Question about Quarantine and Ich

Patrick Cox

Active member
How many weeks do I need to quarantine a new fish?

If I keep a new fish in quarantine for that many weeks and it shows no sign of Ich, does that mean it does not have Ich?

Thanks
 
How many weeks do I need to quarantine a new fish?

If I keep a new fish in quarantine for that many weeks and it shows no sign of Ich, does that mean it does not have Ich?

Thanks

Lots of opinions. But I think 3 weeks with no signs of parasites and he's good to go. Really inspect the fish though; ich is only one of many parasites, diseases, and other problems that can be handled in QT.
 
I think first week, let it acclimate to OT and make sure it's eating. Then depending on fish (i.e tangs), I like to treat proactively with Cupramine and Prazi-pro - even if it doesn't show any signs.
 
I think first week, let it acclimate to OT and make sure it's eating. Then depending on fish (i.e tangs), I like to treat proactively with Cupramine and Prazi-pro - even if it doesn't show any signs.

I do too; but its so conversational, I don't push it. I've done it for many years with excellent results.
 
I do too; but its so conversational, I don't push it. I've done it for many years with excellent results.

Here is my tentative stocking list. Would you treat these fish with no signs of parasites?

2 Percula / Picasso Clowns
1 Coral Beauty
1 Goby

THanks!
 
Here is my tentative stocking list. Would you treat these fish with no signs of parasites?

2 Percula / Picasso Clowns
1 Coral Beauty
1 Goby

THanks!

I would, but I treat all fish and I know not everyone does. Do plenty of research and make an informed decision. Plenty of hobbyists treat all fish and I think its next to impossible to find any fish that hasn't been treated with copper along the way. Just my opinion: I think every time a fish is lost in QT that has been treated with copper, its assumed the copper is to blame. It may be, but very seldom. IMO IME; copper prevents countless more deaths than it causes. I am not going to let a parasite into any of my DTs if it can be avoided.
Also: If I hadn't been using copper in QT for so long, I would seriously consider Quinine Sulfate instead. There has been a lot of stuff on this forum lately about it, do a search. Some real experts, like Fenner and Goemans, are calling QS the drug of choice for ich. I don't know how QS does with brook, velvet (Oodinium), etc., in QT and wouldn't use it unless I knew. These two parasites scare me more than ich.
BTW, Coral beauties, and other dwarf angels, are in a small group of fish that are often copper-sensitive. If you decide to use copper; I'd acclimate the fish to it slowly and use a slightly smaller concentration than the normal .5. IMO, Cupramine, made by SeaChem is the best copper to use----for many reasons. If you have any concerns about the procedure or the CB; call their tech dept (888-seachem)---they're great.
 
angels are also known to be prone to having flukes so prazipro is a simple and effective way to deal with it.
 
If you are new to QT tanks keep in mind that ammonia will be your biggest problem assuming that the tank is not fully cycled with bio filtration. Personally I do not add fish to my QT until it is cycling. (I keep a spare 55g with overflow) Poor water conditions in QT can be worse than Ick.
 
If you are new to QT tanks keep in mind that ammonia will be your biggest problem assuming that the tank is not fully cycled with bio filtration. Personally I do not add fish to my QT until it is cycling. (I keep a spare 55g with overflow) Poor water conditions in QT can be worse than Ick.

Thanks. I will keep that in mind. Can I put a piece of LR in my QT? If not, what is the best way to start the bacteria colony?
 
Live rock is excellent for the QT especially for grazing fish. As for the bacteria, I seed the tank with a few bio balls from my DT and foul the water a little with skimmer waste. (assuming you use bio balls. they seem to be going out of fashion but I have no complaints with them in my 350g fowler). You could also use a lot of live rock instead. In any case keep an eye on the ammonia level. Frequent massive water changes stress fish and keep medication levels uncertain.

By the way I agree with the other posters that new arrivals should be proactively treated with copper and prazi pro.
 
Here's a copy of how I cycle a QT. Works great and is really fool-proof. Just my preference, but I don't like LR in QT. it will absorb meds and make exact dosing difficult. Algae sheets can substitute for the grazing, and I use PVC fittings for shelter. I just don't like to use anything in QT that can't just be tossed out or sterilized easily. LR is about the only decent way to control nitrate: but that isn't an issue in QT, at least for fish. When I QT corals, or other inverts, nitrates seldom climb to a problem level; but a WC will handle it if needed.

"n regards to Qt cycling; I've done this for years. Get a HOB filter; I really like Aqua-Clear, they have a big sponge and last forever. Don't use the carbon or ceramic noodles that come with the filter. Also, have some extra sponges on hand, they're cheap. Keep a sponge in the flow somewhere in your DT. When you need a QT or HT, just use the sponge that has been in your main system in your QT filter---the QT will be instantly cycled. When done, toss the sponge and keep a new one ready in your main system.
BTW, Cupramine copper, used in a QT,will not destroy a bio-filter."
 
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