Pukani Dry Rock Cure/Cycle???

bereleah

New member
So im all confused,its been a week since i added the rock into my new tank also added the live sand at the same time, im reading so many different comments about what to add to speed up the process. Some say add bio spira, some say dont, some say add ammonia, some say dont. In any case i do have bio spira on hand what would bee the fastest root to finish the cycle and be able to add some life to the tank?
 
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Adding bio spira will speed up the process. The dead organics breaking down from the rocks will supply ammonia to kick start your cycle. If you have a lfs, buying already cycled live rock will also speed up the process.
 
test test test. if/when you see your nitrates as the only measureable number then you're ready to screw up the next phase! :lol:
 
I've been reading up on this a lot as I'm thinking of restarting a reef tank. The rock you used is the same rock I have looked at. So maybe my understanding of curing is wrong, and if so I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me. Which will be good so I get a better understanding, but will probably leave me with Pukani all over my face.

This type of rock, from all the posts I have read, is full of Phosphates. It is all trapped inside the rock so a vast majority of people recommend curing the rock first. And I understand curing to be the same as cooking. This might be where I have it mixed up.

But if I'm correct, curing is basically sitting this rock in a vat/tub/trashcan of water with a pump for flow, RO/DI salt water, and waiting for it to leach out all these phosphates. The rock can cure for as little as 4 weeks and be good, or upwards of 2-3 months. Some have even gone longer. They also use a product called LC to speed up this curing process.

If you skip this step, my understanding is that in a few months you are possibly going to be dealing with a huge algae problem that could literally take a year or more to get rid of. This is just reading past experiences, so don't panic yet, it is not a definite thing, but something I really took into account so it won't happen to me.

People have cured the rock in their tank, but I think GFO was required, and from my understanding, the leaching was so great, that gets very expensive to use instead of the LC method. Problem with the LC method in a tank, it is tough to get all that stuff out. It sticks to the glass, you will be doing massive water changes to remove it, so water/salt becomes a cost factor. And since the tank isn't really completely dark you might still get some hair algae or blooms on the sand.

It really seemed like a better method to me to do this outside of the tank and since you just started, it wouldn't be to late to think about doing this.

Once all that is done, and since you went through buying the dry rock, you can have the time to build a really nice aquascape setup. This rock is easy to cut, drill, carve out caves, etc, so why not take advantage of that. You could build a structure, then cure it in a bin, when all the phosphates are pretty much gone, move it to the tank and begin the cycle. It might even halfway start the cycle inside the bins, so that is why I would recommend the aquascaping first. Just to prevent as little of the bacteria which might have come alive from dying while you have it all sitting on the floor in your design mode.

And as fur cycling, that is just the build-up of the bacteria in the rock to deal with your ammonia/nitrite/nitrate cycle. I don't think it is the same thing as curing, at least it didn't read that way to me. Two different things.

Yes, they can technically be done together in the tank, but I don't plan on taking the risk and fighting some hair algae outbreak from all the leached phosphates which are more than likely there and waiting to be set free.

But I eagerly await to see if what I read and put together in my own mind is actually right. Better to find out now than after the fact and I screw stuff up.
 
If your going to cure the rock, do it in plain RO/DI. Theres a huge thread over in the reef chemistry section about how to go about curing(ridding the rock of phosphates) pukani using Lathanum chloride(LC).

Otherwise your just wasting salt.


FYI curing the rock and cycling the rock are 2 totally different things.
 
If using LC though you could cure and cycle at the same time using saltwater and adding some source of food for the bacteria.
 
If using LC though you could cure and cycle at the same time using saltwater and adding some source of food for the bacteria.

True, but have you ever done it?

The LC makes such a mess I found it easier to use LC and plain RO/DI. Then cycle the rock in the tank once cured.
 
True, but have you ever done it?

The LC makes such a mess I found it easier to use LC and plain RO/DI. Then cycle the rock in the tank once cured.

Doing it right now but off to the side in it's own container. Wish I did it before too. I started using Pukani dry rock before it was well known to be full of phosphates. Now that made a mess of the aquarium with GHA. Made for a good learning experience though.
 
Doing it right now but off to the side in it's own container. Wish I did it before too. I started using Pukani dry rock before it was well known to be full of phosphates. Now that made a mess of the aquarium with GHA. Made for a good learning experience though.

Tell me about it! I cured my pukani with LC but totally not enough as the last year has been a huge battle with GHA.
 
If your going to cure the rock, do it in plain RO/DI. Theres a huge thread over in the reef chemistry section about how to go about curing(ridding the rock of phosphates) pukani using Lathanum chloride(LC).

Otherwise your just wasting salt.


FYI curing the rock and cycling the rock are 2 totally different things.

Interesting. I thought i read it needed calcium to work, hence ro/di water alone was no good and why they said to use salt water. I have definitely missed whatever thread you are referring too. I didn't see it at a quick glance in the reef chemistry forum. Might you know the title line I could search and find this specific one?
 
After rereading a bit of the thread, I remember where I got the idea to just use plain RO/DI.

Seaclear(the product most of us are using) is a pool chemical used to remove phosphates from pools. Your pool isn't salt water, so why would one need salt water for LC to work?

When I was researching I remember reading that you should use salt water, but found many other threads about just using plain old RO/DI. When I did mine, I had plenty of "scum" on the water surface(LC precipitate). I believe(if memory serves me right) it will work in RO/DI, but it's faster in salt water. If your not in a hurry and money is a concern, plain RO/DI works just fine.
 
Interesting. I thought i read it needed calcium to work, hence ro/di water alone was no good and why they said to use salt water. I have definitely missed whatever thread you are referring too. I didn't see it at a quick glance in the reef chemistry forum. Might you know the title line I could search and find this specific one?

It doesn't require Ca. But LaCL3 will bind with both Phosphates and Carbonates which will reduce the alkalinity of the water.
 
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