Questions about Ick

vietcu

New member
I have a general question about Ick. I am kind of leaning towards getting a powder blue tang for my tank. If I quarantine him for a couple of weeks to make sure that he is disease free, then introduce him to my tank. If the tank has no signs of Ick, would the tang be susceptible to Ick later on if I don't introduce anything else to my tank? Here is the real question. If he is still able to contract Ick after the quarantine, what is the point of quarantining?
 
They are called ick magnets lol ick is a mystery to me, i have lost so many fish but after a year i have no more signs and all the fish are good (knock on wood)
 
The point of QT'ing fish is to hopefully prevent ich from ever entering yout display in the first place.

However, if you aren't running some type of medicated or hypo QT, then you would have to QT for up to 12 weeks in order to ensure that there is no chance of it passing into the display.

11 weeks is the longest ich was recorded to live without a host, so 12 weeks would be needed to ensure eradication.

Plus this would also require the QT of all corals, rock, inverts... basically anything that ich would be able to encrust on, and hitch a ride into your tank on.

I have a PBT, that I QT'd for 4 weeks. Went through black ich in QT, then broke out with regular ich once I added it to the display. I didn't treat him, he cleared it on his own, and is doing great now. After my experience, and doing some research on the topic. In my opinion it is virtually impossible to keep your tank 100% ich free.

So why doesn't everyone's fish have ich? Fish can build up a partial immunity to ich over time, and through proper nutrition their immune systems will become strong enough to fend off the parasite.

This is exactly why a hobbyist will not have ich in his tank for years, then all of a sudden it pops up due to some stress factor. The hobbyist just assumes the stress factor caused the outbreak. When in reality the parasite was in the system the entire time, the stress factor just lowered the fish's immune system enough to allow the ich to gain enough of an edge to infect the fish.

I think a QT period is great. It's a good time to settle in by itself after a stressful shipping, observe the fish for any type of disease or parasite, but more importantly (and in my opinion) it's a period of time that allows you to get your fish fat and healthy before adding it to your display.

Honestly... I think ich is overly feared.

Here are some pictures of my PBT from back in June after he broke out with ich:

Pich02.jpg


Pich01.jpg


Pich03.jpg


Here's a picture of him from yesterday:

merlin1.jpg
 
No problem... I will say, the above is just my take on/experience with ich. I'm certain there are others that will have contrasting opinions. Just prepare yourself up front, and I would definitely plan on QT'ing the fish once you get it.

IMO what you need to watch out for with Powder Blue's is black ich. Almost everyone I talked to who had long term success with PBT's said that they battled black ich at some point or another. Mine broke out with black ich after 2 weeks in QT. However, if you can get the fish through the initial disease bouts, I've been told they are basically bulletproof after that. :lol:

Good luck, let me know if you would like anymore information about my PBT.

I ordered mine from:

www.reefhotspot.com

On a side note... I also think there is a lmited number of times a strain of ich can reproduce before dying out... 34 or something, but I'm not certain.
 
Here's a brief quick explanation on it:

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/compldiagnodisease/a/aa041701.htm

Basically I treated it with a series of 3 freshwater dips, spaced 3 days apart.

The thought behind the dips is that you pull the fish when the worms are in the adult form, and visible on the fish. The dip kills them off before they can drop off to reproduce.

So basically you are beating them through attrition. 3 dips was all I needed, and what most people I talked to seemed to also have success with.
 
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