Question about Ammonia

malx

malx

Active member
So, question about Ammonia and how it works.

I set up a 10 Gal QT tank at my office with bottled water (bear with me) and added salt and I have the salinity and temp where I want it. I have been monitoring it with the Seneye for a few days now and all looks consistent. I'm also running GFO and activated Carbon in it as well just to keep the water clear. No organics have been introduced.

Next, the Seneye is showing my Ammonia level at .01 and my Hanna Ammonia checker ultra low range is showing at 3. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ammonia-low-range-colorimeter-hi700-hanna-checker-hc-fresh-water.html According to Hanna, to get the real Ammonia number you have to multiply that by 1.something.

Before adding any fish I plan on cycling this tank. Here are my questions.

What do I want my Ammonia levels at? 0 right?
What could have introduced Ammonia into this water? I imagine it's from the source (the bottling source).

I have Prime on the way to remove the small amount of chlorimine in the water. When I tested it it was at .03ppm, I want it at 0.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Joey
 
so is this a QT for a DT?? You want your levels to be at 0... and after adding a "load" of ammonia for it to return to zero rather quickly. What kind of salt did you add? do you have any sort of filter? air stone? is it just water with salt in it at a temperature you are happy with currently?
 
No skimmer or air of any kind. I could look into a hang on the back skimmer if you guys think that's a good idea. That will prob bring the PH down? Yes?
 
scallywags said:
so is this a QT for a DT?? You want your levels to be at 0... and after adding a "load" of ammonia for it to return to zero rather quickly. What kind of salt did you add? do you have any sort of filter? air stone? is it just water with salt in it at a temperature you are happy with currently?
Click to expand...

I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro salt. Yeah, so far just water, salt, and temp is good. I'm taking this slow so no rush until params are perfect. Yes, this is a QT for a DT. More of an "Observation Tank."

The tank: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/10-nuvo-fusion-aquarium-innovative-marine.html

Do you recommend any particular skimmer? I'm looking at the ones on BRS but none seem to be small enough to fit in the back compartment.
 
just get a HOB filter with floss (no carbon if you plan on dosing anything), some PVC tubes for some hiding places, and maybe an air stone or something to help oxygenate the water little heaters are like $5 so save yourself temp fluctuations and just get one. no skimmer or anything. let the tank cycle (use some water from the DT or toss filter floss from the DT in your filter and that will make it quicker).... soon as your ammonia levels spike and then 0 out then same for nitrites. then manage nitrates with water changes. Ammonia and nitrites should be 0....
 
malx said:
What could have introduced Ammonia into this water?

chlorimine
Click to expand...

It's chloramine. It breaks down into hypochlorite (bleach) and ammonia.

If you used bottled water, where did the chloramine come from? Bottled water shouldn't have chloramine in it.
 
disc1 said:
It's chloramine. It breaks down into hypochlorite (bleach) and ammonia.

If you used bottled water, where did the chloramine come from? Bottled water shouldn't have chloramine in it.
Click to expand...

I'm SMH with this too! But I tested the bottled water and it had a tiny bit of chlorimine. It's Vegas, they treat the water out here like crazy. I don't have a cycled DT tank, that's in progress, so I'll have to cycle this alone.

Here's what I'm going to do.

1: Treat the water with Prime to remove all traces of chlorine.
2: Going to use the media caddy. It will have three stages. Floss, Carbon/GFO, and some rubble pukani to hold bacteria (I have a lot extra).
3: Add the protein skimmer.
4: Throw in some bactostart and test for Ammonia / Nitrate until the tank cycles.
5: Purchase my first fish (2 Cinnamon clowns).

Will let you guys know how it goes!

Cheers,
Joey
 
Yep, chloramine will break down and leave ammonia if you don't treat it with the prime or other product designed for use with chloramine.

I HIGHLY recommend RO/DI water. "Bottled" water can just be basically tap water, not any better (as you have seen). Start right and avoid some algae plague headaches down the road.
 
OrQidz said:
Yep, chloramine will break down and leave ammonia if you don't treat it with the prime or other product designed for use with chloramine.

I HIGHLY recommend RO/DI water. "Bottled" water can just be basically tap water, not any better (as you have seen). Start right and avoid some algae plague headaches down the road.
Click to expand...

Working on an RODI system in my house. I'll be able to make water there and bring it to work for the QT tank. Using bottled water was a one-time deal.
 
