questions about limewater

ireefn

Member
Hi,
Let me give you some info and maybe I can pick your brains for input. I have a 240, a 75, and a 12 gallon. They are all reef tanks that I have to dose daily with kent tech parts a and b. This was not to big of a problem until I set up my 240 but since then it has become a chore. I have a 44 gallon brute that gravity feeds ro/di via diy stock tank float valves to each sump. That is valves not switches. I have been thinking of the use of limewater through that top off system.

I would like to know what you folks would do to make that system useful for limewater.

Thanks for giving me your time.
 
If you can figure how to keep it from settling, it should work. You might try just putting a diy reactor with a bought stirrer in-line between your drip and your tank---my own bought system involves a kalk reactor with a downward-prohibited checkvalve between my topoff reservoir and my sump, ie, it pumps uphill. If all your systems are on one gravity feed, one should do it. I'm not sure how potent kalk is v. a calcium reactor when you have a megatank with a lot of corals, since it's pegged to the evaporation rate, but it's sure made my life easier even with a 54g. I think the next question is how does kalk do with a really big tank, and should you go calcium reactor?
 
small powerhead to keep it from settleing.I use it and love it.It keeps my cal and alk up at the same time.No other buffer needed for alk.
 
You should not stir limewater after it settles. Unless you are using an extremely pure lime like Seachems, you'll want to settle out the impurities. Then just clean out the bottom every six months or so.
 
A few more questions while I am picking your brains.

1. Should I use the float valves?

2. Should I Mix in new Lime everytime I refill with ro/di or Just stir what has settled in the bottom each time until all saturated? Or will I have to clean out old and start new each batch?

3. Will it Harm my tanks to just start the use of limewater after haveing used parts a and b all these years?
 
1.) Float valves would work well on a drip system.
2.) Test the limewater effluent until it is losing potency, then
change it.
3.) No harm.
4.) I would use a very small power head as a stirrer and use
pickling lime due to less impurities.
 
Float valves for what ? :confused:

You should not stir what has settled as it is more than likely impurities. Pickling lime is not pure.

Limewater may or may not keep up with cal/alk demand. Depends on your tanks consumption.
 
IMO a peristaltic pump is the best way to deliver the limewater. It avoids any clogging of valves or pumps. But once you've mixed it, don't stir it and you will maintain potency for weeks provided you do a half way decent job of covering the top to decrease air from mixing with it. I do almost all my ca/alk replacment with this method and a once a month bump with the homemade 2 part. In larger tanks and large sumps (especially in my case with a stock tank sump) you can make a LOT of water to evaporate with a fan or two from the local walmart. I replace about 3 dKh per day via this method.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9976308#post9976308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Billybeau1
Float valves for what ? :confused:

You should not stir what has settled as it is more than likely impurities. Pickling lime is not pure.

Limewater may or may not keep up with cal/alk demand. Depends on your tanks consumption.
The float valve is for a system where the ato container is higher than the tank. The float valve controlls the "drain/drip" level.

I agree, pickling lime isn't pure. That's not what I said. I said less impurities.

I agree, lime water won't do it alone, it's just another quality supplement.
 
:wavehand:

Been busy doing an upgrade and house training kids. Not getting anywhere with the kids though! :lol:
 
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