QT salinity

As most lfs and wholesalers keep it around 1.019 I match that initially. I actually test the water the fish come in and adjust to be very close. To lower salinity helps fish deal with a varity if possible issues. When planing to move to my display I do a couple of water changes eith water taken from my display tank, slowly raising the salinity to match over 2 days or so.
 
As most lfs and wholesalers keep it around 1.019 I match that initially. I actually test the water the fish come in and adjust to be very close. To lower salinity helps fish deal with a varity if possible issues. When planing to move to my display I do a couple of water changes eith water taken from my display tank, slowly raising the salinity to match over 2 days or so.

^^^ this.

i use a small insulin syringe to sample the bag water. match my QT salinity to that, then gradually raise it over time, duration contingent on how far apart they are, until it matches my DT.
 
QT salinity

My LFS keeps their stock at 1.020 so I mix to that when QTing new fish. I gradually raise it to match my DT (currently 1.025) once I want to transfer them.

If I am using my QT as a HT as I am at the moment I match my QT to the DT salinity. If I was keeping fish in HT for an extended period I would gradually lower it to 1.020 to assist in the rehabilitation, then gradually raise it back up again when healthy before transferring to the DT. At the moment I am hoping for a fairly quick recovery so will keep it at DT salinity throughout.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Assuming it's a fish that can tolerate hyposalinity, I typically start them off at hypo levels (IIRC around 11-12 ppt). There are therapeutic benefits to this and it is also cheaper when you're doing water changes. Fish can handle a rapid drop in a salinity (so no big deal if the LFS had 1.019). It's on the way back up that you have to be more careful.
 
Assuming it's a fish that can tolerate hyposalinity, I typically start them off at hypo levels (IIRC around 11-12 ppt). There are therapeutic benefits to this and it is also cheaper when you're doing water changes. Fish can handle a rapid drop in a salinity (so no big deal if the LFS had 1.019). It's on the way back up that you have to be more careful.

so basically your QT is already at 1.009 when introducing your fish?
 
and this is safe?

It is. I'd still float the bag in the QT water and replace their bag water with QT water in stages to acclimate them a bit. But in general hypo during QT is quite safe if done properly. Also need to be careful with combining with certain meds (prazipro is okay but I'm pretty sure copper is a no-no during hypo).
 
It is. I'd still float the bag in the QT water and replace their bag water with QT water in stages to acclimate them a bit. But in general hypo during QT is quite safe if done properly. Also need to be careful with combining with certain meds (prazipro is okay but I'm pretty sure copper is a no-no during hypo).

yeah, I am considering just going hypo with my autotoppoff.. maybe prazipro also.. my qt in uninhabited at the moment @ 1.019 but If i can just drop it to 1.009, then i might as well just do that and keep it there
 
My QT is at 1.019 (same as shipping salinity) and I use meds only when needed, as needed.
Hypo, while effective on Ick, is stil an unnatural environment for fish.

With QT at 1.019, the bag only needs temp matching, as shipping salinity is equal or higher.

The less changes are always the better route IMO. Why take them down farther in salinity. If your treating for Ick hypo is great but that's ALL hypo does.

The only salinity changes for my fish is from 1.019, up .001 daily, until 1.025 which is DT.
 
My QT is at 1.019 (same as shipping salinity) and I use meds only when needed, as needed.
Hypo, while effective on Ick, is stil an unnatural environment for fish.

With QT at 1.019, the bag only needs temp matching, as shipping salinity is equal or higher.

The less changes are always the better route IMO. Why take them down farther in salinity. If your treating for Ick hypo is great but that's ALL hypo does.

The only salinity changes for my fish is from 1.019, up .001 daily, until 1.025 which is DT.
So qt at 1.019 and observe fish for a month unless hypo is needed is a better strat?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
So qt at 1.019 and observe fish for a month unless hypo is needed is a better strat?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Is in my thinking.
A fish can have many or no issues when you get them.
Before I can treat, I want to have some idea what I am trying to fix.
Many use a wide spectrum product in the hopes it fixes what's wrong, even though they don't no what's wrong if anything. I might employ this thinking if the fish is purchased on line, rather than at the LFS.

Spend your QT time.
-observing both the look and behaviour of your fish.
-maintain a stress free environment
-feed well high protein foods.

Hypo I might use if I detect Ick.

Happy well fed fish in a stress (no content chasing) free environment don't get Ick, Ick feeds on the weak.
 
Back
Top