QT for Ick

hkgar

Active member
I am about to start stocking fish for my 180. I will be using a QT for the new fish, but because of an Ick outbreak that wiped out 7 fish I added in January, I am a bit paranoid.

My plan is to introduce the new fish into the QT and than go to Hypo for 4 weeks. This seems to be the recommended time period in the stickies I have read. But, some say 8 weeks is necessary. The QT will be bare of anything but the fish. I will run an Aquaclear HOB filter and skimmer and a small power head. The QT is a 20 gallon.

I have also thought about doing the QT and treating with Copper (Cupramine), but have some concerns about that because 2 or 3 of the new fish will be Angels.

Any advice as to the best way to go will be much appreciated.
 
Angels are safe with copper, just use a lower dose and follow some more rules. However; I'd use tank-transfer for ich; especially if you've never used copper. The sticky at the top of the disease forum explains it. Its safe, easy and goof-proof. After TT, observe closely for any signs of velvet or brooklynella. IMO, hypo is "iffy" at best. I don't know why, it used to work very well.
 
Most if not all angels can take Copper, if greater accuracy is needed.

Your plan is in general not well enough thought out.

Some people like TT but I don't, but when ich infestation has not happened in DT, TT is at least an option. (If ich is already in DT, then TT is not an option.) I will leave TT alone for the moment.

Your first task is to cycle very well enough medium so as to make sure that there will be no ammonia in QT. The medium better not be any rock, but more compact forms.

I always use UV to reduce the chance of external bacterial infection during QT. To me a UV is necessary, but I'll leave this alone. UV is NOT effective against ich.

I always actively treat against ich for at least 10 weeks, sometimes 14 or more weeks as I get lazy a bit. When you have a very well cycled tank and UV effectively running, a QT is low maintenance and I need to do very little. I won't say 8 weeks is not a good enough length, just that I go longer and have not have ich for over 30 years.

You also have to take into consideration the nitrification capacity (the population of nit bacteria) in the DT. If you are going to QT each fish at a time, it will take half a year to stock a medium sized tank, in general. In such a period, many of the bacteria you have grown during cycling of the DT will have died due to lack of ammonia.

You have to provide excess bacteria in each time that you add a fish to DT after more than two months of QT.
 
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I qt WITH COPPER POWER ,I adjust the qt salinity to that of the LFS and then move it where I want it . usually 1015 if they are at 1.020, or 1.020 if they are at 1025 from the store. I maintain water temps at 82, no skimming since it removes copper , I siphon the bottom as needed and water change and replace copper in the freshly made sea water. IF a external parasite outbreak developes I raise water temps to 85F , aerate heavily .After 3 weeks I transfer them to another qt with copper power at 82F and slowly bring the salinity equal to that of the DT OVER THE NEXT 3 TO 4 WEEKS. UV IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA IMO feed, FEED, FEED. If DISEASE REAPPEARS raise temps and lower salinity in severe infestations Ill go as low as 1.010 for 2 days and the very slowly go back up . You can lower salinity fast but you must increase it slowly. qt periods can be as long as ninety days.
best wishes
 
I always use a UV, and my fish ALWAYS get over their ick. The UV kills all free floating ick. Good feeding, healthy fish and they can overcome the ick. Use garlic and selcon to give vitamins and boost appetites. I dont believe in the hypo treatement, but I also dont believe in the medications either. Just make sure the fish is not infected before putting in the DT, and its eating well.
 
I always use a UV, and my fish ALWAYS get over their ick. The UV kills all free floating ick. Good feeding, healthy fish and they can overcome the ick. Use garlic and selcon to give vitamins and boost appetites. I dont believe in the hypo treatement, but I also dont believe in the medications either. Just make sure the fish is not infected before putting in the DT, and its eating well.

Hopefully when we purchase fish they are eating and free from visible parasites. The qt period is to [disinfect if you will]from parasites that may be present but not yet causing full blown disease. Qt also allows you time to condition the fish and increase its confidence ,immunity and adjust to life in a fish tank. If one avoids the QT he will eventually infect all the fish in the DT
I agree that fish can overcome ick infestations, but they are not cured .UV will not kill 100% of the free swimming stage some will make it back to the fish. Adding a new fish to a tank with a subclinical ick infestation increase the likelyhood of an outbreak . ICK is only one parasite lets not forget about oodinium and brooklynella. Not beliving in meds or hypo treatment doesn't invalidate the cure they provide. what will you do if your fish develope disease?Be careful
 
I always use a UV, and my fish ALWAYS get over their ick. The UV kills all free floating ick. Good feeding, healthy fish and they can overcome the ick. Use garlic and selcon to give vitamins and boost appetites. I dont believe in the hypo treatement, but I also dont believe in the medications either. Just make sure the fish is not infected before putting in the DT, and its eating well.

Why don't you believe in Hypo treatment? It seems to be safe and effective when done right.

All the info I have been reading regarding UV treatment for Ick seems to conclude that it is not and can not be 100% effective. Maybe you have been lucky as I was for over 8 years of introducing new fish, but let me tell you, one outbreak that devastates all the fish in your tank can change your attitude. I thought I was bullet proof, but the odds soon caught up with me.

Maybe I can understand not believing in medication treatment, but meds work when done properly and with caution.

I would rather use Hypo when treating prophylactically and not meds.
 
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