You have some hi tech ammonia meters there but I'm still not sure what your levels really are. .1 mg/L is a very low amount that would be interpreted as 0 on most standard chemical tests. I don't know anything about the gear you're using but .1mg/L is probably within the normal deviation range of those meters.

That level wouldn't harm any fish and even if it's real only a tiny amount of Prime would sequester it.
 
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Reef Frog said:
You have some hi tech ammonia meters there but I'm still not sure what your levels really are. .1 mg/L is a very low amount that would be interpreted as 0 on most standard chemical tests. I don't know anything about the gear you're using but .1mg/L is probably within the normal deviation range of those meters.

That level wouldn't harm any fish and even if it's real only a tiny amount of Prime would sequester it.
Click to expand...

Good point. My Seneye is readiny my Ammonia level to be .007. With that said, maybe there is something wrong with my Hanna checker? I need to ask BRS.
 
Just found out that my Ammonia level is fine. The Hanna checker is for FRESHWATER only. Didn't read the label. BRS is letting me return it, so nice of them.
 
.007 mg/L ? That's nothing. Call it zero.

BTW POST #10 may not be a good plan if I'm reading it right. Don't throw in bottled bacteria followed immediately by 2 potentially big fish & expect to have a fully functional nitrifying bacteria colony on the Pukani rubble. You'd still need to check NH4 frequently and be able to do a big water change on short noticed. This would not be considered a properly cycled semi hands off QT tank if that is indeed what you're after.
 
Reef Frog said:
.007 mg/L ? That's nothing. Call it zero.

BTW POST #10 may not be a good plan if I'm reading it right. Don't throw in bottled bacteria followed immediately by 2 potentially big fish & expect to have a fully functional nitrifying bacteria colony on the Pukani rubble. You'd still need to check NH4 frequently and be able to do a big water change on short noticed. This would not be considered a properly cycled semi hands off QT tank if that is indeed what you're after.
Click to expand...

What process do you recommend? Open to following that.

Cheers,
Joey
 
malx said:
What process do you recommend? Open to following that.

Cheers,
Joey
Click to expand...

Don't know if the following applies directly to your situation as you don't have a DT or cured rock on hand, but hopefully it's still useful. You seem to be possibly over complicating the process. I'd use one of the be simple methods in the stickies above. You won't go wrong. GL.

==============

I keep a 10G QT tank running 24/7 because I'm in fish acquisition mode now & have 2 more on the list. Super simple just an HOB with a seasoned floss pad & junk live rock on the bottom. It's a cycled tank basically. This is for observation only. If ich or velvet treatment is ever needed it won't happen in this tank.

I had fully cured rock & pads on hand. Set up the tank with water from my display. Just let it run for a while, adding a little fish food here & there. Then I just used an API kit to verify ammonia was zero. It was. I checked nitrates, had a small amount which verified the cycle was happily underway. I skipped nitrite testing & I must say this abbreviated version isn't recommended for new aquarists.

Added fish when the LFS came through with an item on my wanted list. Immediate intro from bag to QT after temperature aclimation with a salinity match. That's it. Checked ammonia frequently for a while after to make sure bio filter was in top shape. It was. Water changes were done mostly just to remove some waste. EZ PZ.
 
On possible risk to you:

Tomato clowns can be big fish. I wouldn't try two in a 10g unless they were smallish tank bred fish. Big ones could potentially poop enough to overcome a weak bio filter rather quickly. One fish per QT is ideal.
 
Reef Frog said:
On possible risk to you:

Tomato clowns can be big fish. I wouldn't try two in a 10g unless they were smallish tank bred fish. Big ones could potentially poop enough to overcome a weak bio filter rather quickly. One fish per QT is ideal.
Click to expand...

I'm going to get Cinnamon Clowns and get the smallest ones I can find--maybe they can be big too. Thanks for you advice. I ordered some Media Balls (using that instead of live rock http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marinepure-ceramic-biomedia-1-1-2-spheres.html) that I will place in where I can fit them in the tank's back part and cycle it as if I was cycling the display tank. They will be kind of large but I will crush a few. Once I confirm the cycle is working, I will add my first two fish. My Seneye is monitoring ammonia accurately, so all I'll need to test for is (and I will) nitrates.

I will keep you guys posted! Thanks everyone for the advice.
 
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