<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central and COMAS</b></i></big></big>
Really, you aren't too bad off. I know others that are worse, and others still that are better. But, you're just diving in, and I think you have a decent start. Okay, now down to my nitty gritty. Consider it as an addendum to pwhitby's posts. I agree with him, but I could use a little more information.
---What type of heater is it, and what size? You don't want anything under powered or you'll have constant temperature swings between day and night. But, if it is over powered, you can easily overheat your tank.
---You might want to look at getting a little more porous rock. I'm not sure how good the rock is in your current setup, but rock is the primary biological filtration in nearly all marine aquariums. The more porous the rock is and the more you have means the more biological filtration you can have. This is very helpful when keeping a larger number of fish, or help keep accidents such as overfeeding from being a giant problem in a short amount of time. In adequate biofiltration can cause an excess in nutrients, thus sprining up things like nuisance algaes and cyanobacteria, one of which just might be what you are having trouble with in your tank.
---What powerhead do you have, and how much flow does it give off? For the most part depending on what you have in your tank, a fair amount of flow is needed to keep corals clean of debris, increase gas exchange from the water, keep any protein film aggitated at the surface of the water, keep debris suspended longer, etc. Most likely you will need some more flow for that size tank. But, there are a lot of different things you can put in there, so a little more information is needed first.
---What test kits do you have? There are a lot of water parameters that you should keep a check on. Some are more necessary than others and may need to be tested more often. Some test kits that are almost indisposable are Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Calcium, and Alkalinity. Another two tests that should be performed if you want to keep on top of water chemistry are Magnesium and Phosphates. Lastly, you'll need a test kit for anything else that you dose. For example, if you are dosing Iodine, you will need an Iodine test kit.
---I assume that the hydrometer you have is a floating hydrometer? I recommend that you read up on the proper use, calibration, and care of hydrometers. They are a very sensitive instrument that even the smallest thing can cause inaccurate readings.
---You crushed coral substrate is something that is often avoided. Crushed coral provides ample room for water and oxygen to flow in as well as letting debris to settle down and rot. Because of the high oxygen content and the extra debris, the debris will break down through the Nitrogen Cycle, but will only make it to the Nitrate stage. This causes an increase in Nitrates. Nitrates are broken down by bacteria that grow where oxygen isn't present. This is usually found deep inside live rock, and deep in a fine sandbed. So, you might want to look at modifying your substrate to get the best filtration that you can out of it.
---Just a word of warning. Pseudochromis can be very territorial, and urchins are notorious for knocking things down. Also, like most urchins, a good calcium based diet is optimal for their health and growth. Since urchins are normally algaevores, their optimal food choice is the often highly desired Coralline Algae. They will also eat other algae, too, and go through other calcium based algaes like Halimeda or Neomeris like candy.
---What do you plan on your cleanup crew being? You might want to look into a variety of critters to help keep your tank clean. Turbos are alright, but they are utter bulldozers that eat a ton. This is great news for aquarists, but a tank over stocked with Turbos will only lead to them starving to death as they out compete each other and other animals for food.
---How much are you feeding per day? How much of it is eaten and how much floats away?
---What are your current water parameters? Temperature, Specific Gravity or Salinity, pH, Calcium, Alkalinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrates
---Lighting is VERY difficult on a 44g Corner Pentagon. There are a lot of lighting options available, but very few are easily put on a tank. The problem with lighting a 44g Pentagon is the shape. You can only fit smaller bulbs, which usually limits how bright you can have it as well as the surface area that the bulb can light up. Unfortunately, Metal Halides are one of the best options for a tank of this odd shape. A Metal Halide covers a broad area very brightly. Generally, a 24" x 24" surface are is brightly lit enough with direct light that there is very little that you could not keep under it. Of course, depending on your plans for corals and inverts might make choosing the correct wattage a little difficult. The simple clip on the back 70w MH is a great starter moderate light loving corals. But, if you would really like to pack on the light, a 150w or 175w would be ideal. If you want to aim for an SPS dominate tank such as Reef Central's tank of the month, then you might look at a 250w MH. Now, as you see, you have a lot of options open, but there is a huge problem with MH and heat. So, the more powerful the bulb, the more heat you have. The more heat you have, the more fans you will need. If configured correctly, you won't need a chiller. But there is a small chance that you might with a MH.
---The fish that you propose are very pretty, but I would really look into their requirements more. Using nature as a guide will really help you determine their needs. For example, a Yellow Tang gets about 7" long and is a constant, water column swimmer. So, with that being said, you can see that a 44g Pentagon is really just too small. I would take a look at a fish's requirements, and your current tank before choosing a single fish. Wanting groups of fish such as Chromis or Anthias is often an enduring task for large aquariums.
---As Paul Whitby said, a skimmer is
almost essential. You really don't have to have one. But, they are so drastically helpful that it is almost foolish not to have one. For what it's worth, I don't run a skimmer, and I do just fine. With all things considered about your current tank setup, I would recommend one. There are a lot of complex proteins that aren't being filtered that a skimmer can easily take out for you.
---Dtking is right. A sump is very difficult to put under a prebuilt 44g Pentagon stand unless it is custom built. If you would like to have a sump or refugium, and you need a new stand, I still have the frame of mine. If you are good with woodworking, a little plywood to skin the frame, and you are good to go. If you are interested in it, then shoot me a
Private Message
One other thing i would mention, there are many ways of doing something, not all of them are compatible with each other so find someone whos ideas you like, discuss it and then mmake a plan and go with it.
Above all else, this is one of the most important pieces of advice. There is more than one way of doing things, and it's up to you to decide how you want to do it. Technically, what you have is fine, but it might present a long and arduous journey for a healthy tank. All the advice given above by everyone will help you tremendously in the long run.
Glad you found the forum okay. Hope to see you at the meeting.
Don't listen to us all, just soak in the info for your education but grab one of us and ask them to be a mentor as such. There are a lot of good ways to go but you can't mix everyones info together. 
