QT healthy fish that have immunity

m0nkie

Well-known member
Hi guys. I have decided to upgrade tank to a 650gal. This means no more slacking off QT. New rule will be 100% QT and absolutely only clean fish goes in. Nothing wet touches the tank without QT. I'm setting up a QT rack in the garage away from main DT. It will have a 100gal for new arrival + medication and several 40gal for TTM

with that in mind.. I need a plan to pro-actively QT my current fish. All current fish have been with me for over a year. Healthy and fat.

- I know they have ich, I've seen it before. so I will TTM before they go into the DT.

- I know a few wrasse survived fluke before. Had a near wipe out a year ago that killed some Angels, but all wrasse survived. How do I treat this?

- I have seen white stringy poop. But I have treated whole tank with Prazi. I will Prazi again just in case.

The current plan is to put all fish into an empty 100gal. use any medication that I need. Afterwards, TTM into new DT. Is there anything else you guys suggest I do?? Any medication I should add?

thanks!
 
White stingy poop is usually a sign of some sort of internal bacteria infection. During the TTM, I would suggest to dose Prazi-Pro, during the 2nd and 3rd transfers.
 
My QT regimen is formalin bath, TTM, Prazi during TTM. Then I keep them in a QT tank for a month of observation. I have fish in Qt right now that have gone through everything and have shown no signs of disease through the whole process. I will still keep them in a QT tank for a month of observation to be sure though.
 
ok thanks!

I already planned to Prazi during TTM.

I will add formalin bath to the procedure. Any other suggested pro-active medications?

my current QT procedure is usually 2 weeks in QT. once eating normal, I will start medication as needed. Then TTM.

now I plan to keep them in QT for 2 weeks. Formalin bath. Prazi dose. QT for another month. then TTM into DT.

thanks!
 
White stringy poo does not necessarily indicate intestinal parasites like nematodes or trematodes (flukes). More common causes are actually bowel inflammations, intestinal bacterial infections (which often accompany intestinal parasites) or certain foods (brine shrimp) which cause bowel inflammation. General Cure may help in case of an infection.
 
...
my current QT procedure is usually 2 weeks in QT. once eating normal, I will start medication as needed. Then TTM.

now I plan to keep them in QT for 2 weeks. Formalin bath. Prazi dose. QT for another month. then TTM into DT.

one month is not enough.

My new fish procedure is as follows:
1. formalin dip
2. 8 weeks observation
treatment as needed, but only after I have a good idea of what parasite or disease they may have. Random treatments can do more harm than good.

In your case, with established fish, I would start with a formalin bath (just for good measure) and then do TTM (with PraziPro if you want). After that I would observe for 8 weeks.

If you are paranoid about ich you may want to do TTM at hyposalinity (1.009).

If you are really paranoid about ich you can also do a second round of TTM (here with full salinity) after the 8 weeks, before putting the fish into the DT.
 
I'm getting to the point of REALLY REALLY paranoid. QT just seem to fail after awhile. but ich is not bad to deal with. I can live with ich. Sucks!, but with healthy fish i rarely see ich pop up.. I am more afraid of other things like Fluke or Velvet that wipes the tank.

I may TTM the fish into QT. then TTM them out of QT. double security.

I will increase observation time to 2 months. So with initial settling in and TTM, it will be full 3 month QT. I have a full 100gal running for that now so not worried about space.
 
Ich is really the tricky part as there is so far no guarantee that it can't lay dormant (encysted) for longer than the so far proven 3 months. So adding any invert or rock poses a possible risk.

I chose to take every possible precaution against velvet and the other nasties, but take my chances with ich.
 
Ich is really the tricky part as there is so far no guarantee that it can't lay dormant (encysted) for longer than the so far proven 3 months. So adding any invert or rock poses a possible risk.



I chose to take every possible precaution against velvet and the other nasties, but take my chances with ich.



Right. You can treat the fish as you have planned, but unless you quarantine everything else wet without fish for 3 months, then you will re-introduce ich into the tank. Every time you add a frag, rock or rubble, snails, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ya.. and then you hear stuff like airborne ich that travels from room to room.. holy crap ich is like the ocean cockroach..
 
ya.. and then you hear stuff like airborne ich that travels from room to room.. holy crap ich is like the ocean cockroach..

That's just nonsense. A neighboring tank maybe, if the infection is really serious and you use airstones that send droplets into the air, but to another room - highly unlikely.
 
ahh ok. I remember first hearing it from snorvich. Then someone suggested they can travel across the room into another tank. I had my QT tanks in the same room as my DT. now the QT go into the garage
 
ahh ok. I remember first hearing it from snorvich. Then someone suggested they can travel across the room into another tank. I had my QT tanks in the same room as my DT. now the QT go into the garage

i have seen him state this as 7 - 10 feet in the form of aerosolized water droplets. if i recall correctly this comes from citing a specific paper that looked in to the subject. i'll see if i can track it down at some point, i know i've seen it somewhere before.
 
the aerosol exposure likely comes from spitting water more than evaporation, IMO. perhaps evaporation can transfer it, but I'd think air bubbles popping are more of the culprit. i put an acrylic sheet just above my air bubbles in QT to prevent that.

seems like luck would have to be far from on your side if you succumbed to aerosol transfer of any kind.
 
i have seen him state this as 7 - 10 feet in the form of aerosolized water droplets. if i recall correctly this comes from citing a specific paper that looked in to the subject. i'll see if i can track it down at some point, i know i've seen it somewhere before.

Yes, it's from a paper about Amyloodinium.
But to get this you need to have a really serious infection to get a statistically likelihood of infective stages making it into a droplet. And for it to travel that far you need some draft to carry the droplets before they evaporate.

I would generally advise against the use of airstones as method of aeration to be on the safe side.
Rather use pumps. Small pumps are cheap and even the tiniest Jebao fountain pump for less than $10 is fine for a 10 gallon tank.
 
Yes, it's from a paper about Amyloodinium.
But to get this you need to have a really serious infection to get a statistically likelihood of infective stages making it into a droplet. And for it to travel that far you need some draft to carry the droplets before they evaporate.

I would generally advise against the use of airstones as method of aeration to be on the safe side.
Rather use pumps. Small pumps are cheap and even the tiniest Jebao fountain pump for less than $10 is fine for a 10 gallon tank.
Yeah I'll make no claims as to the likelihood, just the possibility.

For me, I like air stones for my TTM tanks because they're cheap. So I don't need to worry about cleaning them for the next xfer, I just chuck them out when I'm done.
 
Back
Top