!!

Tomorrow will be redoing the return pump plumbing in 3/4 inch for better flow. I will also hopefully be able to knock out some of the other wood work.
Nick
 
Bought a couple of things today.

First was a riser for my skimmer. Euro-Reef recommends their skimmers sit in only 5-8 inches of water for maximum efficiency. Unfortunately, the way my sump was designed by me, (hindsight is ALWAYS 20/20.....sigh), the skimmer would be sitting in 12.5 inches of water. So I needed to fix that. I bought two 6 inch (diameter) fitting clean out bodies from Lowes, and two 6 inch flat topped caps. Total cost $30.00, but when dry fitted together they make a 6 inch flat topped platform for my skimmer and pump.

Here the two pieces are apart.

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Here are all four pieces assembled into two risers.

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Here is the skimmer sitting ontop of the risers. For frame of reference the skimmer is a Euro-Reef CS6-2, ( 6 inch diameter tube, 24 inches high.)

110Euro-Reef_on_risers2-med.JPG



This is how deep the skimmer sat before the risers.

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Here is the skimmer after the risers.....with Gracie's head in the way.

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Here is a different angle.
Before risers:

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After risers:

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Nick
 
I also bought a Watch Dog water alarm from Lowes. $19.99 from the link I attached......$9.99 at Lowes in the plumbing aisle by sump pumps. 110 decibels of notification that a leak is in progress. Think Fire Alarm only for flooding....
This will sit in the stand (which has been water proofed with silicone seams) and should alert pretty much the whole freakin house that there is a problem with the aquarium, and that something should be done before the house is ruined or the tank runs dry....which would also suck.......alot.

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BTW Home Depot also sells these online for $9.99 but their website was down for back ups when I posted this....

I also bought more plumbing and more egg crate. Playing with egg crate SUCKS!!!! Anyone know a way to cut this stuff without having it explode into a bazillion shards???

Nick
 
I just tested the flow rate of the new return plumbing....(bumped up from 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter PVC).
I made a HUGE gain in flow...from 316 GPH up to 453.85 gallons...roughly 454 gph, which turns my 80 gallon tank volume over approximately 5.67 times per hour. Right where I wanted it. And this is using a Mag 7 as my return pump. Still havent made the jump to a Mag 9.5...might not need to.
Nick
 
A friend who happens to be pretty good w/ electrical gave me a way to check if my house can handle the increased electrical usage.

Hey Nick.... you need to find the breaker that supplies power to your outlets. The cheapest way of doing this is by flipping off each breaker one at a time, then going around to each room to see what was turned off, when doing this you may want to shut everything off but a light in each room. I used a small light & went to the room that the breaker turned off and plugged it in to every outlet, sometimes one breaker will cover several rooms, so take notes, & make a list, this is time consuming I know but will pay off later. Once you get a complete list, you can see what size breaker/s that feed your aquarium, & other devices. In most post-modern homes the big electrical demands were, kitchens, I.e., refrigerators, toasters etc. The other was your central A/C/electric stoves, which big ticket items used 220v double pole breakers, usually they are very obvious in the breaker box. Modern homes, electric water heaters, microwaves, dish washers, dryers etc. so they have larger breakers supplying those areas, sometime several breakers feed the kitchen (I think I have one 50A for the stove, one 30A & one 20A in my kitchen). The under sight until recently has been the living room, this room these days also use up lots of power. Most all other rooms can span one breaker with no problems. As you make a list, on the breaker panel, either write the rooms each breaker supplies or post a detailed list next to it, in emergencies it will be helpful. In an older home, it may be difficult to power a huge reef & maintain a safety factor, It could be as easy as adding another breaker & dedicated line to the tank area, or it could mean totally breaker box replacement, then adding another line to the tank area, this is when you will need to call in a professional, certified, or at least well experienced in retrofitting & meeting the proper codes in your local area. Now that I scared you, LOL, you can use plan "B", after locating all of your breakers & their feeds, you can devise a split on power maybe. Try and use two separate breakers, & save you lots of cash. One good thing about breakers, if you are pushing them too far, they should trip (if properly wired in the first place), that is their purpose, if you do trip a breaker, then it is time for alternative planning. I hope this helps Nick.

So it looks like I'll be doing that on Tuesday night after Rocio gets off work. She works from the house and I cant exactly go inadvertantly flipping off her computer, just cause I wanna see what breaker goes where.....I work tonight and Monday night also...so its gonna have to wait til at least then.
I will buy the DJ 100 power centers Tuesday, and order a TDS meter as well.

Nick
 
I went downstairs and messed with the breakers tonight in order to discover which breaker my tank would be on. If I'm reading things right, my tank will be on a 20 amp breaker which runs only three outlets. Those three outlets power :
My computer and printer.
My paper shredder.
And a living room light.
Three 60 or so watt bulbs in the basement.

Not exactly sure of the total draw of all of those together....but I feel much better about plugging everything into the outlet next to the tank.
 
I feel like a bit of a dumb@$$ cause I made some stupid errors in construction.
I used the remaining 3/4" plywood, (left over from skinning the stand), on my lightbox. This resulted in a lightbox that weighed about 40-50 lbs which was 'sposed to hang over the tank. When I realized how heavy this was I figured it was just well built.......
DOH!!!! note to self....bigger is not neccessarily better when building a canopy full of electric lamps to hang over a fragile water filled glass box.
Well it was so heavy it pulled my support braces out of whack and wasnt really going to work as planned. So, I decided to take it apart and reconfigure. I decided to use 1/4" plywood instead for the skin. One of the things I had disliked about the original lightbox was that it hung over all four edges of the tank a couple of inches....cause I just cut the lightbox frame pieces the exact dimensions of the tank. I didnt take into account the extra two inches created by the wood used for the frame itself, (ie used 1x2's for the frame....cut the 1x2's into (4) pieces 36" long, (4) pieces 18" inches long for the width...which when assembled left with a box 36" long, but 20" wide...18 inch pieces were placed inside the 36 inch pieces....make sense?) And when I added the 3/4" playwood to that, it added another 1 1/2" to the diameter of the box...so now I've got a 38Lx 22Wx10H box that weighed 40-50 lbs.....
So I did some surgery on the lightbox frame with my mitre saw.....and didnt do such a good job.....cut the side braces, (originally 18" long), too short......and then I headed on back to HD for more wood.

