Rasta Zoanthids

i keep these in very high par lighting and i grow them like weeds lol

i have 3 variations of rastas( true rastas,ultra rastas and rasta next gens) and i grow i bet a half dozen polyps a month , not my fastest grower but they do grow fast.

lighting plays a huge role in the shape, size and color.

in blue lighting with lower par i get eye lash skirts, fat heads( just under dime sized) and the baby blue is very large.

in high par i get short small polyps, a very difinitive orange ring and growth ius faster with short skirts.

i find thery do not do well with any readable phosphates and nitrates and all my systems are high flow.


hth

denny
 
This is the plug I started with In January




This is what I had last week sorry it's a video
I feel they have spread quickly for just 3 months
 
Why do zoas melt?

The melting is simply deterioration, as a gradual decline in health.
They get smaller and smaller...
They deteriorate because of infections, like bacterial infection for e.g., or they are getting too weak to live for some other reason, loosing their abilities for their normal metabolism to function.
Mainly that other reason would be nutrition, meaning the zoas would need better light, more dissolved nutrients (lots to it!! It doesn't mean dirty water, trust on that!! :thumbsup:) and some times food particles would help.

Now, its important that one or more could be the problem(s).

Also it's very important to remember that predation and irritation could lead zoas to close for longer than they would take. That would obviously generate some nutrition deficiency.

All that would also play with the type of species in the game, huge time!!!

Keeping the right params stable, finding the right spot for light/water flow, and making sure water quality/nutrition is checked are the basics to avoid melting IMO.

Some people say they've got "all zoas" doing great but "that particular species" wouldn't survive in that tank and melt all the time. That could be predation and/or nutrition. Some fishes just eat certain species of zoas, for e.g. Water flow and water params also could provoke melting for a lack of nutrition.

I would like to hear from others too on the subject!!
So much to learn!!!
I don't think my life time will be enough!:hmm4:

Grandis.
 
i keep these in very high par lighting and i grow them like weeds lol

i have 3 variations of rastas( true rastas,ultra rastas and rasta next gens) and i grow i bet a half dozen polyps a month , not my fastest grower but they do grow fast.

lighting plays a huge role in the shape, size and color.

in blue lighting with lower par i get eye lash skirts, fat heads( just under dime sized) and the baby blue is very large.

in high par i get short small polyps, a very difinitive orange ring and growth ius faster with short skirts.

i find thery do not do well with any readable phosphates and nitrates and all my systems are high flow.


hth

denny

Good info!
I don't know about that stuff.
Those species of zoas aren't from HI.
Thanks for sharing!

Do you have pictures of the 3 types to show us how they look like?

Grandis.
 
This is the plug I started with In January
...
This is what I had last week sorry it's a video
...

I have a hard time to believe that when the tank is so blue like that the zoas would thrive in the long run.
Is that tank blue like the picture?

:bounce1::bounce1::bounce1: Blue, blue, blue. LOL!

Grandis.
 
I love Rastas. I grew a 2 polyp frag to a 6" round colony of over 400 in about 15 months. Like any coral, IMO, it's simply hit or miss and results vary from system to system.

I now have a 3 polyp frag I recently got, and a 15 or so polyp small colony as well. Hoping to have a fraction of the success I had with the others.
 
Last edited:
I flood the tank twice a week with mix of reef chilli and rofiters....

Yep, you feed the tank.
The skimmer likes that too.
Polyps should get some, I hope :D

There are other people that does the same.
It's not a big deal, if you really like to do that...
I just think it's a waste of food if doesn't get mostly to the polyps it will get out in the skimmer of stay in the substrate (sand bed and rocks).
When you target feed you already loose some to the substrates and fishes.
If you use frozen rotifers make sure to rinse it first to avoid excess of nutrients.

I feed only once a week max. I used to feed twice a week before. No need.
The polyps are small and will need time to digest the many pellets and powder I offer them. A week a part keep things clean and I normally perform the weekly partial 10% water change right after that or the next day. Works for me.

I've seen/heard of many tanks that get fed broadcast and they do great. Shouldn't be a problem if you can control the nutrients doing the water changes needed. Make sure the skimmer is a good one. Watch the system in the long run to see if you need even more water changes than you're already doing. I guess it is more work at the end of the story, because of the water changes and to clean more the skimmer.

Grandis.
 
I have a hard time to believe that when the tank is so blue like that the zoas would thrive in the long run.
Is that tank blue like the picture?

:bounce1::bounce1::bounce1: Blue, blue, blue. LOL!

Grandis.

No. Cell phone pictures really bring out the blue in my tank. I'm running 3x blue+ 2xcoral+ And a purple+
 
My rastas are doing great . people have problems with them but I never have I have the spread on a rock and I also have about 4 frags with some ...still growing out.
 
might be worth looking into the camera gels that take out most of the blue. Works great on my cell and little digi cam.

Only polyps i had melt were my blue death paly's, they started 1 large and 3 small polyps, the large went first and then the tiny ones, there are still some remains on the plug so I have left it to see if they come back. Too bad, they were really pretty....maybe more so than the tubs blues. I found it odd since they are 3" from another small colony that is doing fantastic, but who knows, my mithrax could have a thing for blue paly's.....he is going in the fuge as soon as I get the sump up and running.
 
The melting is simply deterioration, as a gradual decline in health.
They get smaller and smaller...
They deteriorate because of infections, like bacterial infection for e.g., or they are getting too weak to live for some other reason, loosing their abilities for their normal metabolism to function.
Mainly that other reason would be nutrition, meaning the zoas would need better light, more dissolved nutrients (lots to it!! It doesn't mean dirty water, trust on that!! :thumbsup:) and some times food particles would help.

Now, its important that one or more could be the problem(s).

Also it's very important to remember that predation and irritation could lead zoas to close for longer than they would take. That would obviously generate some nutrition deficiency.

All that would also play with the type of species in the game, huge time!!!

Keeping the right params stable, finding the right spot for light/water flow, and making sure water quality/nutrition is checked are the basics to avoid melting IMO.

Some people say they've got "all zoas" doing great but "that particular species" wouldn't survive in that tank and melt all the time. That could be predation and/or nutrition. Some fishes just eat certain species of zoas, for e.g. Water flow and water params also could provoke melting for a lack of nutrition.

I would like to hear from others too on the subject!!
So much to learn!!!
I don't think my life time will be enough!:hmm4:

Grandis.

Thanks alot Grandis for the helpful explanation!!!
 
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