Red Sea Max Owners Club

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I have a slight problem with the new Tunze Nano skimmer ... the top cover on the black box does not seat securely as it keeps popping up one end. It seems to me like the air tube is a bit too long & it pushes the cover up. Would it be OK to shorten the tube just a tad??? And the air adjustment screw is really tight! I can't seem to turn it by hand ... is it supposed to be like that??
 
Donna - After 2 unsuccessful at installing the Tunze, I can agree that the top just sits on it via gravity. I think if you push down the tubing a bit that it may let the lid lay flat. I can't see wht you couldn't clip off a small piece if that won't work. The air adjustment screw is very tight - my replacement screws were actually a little easier to turn. You might try some petroleum jelly on it - that might help.
 
Thanks Reefmack.
I really like the look of the Lalo. Had a few pieces in my 110g in Florida and loves the shapes and colors on it. kinda tired of the Fiji look for now. Wholly shipping cost! $42.00 in shipping...my how the fuel increase has affected everyting around us. =(

I am planning for a cycle in the 34g so uncured rock should be fine. Going to take it nice and slow with my RSM. =)

Tanks!
 
OK, Reefmack , I am going to take it out of the tank & see what I can do. The cover seems to snap closed on one end, but the bulk of the hose won't let the other end 'snap'. I used a screwdriver on the slot of the adjustment screw & that turned it ... not sure which way to turn, but will work that out once I have it closed up properly.
Today is water change day, so I'm off to do that. :)
 
donna53w,

I had the same problem, the hose to the air screw is too long, forcing the lid up.
If you're up for a fairly simple mod, you can deal with the popping up lid and hard to reach/adjust screw at the same time.

AIR SCREW MOD:

1) Remove top lid from skimmer (remove hose from air screw) and drill 15/64" hole in center of lid.
2) reassemble skimmer and run air screw hose up thru new drilled hole instead of attaching it to the air screw.
3) Install air screw valve from stock skimmer onto hose sticking out of top of skimmer.

Pulling the hose up thru the hole works like an elastic pulling the lid tight all the time. Adding a remote air screw valve eliminates the hard to adjust stock air screw.

I'll try to remember to take a pic, it was as easy as the skimmer silencer mod.
 
Hodge: Thanks for the info ... I don't get why Tunze is putting these skimmers together so that the tube is too long!!! I am going to tinker with it, & if all else fails, I will do the mod you suggest. Thanks for the instructions!!:thumbsup:
Have you given any thought to StevieT's skimmer cup for the Tunze??

Has anyone else tried the new cup?
 
I cannot believe that I have spent almost a whole day trying to get the hellishly annoying air tube on the Tunze Skimmer to stay put !!:mad2: I've taken the whole skimmer out 4x now, shortening the tube bit by bit, and it still will not let the top cover of the box stay firmly in place. It seems to work until I try to get the skimmer situated and then just slight pressure will pop off the lid. Grrrr... Another thing I've noticed is that when there is air pressure inside the skimmer box, that is when the air adjustment screw just seizes up. No pressure, no problem turning the screw. I am going to see if I can find a piece of rigid tubing, cut it to the perfect size and see if that will work!! Reefmack: No wonder you lost your original screw into the tank ... this is work!! :mad:
Hodge: Probably my best solution is to do your mod ... I think my tubing is too short by now to get it out through the new hole to be drilled in the lid. :(
BTW, no water change done yet.
 
Donna - my sympathy on the torture you're going through with the top of the Tunze staying in place. :( I thought there was something wrong with mine when I first got it - that the top was so loosely held in place. Yes - now you know how I lost my original air valve screw into my rock work. I think if I ever get back to mine I'll put some Vaseline on my threads, or just do the Hodge mod which would seem to make more sense. By the way, there is a Tunze forum here in Reef Central where you could go vent your frustration - Roger or one of the Tunze reps. is usually quick to reply with help.
 
Thanks, I didn't know there's a Tunze forum here!! :D Well, my last effort of the day is complete. Took the whole thing out once again ... took the bottom cover off, removed the pump, pulled the tubing tight (I had done this before, too) and now the cover is staying on. I shudder to think of adjusting the screw ... either I'll lose mine too, or the cover will pop up at me. For today ... that's good enough!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12821480#post12821480 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by donna53w
Thanks, I didn't know there's a Tunze forum here!! :D Well, my last effort of the day is complete. Took the whole thing out once again ... took the bottom cover off, removed the pump, pulled the tubing tight (I had done this before, too) and now the cover is staying on. I shudder to think of adjusting the screw ... either I'll lose mine too, or the cover will pop up at me. For today ... that's good enough!

I was thinking of getting one of these skimmers but now I'm wondering what to do, the stock skimmer isn't a great performer.
Oh BTW I removed the rear access panel that covers the skimmer, this helped with cooling & evaporation, it really doesn't take away from the enclosed hood, I'd rather do that & get better air/gas exchange than keeping the hood so tight in the first place, these tanks needs to breath.
 
To surface skim, close the gate ... push it UP, not all the way ... you'll know if it's too far up as your pumps will starve & cause a white out!! :) Let if surface skim for 15 minutes or so ... that should do it.
 
Scooterman67 - many of us run the water in front between 1/8 - 1/4 inch below the black trim so that there's enough open air space at the top of the gate to allow the surface oils to get pulled through. This, plus having one of your powerheads aimed up enough to cause some rippling of the surface really helps break up the surface scum and let it go out the back. If you have a Hydor Flow attached to one of the RSM powerheads, you can have it adjusted so that when the rotating flow is upwards it ripples the surface. I now keep my gate all the way down & do the above and I have no surface oils at all anymore.
 
Donna,

I got my Steve T. mod cup and media basket. All I can say is I'm very impressed with the workmanship and for $74 shipped it is a good deal. The collection cup fits like a charm and after a slight adjustment is collecting scum. The media basket is solid and I will be installing some rowaphos and carbon tommorow.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12821673#post12821673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Scooterman67
Ok I've got a question? Does anyone get a film on the top water? If so is there a way to get rid of it?

Not being able to surface skim and have the water surface hidden by the trim is a design flaw of the RSM.

Either lower the water so the surface is low enough for the grate to surface skim as Reefmack suggested or do the gate mod (page 6) to allow the tank to surface skim with the surface hidden by the trim.

Red Sea has attempted to fix it the 130D by hanging an unattractive cup in the display. :thumbdown I think the cup is a poor solution and don't understand why they didn't fix this properly instead of doing an ugly patch job.
 
Scooterman to get rid of the film on the surface toss those two little pumps that come with the RSM and put a maxi 1200 when I did that modthe film went away due to the increase in flow I suppose. Try it.
 
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