blennielove
New member
Greetings to all at Reef Central!
Recently I had an ich outbreak in my 225 gallon reef tank. My Powder Blue Tang got the first signs, then my Atlantic Tang, Kole Tang, Flame Angel, Filament Wrasse, Cleaner Wrasse, Lubbock's Wrasse, Clown Fairy Wrasse, and two Neon Gobies.
I wasted time by attempting to treat with "REEF SAFE" products: Ich Attack, Herbtana, Kick Ich. There were all REEF SAFE. I can't say they killed ich because my fish still had them, but I cannot say that they did not help them completely as they did not decline in health until after two weeks. But this delay caused the lives of the Kole Tang and two Neon Gobies, my Filament wrasse dove into the sand and has not been out since.
So, on Thanksgiving night I enjoyed moving 260 pounds of live rock and corals out of my tank to catch the fishes. PBT, AT, KT, FA, CW, LW, CFW are currently doing much better in a 55 gallon hospital tank. PBT and AT were treated with a pH and temperature matched fresh water dip prior to entering the hospital tank.
I then treated with hyposalinity that was dropped over 3 days to 1.009 and then raised over 3 days to 1.020. (Yeah - they did not stay at 1.009 for more than 36 hours as I decided to treat with the Quinine and I needed to bring salinity back up.)
Tonight is day 1 of Quinine Phosphate treatment.
I dosed at 1/4 teaspoon per 10 gallons. I recommend that you mix this medication in some tank water prior to putting it in the tank - it sort of clumped up when put directly in the tank but it is slowly dissolving.
I contacted National Fish Pharmacy due to conflicting information regarding dosing schedule. Dr. Aukes there recommended to do ONE treatment and let the medication sit in there without a water change for seven days. Then a 50 percent water change at the end of seven days.
Make sure that UV, protein skimmer are turned OFF.
Remove all carbon, Purigen, etc.
Since giving medications, all fishes are looking fine without any signs of additional stress. They are actively eating (by the way - Nat'l Fish Pharm recommends that you DO NOT FEED during treatment to keep water parameters in acceptable range.) I will be feeding some because I think it is good that they eat but will be monitoring parameters closely and will use water that I'm made up especially with the purpose of changing water if needed. (20 gallon tank with SG 1.023 and 1/2 teaspoon of Quinine premade on the same date - this way, I believe that the medications will have the same effectiveness with it's half life.)
I had read at WWM.com that light should be turned off. Dr. Aukes explained that only UV light would affect the medication. Lights will be on regular timer for 14 hour cycles.
I'm excited to be sharing this!
If anyone else has experience with Quinine Sulphate, please chime in!:bounce3:
Recently I had an ich outbreak in my 225 gallon reef tank. My Powder Blue Tang got the first signs, then my Atlantic Tang, Kole Tang, Flame Angel, Filament Wrasse, Cleaner Wrasse, Lubbock's Wrasse, Clown Fairy Wrasse, and two Neon Gobies.
I wasted time by attempting to treat with "REEF SAFE" products: Ich Attack, Herbtana, Kick Ich. There were all REEF SAFE. I can't say they killed ich because my fish still had them, but I cannot say that they did not help them completely as they did not decline in health until after two weeks. But this delay caused the lives of the Kole Tang and two Neon Gobies, my Filament wrasse dove into the sand and has not been out since.
So, on Thanksgiving night I enjoyed moving 260 pounds of live rock and corals out of my tank to catch the fishes. PBT, AT, KT, FA, CW, LW, CFW are currently doing much better in a 55 gallon hospital tank. PBT and AT were treated with a pH and temperature matched fresh water dip prior to entering the hospital tank.
I then treated with hyposalinity that was dropped over 3 days to 1.009 and then raised over 3 days to 1.020. (Yeah - they did not stay at 1.009 for more than 36 hours as I decided to treat with the Quinine and I needed to bring salinity back up.)
Tonight is day 1 of Quinine Phosphate treatment.
I dosed at 1/4 teaspoon per 10 gallons. I recommend that you mix this medication in some tank water prior to putting it in the tank - it sort of clumped up when put directly in the tank but it is slowly dissolving.
I contacted National Fish Pharmacy due to conflicting information regarding dosing schedule. Dr. Aukes there recommended to do ONE treatment and let the medication sit in there without a water change for seven days. Then a 50 percent water change at the end of seven days.
Make sure that UV, protein skimmer are turned OFF.
Remove all carbon, Purigen, etc.
Since giving medications, all fishes are looking fine without any signs of additional stress. They are actively eating (by the way - Nat'l Fish Pharm recommends that you DO NOT FEED during treatment to keep water parameters in acceptable range.) I will be feeding some because I think it is good that they eat but will be monitoring parameters closely and will use water that I'm made up especially with the purpose of changing water if needed. (20 gallon tank with SG 1.023 and 1/2 teaspoon of Quinine premade on the same date - this way, I believe that the medications will have the same effectiveness with it's half life.)
I had read at WWM.com that light should be turned off. Dr. Aukes explained that only UV light would affect the medication. Lights will be on regular timer for 14 hour cycles.
I'm excited to be sharing this!
If anyone else has experience with Quinine Sulphate, please chime in!:bounce3:
