Q: RBTA in my 10G?

[LJA]

I setup a little 10G AIO with a currentUSA 40 watt fixture resting about 1/2" above the water line. This little powerhouse fixture has a 50/50 powercompact (10k and 460nm). With the fixture resting at the water line and with my rockwork/sandbed the proposed anemone would be no more than maybe 6-8" away from the light.

When I had this tank previously setup, I was able to support various LPS (frogspawn, favia, plate, acan E and others) as well as montipora with this 40w light.

Do you guys think I could support a RBTA or any other type of anemone under this light?

 

[LJA]

36 views, anybody?

 

[CoralsAddiction]

Q: RBTA in my 10G?

I wouldn't. Not bc some website or book says they need X number is gallons but bc it can be very challenging to keep water quality clean and stable in that size tank. I would focus on caring for the corals you already have in that limited amount of space.

 

[Dmorty217]

More importantly the RBTA will grow to touch all sides of your 10g. The one I have split and the one would still be too big for your 10g. If all you want is a RBTA then yes, if you would like other things then no

 

[LJA]

I wouldn't. Not bc some website or book says they need X number is gallons but bc it can be very challenging to keep water quality clean and stable in that size tank. I would focus on caring for the corals you already have in that limited amount of space.

Thanks for the input. As far as water cleanliness; nutrient export, I have a nano customs skimmer running that works surprisingly well for its size. I also have about 15# of real nice live rock from my old tank, so the tank itself is seeded really well. I also do a 20% water change (2gallons) a week. I feel pretty confident I can maintain stable and clean parameters in this small tank. My main concern in the lighting.

 

[LJA]

More importantly the RBTA will grow to touch all sides of your 10g. The one I have split and the one would still be too big for your 10g. If all you want is a RBTA then yes, if you would like other things then no

I plan on purchaing a small one (about ~2inches). I've heard of people fragging them but I suppose if it got too big I would either trade it or attemp fragging it.

Thanks for the input.

so the 40w light should be enough?

 

[mcfa2403]

Will it survive? Probably for a few months. Will it thrive? Most likely not.

The water changes and skimmer are significant but one bad batch of salt in that volume could kill your nem. The lights are only enough to support it for a couple of months before it declines. Fragging BTA is difficult and very stressful on the nem and with insufficient lighting it likely will struggle to recover. If the nem dies while you are not immediately near by there is a good chance that you will lose everything in the tank.

Can you do it? I guess, its your tank. But I have had this argument with a member before. If you want to do it, it is possible but you are talking about 24/7 care and constant (like 2x a week) massive water changes (50-100% with consistent readings on calc, alk, mag, pH, nitrate, nitrite, phospahte, ammonia, salinity and temp) so it is not realistic to do in a display tank.

Keep in mind that your lights are significantly under-powered and that in small volume temp and chemical shifts happen too easily. I give it 75% chance to last 3 months, 25% 6 months and no chance to last a year (and that is assuming you are an expert reefer) without significant changes in your tank maintenance and equipment.

 

[LJA]

Will it survive? Probably for a few months. Will it thrive? Most likely not.

The water changes and skimmer are significant but one bad batch of salt in that volume could kill your nem. The lights are only enough to support it for a couple of months before it declines. Fragging BTA is difficult and very stressful on the nem and with insufficient lighting it likely will struggle to recover. If the nem dies while you are not immediately near by there is a good chance that you will lose everything in the tank.

Can you do it? I guess, its your tank. But I have had this argument with a member before. If you want to do it, it is possible but you are talking about 24/7 care and constant (like 2x a week) massive water changes (50-100% with consistent readings on calc, alk, mag, pH, nitrate, nitrite, phospahte, ammonia, salinity and temp) so it is not realistic to do in a display tank.

Keep in mind that your lights are significantly under-powered and that in small volume temp and chemical shifts happen too easily. I give it 75% chance to last 3 months, 25% 6 months and no chance to last a year (and that is assuming you are an expert reefer) without significant changes in your tank maintenance and equipment.

Could you have been more straightforward with your recommendation please? Just kidding. :lol:

I understand the necessity of stability and how that it is exaggerated in the nano-marine environment as well as how small errors such as those in dosing can caused amplified consequences. Having a BTA in a nano is certainly not a new idea I'm proposing to do here I don't think...

I feel as though much of what you said is hyperbole. 24/7 care, constant readings on parameters, 50-100% water changes twice a week?

The problems with massive shifts of parameters is more likely to happen with constant tinkering and over the top, huge percentage changes in the water column. This is unhealthy, and forgive me for being being blunt, bad advice.

I've successfully operated a sps/lps nano before, I'm no expert by any long shot but I feel comfortable in my level of reef keeping. I have never kept an anemone before and would like to pursue one - that is why I'm researching it, in part by asking questions here. This is also why my question was focused on the lighting aspect of care.

I would like to know if my current lighting, along with supplemental feeding, is enough to provide a happy environment for a RBTA. As I understand it, RBTA's don't have the high light requirements that other anemones do.

Thanks for your input.

 

[raythepilot]

OK I've been keeping BTAs in 10 gallon tanks for 5 years. What you need:

Light density: 50 PAR or approximately 2000 LUX. Measure it with a light meter at the level of the nem.

Water quality: Change 2 x 25% per week siphon debris for tank with each water change.

Feeding: Small portions once or twice a week

Growth rate: You will have to divide the nem about every 4 - 6 months.

None of this is hyperbole it is what a I do. You have to be able to make really good water with a salinity of 35.0 +/- 0.2 PPT and temperature of +/- 0.2 deg. C so you can do massive water changes. I often do 100% water changes when working with anemone without damaging them.

 

[LJA]

OK I've been keeping BTAs in 10 gallon tanks for 5 years. What you need:

Light density: 50 PAR or approximately 2000 LUX. Measure it with a light meter at the level of the nem.

Water quality: Change 2 x 25% per week siphon debris for tank with each water change.

Feeding: Small portions once or twice a week

Growth rate: You will have to divide the nem about every 4 - 6 months.

None of this is hyperbole it is what a I do. You have to be able to make really good water with a salinity of 35.0 +/- 0.2 PPT and temperature of +/- 0.2 deg. C so you can do massive water changes. I often do 100% water changes when working with anemone without damaging them.

Thanks so much, this is the type of info I was looking for. Now I need to find some par readings for my fixture or borrow a meter.