Protecting Drywall

[WarDaddy]

I am placing a couple hundred gallons of water in the garage, Lots of air stones, and I expect salt creep. I want to protect my drywall walls in the garage, and have the ability to rinse off the equipment and walls with water and not ruin my walls.

What should I put on my walls so they can handle that abuse that is headed their way?

I am looking at a product called GlasLiner, FRP Panels. they run $30 for a 8x4 panel. It will run me about $150 for the 20 x 8 section I want to protect. I am thinking for $150 I can buy a lot of Kiltz2 and put 3 coats of it on the wall (the wall is painted in normal flat paint)

What do you think is the best solution? What have you done, and why or why not would you do it again?

Thanks,

 

[RandyStacyE]

www.sanitred.com

It's approx $00.75 per sq' and as tough as a truck tire and 100% waterproof. Just 2 coats of PermaFlex.

Pics from their site:

 

[WarDaddy]

Randy, those arn't your arms????

Thanks for the link, that looks like what I need!

 

[wildcats]

Permaflex, is it paintable or will you be stuck with the coating as is should you decide to do something different. The liners would be removeable down the line and would be do the job as well. I'd go with the liner myself

 

[WarDaddy]

liner is not bad... Ugly, and has that rubber odor... hummm. Would be cheap enough, 10' x 20' should be pretty cheap to buy...Do they make them white?

 

[RandyStacyE]

It's brushed or rolled on and you can paint over it.

I was told "think of it as painting on a permanently bonded liquid truck tire" or something like that. It is that tough though.

The problem with a liner is that you have seams. If you want to glue it flat to the wall, you have to rely on an adhesive. If you don't mind an adhesive on your walls, why not a permanent coating and just be done with it?

Physical fasteners could work I suppose, but after the cost of a liner the physical fasteners could get pretty costly.

The Sani-Tred products can actually be used to seal the walls and where the wall meets the floor to literally waterproof the room to be 'like a wash stall'. It's also a permanent garage floor coating, but we're only talkin about garage walls here.

 

[annewayne]

I would personally bite the bullet and buy FRP, it is easy to clean and maintain, i would'nt trust any drywall around moisture or salt creep.

 

[rivdog]

what is frp. i know u can buy acrylic panels for a shower surround. easily cut and installed, and waqtertight with a good caulk job. No matter what, the fiberglass or acrylic wall panels will out last the kilz, and be easier to maintain. Just use a good shower and bathe silicone to seal it well

 

[BeanAnimal]

Bah! I would just paint it well and save my money

Look at the beating outdoor paint takes and how long it lasts under extreme temperature changes and direct UV exposure.

We paint the average bathroom with indoor paint don't we? How many bathrooms have you seen with water damaged drywall (that was not due to a leaky tub or tile backsplash or surround).

I mean the humidity will be a bit higher in there but you are not building a steam room

You also have to consider that adding a "vapor barrier" to the outside of the wall may create problems inside of the wall if there is another vapor barrier sandwiched someplace in the wall construction.

Bean

 

[reeferman75]

FRP is Fiberglass renforced panel they are used in just about every resturant in the US. They are 100% moistur prof. If you can budget it they go for it . You will not be sorry. Another pro about frp is you can wipe them down with a damp rag and they are clean as new.

 

[hllywd]

Meards here has FRP and Plastex @ $20. The Plastex is smoother and doesn't have the bubble texture. I used a sheet as my TV screen but that's another story...

Personally I'm not big on drywall in the garage. I use OSB with an oil based primer then spray on a coat of gloss exterior latex (I've never used anytrhing but white). This makes tough garage walls. If the drywall is already there paint it the same way, caulk it really good where it meets the sill plate and it should be fine. Bottom line is treat it like an exterior surface.

Tim

 

[douggiestyle]

for cheap fast and easy check out paneling. there is cheap bathroom paneling available. it usualy has a melamine surface with a tile embossing. cheap, $20 for a 4x8 sheet? easy, two or three screws across the top. fast, as quick as you can put in the screws. and if you want to remove it, remove the screws and your done. you could also use a thin sheet of plexiglass in the same manner. would be a bit more expensive. i am using a piece of corrugated plastic. the kind that is used for waterproof signs. available at craft stores. i used it because i already owned it. still have a few sheats. black. great for garage sales and what not. use a white window marker, the kind like auto dealers use. anyways i got off the subject.

three coats of indoor latex paint did not work for me, my wall behind the sump was destroyed. the salt does something to the gypson makes it expand and actually get harder. had to use 80 grit sand paper to level it out before applying a top coat of plaster. exterior paint and more coats may have worked.

 

[saltydude]

I use a large pieci of plexy glass. You can get it from homedepot.

 

[douggiestyle]

just realized you are doing a huge space 20x8. id go with the frp. use the correct adhesive and seal corners and seams with approved sealent/caulking and moldings. especialy if you wish to be able to hose things down.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I am nto sure why all the waterproofing is needed... like I said this is not a steam room

 

[douggiestyle]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9230979#post9230979 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I am nto sure why all the waterproofing is needed... like I said this is not a steam room

i agree, but as he mentioned rinsing off the walls, it depends on what that means. its wiping down with a damp cloth vs using a hose.

 

[RandyStacyE]

Any sheeting @ $20.00 per sheet (not including tax) would break down to approx $00.63 per sq' (not including tax). On top of that it sounds like you'll need caulk, adhesives and moldings/trims (if desired to help waterproof the seams.

It just seems (to me) that a tough seamless monolithic waterproof coating would be much easier, less expensive and less time consuming especially considering that drywall may already exist. If you already have smooth and seamless walls, why not coat them and still have smooth, seamless and waterproof walls.

This topic does interest me too because I'll be making fish rooms behind two false walls in my game room. I've been reading into the Sanitred site for quite a while for sealing the fish room and a plywood tank or two.

 

[BeanAnimal]

It would not bother me to hose down outdoor paint once in a while

 

[douggiestyle]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9231303#post9231303 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
It would not bother me to hose down outdoor paint once in a while

good point, with a good seal at bottom. maybe some vinyl cove.

i would still apply some type of protector (other than paint) where the tank is close to the wall and constant salt spray would occur.



bean, wanna go skiing?

 

[WarDaddy]

Well, I have started...

I opted to apply 2 layers of Kilz Oil Based (odorless) sealer. After that I will apply 2 coats of oil based enamel. Total cost of that application will be about $40 for 2 gallons of paint, and I should have enough left to paint the stands I need to build.

I will caulk all seams real well after the sealing coats and before the enamel. I just do not have the money to drop on the panels at this time.

FWIW, the garage is all finished (new construction) with normal drywall. Lucky for me, this house has a 18" concrete foundation. That makes the garage set down 6" into the foundation. This is nice because the drywall is 6" off the floor, making hose out cleanings nice and easy.

As for cleaning walls, a damp rag will have to do....

Now, who wants to come over and help me build some counter current air driven skimmers?