Proof that Oceanic Salt is BAD!!!!

FYI, i investigated my prior coment further and indeed the leaching of clorides will in fact be due to the submergence of particulate chemicals including the ones i pointed out earlier. best bet? use food grade plastics and nothing else in the long run. for temorary use "trash" cans can be used.
still having a problem? make sure its food grade. not trash, not cleaning buckets, not used oil drums, not spent plutonium or strontium holding tanks.
 
dga said:
FYI, i investigated my prior coment further and indeed the leaching of clorides will in fact be due to the submergence of particulate chemicals including the ones i pointed out earlier. best bet? use food grade plastics and nothing else in the long run. for temorary use "trash" cans can be used.
still having a problem? make sure its food grade. not trash, not cleaning buckets, not used oil drums, not spent plutonium or strontium holding tanks.

Very interesting, would you please cite some references so that I can research this?

Do you think something it is possible reacting only with something in Oceanic that is not contained in Instant Ocean?
 
i e-emailed oceanic asking about bad salt and algea and i got a reply saying that it couldnt be from the salt than i e-mailed him this link and never got a reply...
 
Who cares if the Oceanic caused that. Mix up a fresh batch and check your Alk/Calc levels. You will notice that they are completely out of whack. This is a common (if not inevitable) problem with Oceanic. I won't use Oceanic simply because these are not in balance... which causes you to ride the nasty Alk/Calc roller coaster. Everyone praises it because of its high calcium, but they obviously don't pay attention to their alkalinity.
 
revance said:
Who cares if the Oceanic caused that. Mix up a fresh batch and check your Alk/Calc levels. You will notice that they are completely out of whack. This is a common (if not inevitable) problem with Oceanic. I won't use Oceanic simply because these are not in balance... which causes you to ride the nasty Alk/Calc roller coaster. Everyone praises it because of its high calcium, but they obviously don't pay attention to their alkalinity.

What salt do you use that you find to be in perfect balance upon mixing?
 
4ldpe

4ldpe

on the trash can issue. Mine has the number four on it and the letters LDPE under that. Is this food grade or should I replace it with something different ?
 
LDPE=Low Density Polyethylene. Most white Milk jugs, Salt buckets, supplement bottles, distilled water are made of HDPE (The high density variation) My guess is that density might make little difference.

Now regarding Poly Vinyl Chloride it is my understanding that drinking water jugs and large purified water bottles are made out of it.
In addition then if it is toxic why do we use it for all our piping? PVC = Poly Vinyl Chloride :D
 
jdieck said:
LDPE=Low Density Polyethylene. Most white Milk jugs, Salt buckets, supplement bottles, distilled water are made of HDPE (The high density variation) My guess is that density might make little difference.

Now regarding Poly Vinyl Chloride it is my understanding that drinking water jugs and large purified water bottles are made out of it.
In addition then if it is toxic why do we use it for all our piping? PVC = Poly Vinyl Chloride :D

Its not that is toxic.... from what i understand. it is that some plastic are know to release some small amounts of phosphate..

Dave
 
jdieck said:
LDPE=Low Density Polyethylene. Most white Milk jugs, Salt buckets, supplement bottles, distilled water are made of HDPE (The high density variation) My guess is that density might make little difference.

Now regarding Poly Vinyl Chloride it is my understanding that drinking water jugs and large purified water bottles are made out of it.
In addition then if it is toxic why do we use it for all our piping? PVC = Poly Vinyl Chloride :D

And why is it that I get brown gunk in my mixing bucket only with Oceanic and not with Instant Ocean?
 
I looked on the bottom of my Oceanic bottle. It has the recycling triangle with a 2 inside it. What kind of plastic is that? I was planning on reusing the container to store my IO!! The plastic shouldn't be an issue, should it?
 
well i switched back to io after long browning water issues with oceanic my water is so much clearer and no more brown
 
I stopped using it after I noticed rapid growth in my micro algae(film on glass, hair algae went nuts as did the macro) after wc's. I used IO for 2.5 years before and have never noticed this. I went back to IO and didn't noticed the increased growth in the micro's and the snails finally have a fighting chance and are winning the battle for me now.

I don't know for sure if it was the Oceanic but I'm done using it anyway. I just add a cap each of my 2 part buffer to the IO and its CA/Alk levels are prime. Plus, I don't even want to question the salt I put into my tank. Peace of mind.
 
ohioreefer said:
I looked on the bottom of my Oceanic bottle. It has the recycling triangle with a 2 inside it. What kind of plastic is that? I was planning on reusing the container to store my IO!! The plastic shouldn't be an issue, should it?

HDPE = High Density Polyethylene same as everyone else's
 
This information comes second hand so take it as you will. I good friend of mine recently attended the aquarium expo in Florida a couple of weeks ago and came back with some suprizing information. Like the rest of you guys I was running my Sal' around 1.026-1.027. And like you guys I had some serious algae problems when I started using Oceanic. It seems that Oceanic was not designed to push the Sal' up this high. This salt was designed for 1.023-1.024. After you get higher than this it seems to cause an algae problems. Reasons I know not. All I know is that when I dropped the Sal' back to 1.024 and after a couple of weeks the algae was gone. I still use the Oceanic with the lower Sal' and everything in my SPS tank is doing great. As far as the RO tank shown at the start. Unless this can was sealed air tight you will get some forgien matter in the water. Life will thrive, and find a way. Dust from the room is all that is needed to seed
an algae growth. And the light that was used provided the light and the heat, perfect conditions for bacteria to grow.
 
I had problems when I switched to IO after starting and maintaining a successful tank with Red Sea.... I suspect it wasn't so much the IO as it was a change in brand..... just a theory - things started getting better when I switched back.
 
DukeNSC said:
...It seems that Oceanic was not designed to push the Sal' up this high. This salt was designed for 1.023-1.024. After you get higher than this it seems to cause an algae problems. Reasons I know not. All I know is that when I dropped the Sal' back to 1.024 and after a couple of weeks the algae was gone. I still use the Oceanic with the lower Sal' and everything in my SPS tank is doing great...

Sounds like a relatively easy fix for Oceanic. All they simply have to do is put these instructions on their package. But, I have different results with those salinity levels. I always keep my tank between 1.023-1.024 and still had those problems.
 
I have been using Oceanic for about a year and have had no complaints....until this last bucket. I have never had a problem with maintaining dkh until now. I have to use a buffer everytime I do a water change. I also had a terrible algae outbreak when I first started this bucket. I didn't make the connection. ....until I changed salt when I ran out. The algae cleared up in just a few days. And I havent had to buffer at all since......so maybe it is the salt....but good question....which brand should I get next?
 
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