raising pH
- Thread starter bunkerboy
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mwwhite
New member
The chemistry forum has some good articles that explain pH.
Before you get too far, how are you measuring pH? If you're using a test kit with a color chart, be aware - they're notoriously inaccurate. A much better option is the PinPoint pH monitor.
To expand on Icefire's recommendation, one of the more common causes of low pH is excess CO2. Easy enough to prove - simply take a cup of tank water, test it, move it outdoors, aerate it for at least an hour (airstone, pump or bubble box), then test again. If it increased, you've proven the cause to be excess C02. Especially common during winter when our homes are closed-up. Human and pet respiration depletes O2 and increases CO2
Simple aeration (using outside air) will likely help, but may not be practical. If you have a 'fuge (with macroalgae), an alternative is to run your 'fuge lights opposite of your display tank. This gives you the benefit of photosynthesis during times that your display tank is dark; it'll reduce "pH swing".
Using a buffer (alkalinity increase) will increase pH, but only in the short-term.
Calcification is more difficult at lower pH. You can mitigate it somewhat by maintaining your alkalinity at the top of the range (11 dKH or 4 meq/L)
Before you get too far, how are you measuring pH? If you're using a test kit with a color chart, be aware - they're notoriously inaccurate. A much better option is the PinPoint pH monitor.
To expand on Icefire's recommendation, one of the more common causes of low pH is excess CO2. Easy enough to prove - simply take a cup of tank water, test it, move it outdoors, aerate it for at least an hour (airstone, pump or bubble box), then test again. If it increased, you've proven the cause to be excess C02. Especially common during winter when our homes are closed-up. Human and pet respiration depletes O2 and increases CO2
Simple aeration (using outside air) will likely help, but may not be practical. If you have a 'fuge (with macroalgae), an alternative is to run your 'fuge lights opposite of your display tank. This gives you the benefit of photosynthesis during times that your display tank is dark; it'll reduce "pH swing".
Using a buffer (alkalinity increase) will increase pH, but only in the short-term.
Calcification is more difficult at lower pH. You can mitigate it somewhat by maintaining your alkalinity at the top of the range (11 dKH or 4 meq/L)
dntx5b9
New member
Read the mentioned article. Very informative. I have a very simple low tech setup. 36G BF, lots of liverock (close to 60lb), 4 small fish, snails, shrimp, and few zoas. No skimmer, and 130W PC. I have two power heads and two HOB (AC 70 and AC50) to provide circulation. I do 4G water changes a week. I use Instand Ocean and I don't add anything else. I have noticed that the zoas have not been opening up as well as before and I tested the pH this morning and it was at 7.8 (may be even lower: color chart test kit). Could there be other reasons for low pH? Is this what is called a tank crash? Any ideas?
Reeses
New member
I concur with both icefire and mwwhite.
The most common overlooked reason for low pH is too much carbon dioxide in the water. Try this cheap and easy fix: Open a window and place a couple of air stones using a splitter into the opposite ends of your aquarium. Wait 12-24 hours and then retest. You'll probably find you can ditch the chemicals, which aren't all that great to use anyway. Saltwater has a naturally high pH on it's own, and given the right conditions, will naturally stay where it's supposed to. I have this problem every winter, even with my non-airtight leaky windows, a skimmer, a powerhead for agitation on the return side of my sump, and a fan to boot.
No, I don't think your tank is currently crashing, unless you allow the carbon dioxide to build up to levels that your critters can no longer breathe. I say ditch the chemicals, because the fluctuation of pH is worse for them than having a constant slightly low pH.
The most common overlooked reason for low pH is too much carbon dioxide in the water. Try this cheap and easy fix: Open a window and place a couple of air stones using a splitter into the opposite ends of your aquarium. Wait 12-24 hours and then retest. You'll probably find you can ditch the chemicals, which aren't all that great to use anyway. Saltwater has a naturally high pH on it's own, and given the right conditions, will naturally stay where it's supposed to. I have this problem every winter, even with my non-airtight leaky windows, a skimmer, a powerhead for agitation on the return side of my sump, and a fan to boot.
No, I don't think your tank is currently crashing, unless you allow the carbon dioxide to build up to levels that your critters can no longer breathe. I say ditch the chemicals, because the fluctuation of pH is worse for them than having a constant slightly low pH.
Shagsbeard
New member
Pretty much continuously... Though if you're running a skimmer, have decently "disturbed" surfaces, and open a window now and again, you should be fine. The bubble stones and such make a horrible mess.
drummereef
Team RC
The use of pH buffers are NOT recommended. Common causes of depressed pH are from excess Co2 levels in the tank. Open some windows and let some fresh air in your house. This and vigorous flow will help. 
Please read:
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
Please read:
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
wizzbane15
Member
DSB and LR are good buffering agents.
Reeses
New member
Perfect, but that's going to add alot of little bubbles you may not appreciate. At least with an airstone they are more contained, although they do tend to make a bit of a mess. Not a problem if you have a top, although I like to run topless. :lol:
If you can point that powerhead to really agitate the suface, it will really help. Your point in running the airstones right now is to eliminate the excess carbon dioxide as quick as possible, and then find a better/more agreeable means of oxygenating your water if necessary.
Reeses
New member
Adding more alk won't solve the problem, it just causes the pH jump and then fall. If the water has proper amounts of oxygen in it, only then is the pH allowed to be determined by the alk level.
Try visiting the article that drummereef posted, I'm sure it's much better than explaining it than I am.
Try visiting the article that drummereef posted, I'm sure it's much better than explaining it than I am.