The new box is being stained right now. Its ALOT lighter in weight than the previous one. Its also shorter in height and width as well. The new box should be about 38Lx15Wx7.5H. I am going to be running 36" 95 Watt VHO actinics, in addition to my dual 250 w AB10K DE bulbs...so thats why I needed 36" of interior lightbox space....which makes the exterior of the lightbox a full 38 inches long.
I also just bought a TDS meter from the same place I bought my RO/DI unit from www.airwaterice.com
Cost me $35 shipped. I was in the process of ordering the cuttingboard for the bottom of the tank...but their website is kinda weird regarding custom sizes...so I'll wait til later on today when they are open and speak to a person by phone so there are no misunderstandings.
Thats all for right now......I'm gonna wait til the TDS meter arrives before filling the tank. I want to double check the water coming out of my RO/DI unit...Ive had it for about 2 years, but I shut it off for the last 10 months or so since I havent had a tank up and running during that time. I have spare filters for it, but I just want to make sure. The filters are sposed to be the color changing type, and the bottom of one of the membranes has turned and orange rust color, but its just the bottom inch...so in theory, it should still be good to go.....
Thanks for staying tuned...
Nick
 
Goodies came in the mail today!!!
Got my cutting board for the bottom. I bought it from www.thecuttingboardcompany.com and bought a sheet of white 1/2" thick measuring 34 3/4" x 16 3/4". I cut a section out for the overflow and placed in the tank. Looks good and I'm happy with it.
My TDS meter arrived today also...(along with the neighbors bills??? I'm not payin 'em...I dont care if he is my neighbor).
Water from the tap measures at 215-218 ppm. Water from the RO/Di unit measures at 014 ppm. I'm happy with that. The tank will have water put it in it tonight. Probably wont be able to get it full tonight...but thats okay, cause I can wait another day.

I have the new lighter weight, light box ready to be hung. And I bought the American DJ PC-100A power centers the other day. they need to be hooked up. I like these things. More pics will follow.
Nick
 
Got a bunch done.....
First step was to get the cuttingboard inside the tank. This required some measuring, planning and my favorite.....cutting!
The cutting board was ordered as a sheet of white 1/2" thick measuring 34 3/4" x 16 3/4" with rounded over edges. This was just a 1/8 of an inch smaller than the inside of the tank.

Here it is being measured for cutting. I needed to cut it in order for it to fit around my overflow box which is 10"Lx6"W.

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Here it is with the footprint of the overflow all traced out. You can also see the clamps I used while building this entire stand. These things are worth their weight in gold IMO...thankfully, they arent that expensive. Also comes in different sizes...this is one of the smaller ones I have.

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I cut it with a jig saw and a regular blade. No hassle at all. Worked so easy it was frightening.

Nick
 
Here is a top down shot of it. The cut wasnt as precise as I would have liked, (thats what happens when I free hand cut.....man I need a table saw!), but it is more than perfect for what I need.

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Here's a front shot of it in the tank. This stuff is lighter than water and will float. However, my Loc-line returns are keeping held down until I get the rockwork in place.

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And a side shot:

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The tank just has RO/DI water in it right now....no salt mix....so the water is cloudy because the skimmer isnt working properly, (Skimmers dont work in fresh water because it doesnt have the right surface tension to create fine bubbles needed to skim. Just the big old goofy bubbles that wont make skimmate...just an FYI kinda thingy.)

Nick
 
I also added braces for the lightbox support arms. The weight of the original lightbox pulled the arms down and out of level. I made a lighter box, (no pics yet), and braced up the supports with these 2x6 pieces I had lying around that were already stained and sealed. The support arms are not stained and sealed as of yet. I'm waiting to hang the lightbox so I can determine exactly where the best point to hang the box from. I'm still trying to decide if I want to drill two holes through the support arms and run the dowel rod, (that will suspend the lights and allow me to raise and lower the lights), through them, or mount another pice of wood above the arms and drill two holes through them. The only reason for doing it that way would be to gain 4 inches or so that I could raise the lights. Any suggestions?

Left arm looking towards living room.

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Same arm inside, looking towards kitchen.

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Nick
 
Finally, I made the standpipe mod...

Originally I made a Stockman standpipe, I chose it because I couldnt think of a way to put a strainer over the Durso and keep larger snails from getting stuck in the bulkhead.
I used plans from Durso's Standpipe Page. I'm assuming that it is necessary to use larger plumbing with those as it is with the Durso's...cause this thing was LOUD!!!!!! Rocio couldnt sleep and neither could I. It literally sounded louder than a toilet flushing constantly. Had to make a change.
Luckily, I saw another reefer's mod to the Durso, which created a strainer which would keep snails out. He basically took another piece of plumbing, and sawed a row of shallow cuts into the side, along the entire length of his "strainer". So I copied that too....

Here is a pick of the new Durso standpipe.

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Thankfully it worked! Now the loudest thing from the tank is my closed loop pump grinding out air bubbles left inside from when it was filled with water initially. That will dissipate in time.

Nick
 
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