quick question about plastic contamination (Brute water tank)

ghstrider

New member
thanks guys... I picked up a 32 gal Brute w/ dolly wheels at HD for about $60. Now do I need to clean or prep the inside of the Brute with anything before storing water in it? Or can i just clean it with some soap and water real well before I hook up a ro/di?
 
I would at the least hose it down, then give it a rinse in RO/DI, maybe half a gallon worth, and since it's DI, it'll absorb any leftover residue.
 
The Brutes do not have wheels. There is a small dolly that is sold by rubbermaid that fits around the bottom. It's not really connected unless you bolt it down.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12067354#post12067354 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by carlosngloria
I was looking at those in walmart but i think they will leak down by the wheels
 
(borrowed words)

Generally when plastic containers are made they are put one inside the other. This is called nesting. When newly fabricated buckets are made and they are nested, there is no way any air can circulate. Thus any toxins from newly formed synthetic materials cannot escape.

To cure: Fill the container with water. Add one cup of Clorox (bleach) and 10 pounds of common salt (rock salt will do), to each 25 gallon size container.

Allow to sit for 4-5 days.

Dump out, not on your lawn! Wash with clean fresh water.

Fill with clean fresh water. Add de-chlorinator. Allow to sit for 4-5 days.

Discard this water. Allow to open air cure (leave in your back yard) for 4-5 days.

At the end of this process, smell inside the container. If there is ANY odor of plastic, resins, etc. Cure again.

Once there is NO odor of any type, you can safely use this container to mix and store salt water.
 
Hmmm interesting.

That does make sense, though I wonder how many of us (probably a very slim margin) actually do that, versus just making our first batch of water in it after simply rinsing it out (probably most if not all of us).
 
coral, that seems like ALOT to do~! Do i really need to do all that if im not going to store the water but maybe half a day? Is there a faster way to do it that will work almost as good?

Now that we are on the topic are the red plastic blitz gas cans we use to transport water leecjing chemicals into our tanks or only if the water is stored there for some time (ive done that w/ top off from the LFS)?

Could this chemical leeching be a strong contributor to my algae on the sand and the bit of red slime i get here and there??



thanks,
eddy
 
GH - As stated, those were borrowed words. Personally I do cut the time down (2-3 days on each).

Yes, plastics leach. To include the red gas cans. The longer the water is stored - the more will leach into the water (common sense).

Do I think it could be part of your algae problem? Yes - it is possible. That, along with your nitrate level (from your signature).
You don't mention your PO4 level in your sig??
 
Eddie,

I rinsed mine a few times and put it to work right away. No problems so far. I know several others (of Guru status) that have done the same. Maybe we just got lucky.
 
I think its a combo of my nitrates, LFS water (typical TDS of 30-80 on avg), high fish count (12 i think), and leeching from my plastic containers. My PO4 is usually between 0-.25 (hard to read the afi test kit on PO4).

Brute wise, I think Im going to just clean it with water and a capful of bleach and run the gambit. I dont plan on leaving water in the container more than 24 hours. when i rinse out the container (after using the capful of bleach) do i need to do anything special besides a long rinse?
 
I've given up on the standard PO4 test kits. Just ordered a Hanna meter for PO4.

If you aren't going to do the entire cure with the brute then at least "smell" for the best one when you go to purchase. One that has been out in the air and not stacked within others. Bleach it - rinse it - dry it - smell it again. You are looking for no oder.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12067419#post12067419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coralfragger101
(borrowed words)

Generally when plastic containers are made they are put one inside the other. This is called nesting. When newly fabricated buckets are made and they are nested, there is no way any air can circulate. Thus any toxins from newly formed synthetic materials cannot escape.

To cure: Fill the container with water. Add one cup of Clorox (bleach) and 10 pounds of common salt (rock salt will do), to each 25 gallon size container.

Allow to sit for 4-5 days.

Dump out, not on your lawn! Wash with clean fresh water.

Fill with clean fresh water. Add de-chlorinator. Allow to sit for 4-5 days.

Discard this water. Allow to open air cure (leave in your back yard) for 4-5 days.

At the end of this process, smell inside the container. If there is ANY odor of plastic, resins, etc. Cure again.

Once there is NO odor of any type, you can safely use this container to mix and store salt water.
I always used bleach, and that sounds very reasonable. I agree do that Eddie :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12068619#post12068619 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ghstrider
I think its a combo of my nitrates, LFS water (typical TDS of 30-80 on avg), high fish count (12 i think), and leeching from my plastic containers. My PO4 is usually between 0-.25 (hard to read the afi test kit on PO4).

Brute wise, I think Im going to just clean it with water and a capful of bleach and run the gambit. I dont plan on leaving water in the container more than 24 hours. when i rinse out the container (after using the capful of bleach) do i need to do anything special besides a long rinse?
I think you should atleast leat it sit with hot water after the bleach for 24 hrs, try not to rush thinks Eddie, you can always ron the RODI and store the water in another container.
 
I use ammonia to clean any plastic containers. Wipe with straight ammonia and rinse down with tap water. Don't breathe while you are wiping or you will be on the floor :) Bleach can be used but make sure it is unscented. Bleach is really hard to rinse out. At least use a dechlorinator after.

I use a Hanna test kit for my phosphate, not a meter. It is a great very accurate test. But expensive. Your Phos should be unreadable with any of our test kits. The only way I get anything is when I have the lab test and it is about 20 ppb.
 
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