Proof that Oceanic Salt is BAD!!!!

i'm thinking of Tropic Marin, the pH has been stuck at 7.78 and I'd like to get something with a better pH. Do many people use this type of salt?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10748663#post10748663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by etrigo29
i'm thinking of Tropic Marin, the pH has been stuck at 7.78 and I'd like to get something with a better pH. Do many people use this type of salt?
I tried both TM and TM Pro I did not liked the low alkalinity (7 to 8 dKh) although the Pro has right levels of Calcium and Magnesium.
 
I use Oceanic and don't specifically have a problem with slime, not a big problem anyway. I do have slime in my water change bucket and that white stuff that collects at the bottom of it. It completely covers the pump in the bucket. My bucket is inside, covered, no lights. My problem is the CA. It is way too high and I can't get it to come down. I thought WC would do it, but it is not helping. I will be changing brands to see if that is the problem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10750029#post10750029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lmracing8l
I use Oceanic and don't specifically have a problem with slime, not a big problem anyway. I do have slime in my water change bucket and that white stuff that collects at the bottom of it. It completely covers the pump in the bucket. My bucket is inside, covered, no lights. My problem is the CA. It is way too high and I can't get it to come down. I thought WC would do it, but it is not helping. I will be changing brands to see if that is the problem.
Oceanic has high calcium and magnesium and low alkaliniy so if making water changes with it your calcium will not come down and could even make it worst.
 
My BC14 is about five weeks old and I just found this thread. I have been using Oceanic salt with grocery store RO water since the beginning.

From what I gather, Oceanic is high in calcium and low in alkalinity. In my testing, the calcium has always been high, 520+ ppm but the alk has also been high, around 10 dKH. pH is around 8.2. Aren't these parameters acceptable?

I did notice some sludge in the bottom of the mixing bucket I use.

I will probably switch to IO or Reef Crystals when I'm done with this container, but it will take a while.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10758346#post10758346 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pantala
My BC14 is about five weeks old and I just found this thread. I have been using Oceanic salt with grocery store RO water since the beginning.

From what I gather, Oceanic is high in calcium and low in alkalinity. In my testing, the calcium has always been high, 520+ ppm but the alk has also been high, around 10 dKH. pH is around 8.2. Aren't these parameters acceptable?

I did notice some sludge in the bottom of the mixing bucket I use.

I will probably switch to IO or Reef Crystals when I'm done with this container, but it will take a while.
Calcium normal range is 420 ppm, alkalinity is OK, are you adding any supplements or have a reactor?, I wonder if Oceanic is still low in alkalinity.
 
No supplements or reactor. I bought some Kent Marine Tech CB two-part in anticipation of supplementing, but haven't had to so far.
 
Pretty much every synthetic sea salt sucks for one reason or another. I use TM Pro reef and it has low alkalinity and contrary to what has been said before in this thread...low MG too.

I am hearing good things about Seachem Reef salt lately though.
 
yes, TMP has both low alk and very low mag. I have also heard that it has phosphates. I never tested new batches when i used it for phospates, but i can tell you I had hair algae and it is slowly dieing off now that I have switched to Red Sea Coral Pro, which i'm really liking so far.
 
I have used oceanic since i started and have never had a problem with it. Just the occasional green algae.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10758849#post10758849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pantala
No supplements or reactor. I bought some Kent Marine Tech CB two-part in anticipation of supplementing, but haven't had to so far.
Can you test the alkalinity of new water batch with Oceanic and report back? Seems unusual, just to be sure that there is not something else in your tank adding alkalinity.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10751003#post10751003 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Oceanic has high calcium and magnesium and low alkaliniy so if making water changes with it your calcium will not come down and could even make it worst.

This is true, I have heavy coraline growth as well as a few corals, so I wouldn't expect the Ca to drop very far, but I agree, it stays very high. When I first started saltwater I just stopped measuring the Ca since it was always high.
 
Just tested some water mixed last night: 10 dKH.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10759957#post10759957 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Can you test the alkalinity of new water batch with Oceanic and report back? Seems unusual, just to be sure that there is not something else in your tank adding alkalinity.

I know that high calcium and high alkalinity together are contradictory. At what levels does precipitation start occurring?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10761506#post10761506 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pantala
Just tested some water mixed last night: 10 dKH.



I know that high calcium and high alkalinity together are contradictory. At what levels does precipitation start occurring?
That is unusual.
Precipitation is also dependent on temperature and PH but these are examples of combinations were abiotic precipitation will start:

pH = 8.2..................................pH = 8.2
Calcium = 410 ppm..................Calcium = 820 ppm
Alkalinity = 5.0 meq/L..............Alkalinity = 2.5 meq/L

pH = 8.0...................................pH = 8.7
Calcium = 410 ppm...................Calcium = 410 ppm
Alkalinity = 8.0 meq/L................Alkalinity = 2.5 meq/L

pH = 8.45
Calcium = 410 ppm
Alkalinity = 4.2 meq/L
 
Wow, some threads never die. I always used NSW in the past, but am mixing my own this time around (NSW is not as cheap around here). Anyway, I went with Oceanic because of the cost. My mixing bucket gets a brown slime to it like people have reported in this post. I am going to switch to IO. I was considering RC, but it is too difficult to get in bulk without going through the Internet (although Drs F&S have it on sale, which makes me want to get it). I do like the quick spread of coralline I am seeing, but the mixing bucket thing bugs me. I am about a year away from reef, so I think IO will be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10781320#post10781320 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mavrk
Wow, some threads never die. I always used NSW in the past, but am mixing my own this time around (NSW is not as cheap around here). Anyway, I went with Oceanic because of the cost. My mixing bucket gets a brown slime to it like people have reported in this post. I am going to switch to IO. I was considering RC, but it is too difficult to get in bulk without going through the Internet (although Drs F&S have it on sale, which makes me want to get it). I do like the quick spread of coralline I am seeing, but the mixing bucket thing bugs me. I am about a year away from reef, so I think IO will be fine.
I tried both salts as well as the one I am using now Reef Crystals and have seen the brown film. In my opinion they are different, while the one in oceanic was more slimy and showed up one or two days after preparing the mix, the one in Oceanic and RC shows up as soon as it is dissolved and is more like mud or dirt. I think in the case of IO and RC, either the manufacturer might be using clay as an anticaking agent or the salt they use for the formulation has lots of dirt in it.
To clearly see the dirst try putting an airstone in the freshly mixed water and cover the bucket, the bubbles will skimm out the dirst and accumulate it on the underside of the cover, sweep it with a paper towel and you will see.
 
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