QT fish not eating

[Jade5051]

So, I cycled a 20 long. Dropped 4 fish in it...I was even thinking this is dumb but I did it anyways. The fish were...a 1" cherub angel, a 2.5" starry blenny, 3" male lyretail anthias and a 3" kole tang. The LFS I got them from runs copper in their tanks so I dosed copper on day one to 0.3 and haven't dosed anymore since. All fish were fine for 24 hours but no one was eating. 48 hours goes by and cherub dies. I tested the ammonia it had spiked to just above 0.5. I did 3 10-15% water changes and dosing amquel on days 2, 3 and 5 its now around 0.25. I haven't retested the copper but it should be pretty low I'd guess somewhere around 0.1 to 0.2. This is day 6 the tang is eating algae sheets. The blenny is eating it too but also taking flakes. The Anthias is not eating. It will mouth the food but then spit it out. Suggestions?

 

[Newsmyrna80]

You can not dose an ammonia detoxifier with copper. It is lethal. You may also be dealing with a disease which can be masked by low levels of copper. Also there are fish that are sensitive to copper, one being angels.

 

[caribfan]

First things first, stress is a huge reason why many of our fish don't eat in captivity, especially right away. I believe these fish were exposed to a high level of stress.

Was / Is there any kind of biological filtration on the 20G?

Why was the copper concentration increaseed so quickly?

Why was the copper treatment started the first place?

Without question, never use an ammonia detoxifier with copper.

Suggestions:

1. Unless ich is present, put a bag of carbon on the system. Wait to start treatment until the fish are eating and comfortable in their surroundings.

2. Do a 50% water change. If your ammonia level was a 0.5 and you did a 10% water chance, you effectively took it from 0.5 to 0.45. A 50% water chance would have taken it from 0.5 to 0.25. When dealing with ammonia and reduction of concentrations, large water changes always make a much bigger difference.

3. If you don't have a biological filter on the system, get one. Find some cultured media from a LFS or a buddy with a tank.

4. Glad the Tang and Blenny are eating, not surprised the anthias is not. I don't know what foods you are providing, but Anthias need meaty options. Spirulina brine, or a good quality mysis should help to entice it.

The most important thing you can do is reduce stress and get your water quality right and stable. Worry about preventative treatment after that, unless you have an aggressive outbreak of disease. Good luck.

 

[Jade5051]

Thanks for the guidance.

 

[Ginger bay]

First things first, stress is a huge reason why many of our fish don't eat in captivity, especially right away. I believe these fish were exposed to a high level of stress.

Was / Is there any kind of biological filtration on the 20G?

Why was the copper concentration increaseed so quickly?

Why was the copper treatment started the first place?

Without question, never use an ammonia detoxifier with copper.

Suggestions:

1. Unless ich is present, put a bag of carbon on the system. Wait to start treatment until the fish are eating and comfortable in their surroundings.

2. Do a 50% water change. If your ammonia level was a 0.5 and you did a 10% water chance, you effectively took it from 0.5 to 0.45. A 50% water chance would have taken it from 0.5 to 0.25. When dealing with ammonia and reduction of concentrations, large water changes always make a much bigger difference.

3. If you don't have a biological filter on the system, get one. Find some cultured media from a LFS or a buddy with a tank.

4. Glad the Tang and Blenny are eating, not surprised the anthias is not. I don't know what foods you are providing, but Anthias need meaty options. Spirulina brine, or a good quality mysis should help to entice it.

The most important thing you can do is reduce stress and get your water quality right and stable. Worry about preventative treatment after that, unless you have an aggressive outbreak of disease. Good luck.

Great write-up.

Even with a cycled tank with good biological bacteria gtowth, copper can wipe out the beneficial bacteria and your tank starts cycling again. From what I heard CP and PraziPro is a milder treatment during quarantine. Many suggest a formulin dip before placing new fishes onto QT.

 

[caribfan]

Thanks for the guidance.

I killed a lot of fish early on in my saltwater days by not doing the basics and trying to rush things.

I was just talking to my brother in law about this because it took him nearly 4 years of keeping saltwater fish before he started properly quarantining.

I started when I was sixteen and probably didn't have a quarantine tank until I was 23.

Get your bio filter set up and start feeding a quality meaty food source and things should turn around for you. Keep the algae sheets going for the tang.

 

[caribfan]

Great write-up.

Even with a cycled tank with good biological bacteria gtowth, copper can wipe out the beneficial bacteria and your tank starts cycling again. From what I heard CP and PraziPro is a milder treatment during quarantine. Many suggest a formulin dip before placing new fishes onto QT.

Thanks.

fWIW, I've never had cupramine wipe out my beneficial bacteria and I've treated every fish I own with it, including a puffer, many angels and butterflies and an Achilles tang.

Done right, cupramine is a very effective and safe treatment.