REALLY cooking rock

[bassnman11]

I have access to some figi rock that has been stored in saltwater, outside and covered. There has been on circulation so I assume the stuff is dead. If I scrub it down, boil it in fresh water, then bake it in the oven it should be sterile. I will use it as base under my live rock. Can I put it straight in the tank?

 

[Kent E]

:lol: love the headline!

If you boiled it, I think that would do it. DOn't think many would recommend it, but if you wanted it clean, there you go.

 

[SeanT]

Hi,
I would not do that as I believe it would be a complete waste of time on your part.
IF everything (including bacteria) is dead on/in the rock then you have a great amount of stored phosphorous in the rocks.
What I would do is start up some ne saltwater, toss this rock in with a powerhead for circulation and add a piece or two of rock rubble from a tank in there to get the bacteria population working on a cycle and curing.

If you so choose to "cook" the rock in the way I advocate you can then do that...the instructions for it are linked in my signature line.

Good luck,
Sean

 

[inwall75]

I know someone who really boils all of his LR. Before he does that, he powerwashes the living daylights out of it.

He doesn't want pests nor "all of the life". He just wants good shapes. The RO/DI water has low enough pH (7.0) that he does remove some of the phosphates. Apparently, the rolling action of the bubbles also removes a lot of the detritus.

I've boiled LPS skeletons and dead SPS skeletons but no large pieces of LR. I don't see any need to bake anything in an oven. Boiling will kill all of the algae spores, etc.

Judge Mikes tank for yourself. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/totm/index.php

 

[Boat Racer]

SeanT makes a gret point here

SeanT makes a gret point here

Most peopel dont understand the phosphate issue within these rocks.You must cook them in order to reduce or rid the rocks of them.If not the alge will at some point sooner or later come on strong.Boiling the rocks does not remove the phos from them.

 

[inwall75]

You will remove some of the phosphates. A neutral pH of 7.0 will cause dissolution of some of the CaCO3 and at the same time, some of the phosphates will de-adsorb.

However, I would imagine that the amount would be less than cooking for 8 weeks but there's no way of telling. However, boiling will destroy all coralline algae, bacteria, etc. while cooking will not.

 

[bassnman11]

Thanks for all the comments. I am setting up an additional tank and have new live rock curing and aged rock from my existing tank. I'm just looking for base rock that I don't have to wait another month or more to cure.

 

[CaveManNOhio]

I would just soak it in some RO/DI water with power heads for a few weeks, doing water changes then switch it over to salt water for a few weeks doing some water changes. Then put it in the tank and seed it naturally with LR you already have.

 

[Boat Racer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6605960#post6605960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SeanT
Hi,
I would not do that as I believe it would be a complete waste of time on your part.
IF everything (including bacteria) is dead on/in the rock then you have a great amount of stored phosphorous in the rocks.
What I would do is start up some ne saltwater, toss this rock in with a powerhead for circulation and add a piece or two of rock rubble from a tank in there to get the bacteria population working on a cycle and curing.

If you so choose to "cook" the rock in the way I advocate you can then do that...the instructions for it are linked in my signature line.

Good luck,
Sean

This is the only way to rid phos from base rock.You should do this and nothing else.

 

[inwall75]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6614256#post6614256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Boat Racer
This is the only way to rid phos from base rock.You should do this and nothing else.

I've cooked rock before. I know what it does. I'll likely cook rock again.

However, please don't allow your zeal for this method of cleaning out rock to cloud your judgement. It's not the "only" way of removing phosphates. I cannot quantify how much boiling in RO/DI water removes just like I cannot quantify how much cooking removes. However, chemistry shows that a nuetral pH of 7 will indeed cause dissolution and deadsorption.

 

[Boat Racer]

I guess I didnt exactly meen there is only one way I just wanted it known that soaking in ro/di water for 2 weeks then in salt water for two weeks and then in the tank will not do the job like cave man stated.While I have not done that method I'm pretty sure it wouldnt yeild the same results as dark long term curing.

 

[Sindjin]

I would agree that soaking in anything but Saltwater kept at display tank parameters would be setrimental to the rock and the bacterial colony you want working for you.

 

[Sindjin]

Uh... make that "detrimental".

 

[RichConley]

SeanT is right in this situation. Boiiling it will, yes, kill everything, but it will do nothing for getting all that dead stuff out of the rock. You'd be better off throwing it in as is, than boiling it and throwing it in.


YOu need to cure it.

 

[Highlander]

Does nobody use a micro-wave any more ??

Pity !!

Does a great number on aptasia and valonia


bassnman11
If the rock has been kept at temperature, I would just add some fresh salt water [sic] and circulation, and let it "run" a bit before using it. Should be fine IMHO

 

[Kent E]

I like the pressure washer idea. Then "cook" it, not boil it.

 

[rcmike]

Throw it in the washing machine for a while.

 

[JerseyReef]

I've posted this response in another active thread about "cooking" rocks.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6624674#post6624674

People who believe that just by throwing rock into a dark tub, will cure their problems are in for a rude awakening. Addressing the build up (if any) must occur first or your right back to square one in a few months time.

I don't know what happened to the old advice of scrubbing and dunking (or swishing) of any "rock" you received prior to cycling it or adding directly to the tank.

 

[Sindjin]

Because it was "Old Advice". Just like Wet/Dry's.
Only scrubbing,dunking and swishing once orior to placing the rock in your display does nothing for the months of shedding to come. it is a process that is continuous. The dark curing process, IMO, just speeds things up.

Ultimately, its a matter of preference. I am very meticulus about clean rock. Others may not be. If I can get dirt out of my rock with my Mag 9.5...then its still dirty, IMO...whether it accumulates on the bottom or not. But thats me.

 

[JerseyReef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6632778#post6632778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sindjin
Because it was "Old Advice". Just like Wet/Dry's.
Only scrubbing,dunking and swishing once orior to placing the rock in your display does nothing for the months of shedding to come. it is a process that is continuous. The dark curing process, IMO, just speeds things up

While I'll disagree with you that scrubbing, dunking and swishing is "old advice". It's prudent advice to perform this activity regardless of the method utilized.

While "dark curing" is an option to remove organic matter build up from a rock at an accelerated rate (lack of photosynthesis has a nice habit of killing living items that require it to live), removing the build up (if it really exists) requires dunking and swishing just like the "old advice" stated from years ago.

"Dark Curing" is not cure all as some people are claiming. It's a "treatment" option that's part of an overall plan. I'm not saying it doesn't work. I have rock that is "dark curing" for over 3 years. Why? Because that's what I've chosen to do, based on my situation.

I tried reading through the 22 page marathon thread that SeanT started and to be honest, I didn't see what the point was. Placing any rock in the dark will kill anything that requires light to live, anybody can do that. However, without removing the build up from the rock (if it existed in the first place) it's exercise in futilely. That rock will leach again and fuel the algae, unless the issues that caused the build up (if it existed) are addressed.

Maybe I missed it in that thread, but I didn't see the root cause to be identified and corrected. Did the hobbyist fully understand the issue or is looking at symptom of a larger issue at hand? Don't know for sure, after page 5 the discussion really fell apart, IMO.