Reef formation.
- Thread starter sangraal
- Start date
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I use a quick-setting concrete mix with an equal amount of oyster shell. It has the same colour and texture as live rock, and you can sculpt or texture it to look like incrusting sponges etc.
You will have limited success with cable ties, expanding foam, epoxy, or silicone.
For certain branching effects and for concealing plumbing, I use 1/2" to 1.5" PVC pipe as a skeleton. Here are some pictures.
This size hole will accommodate up to 3/4" pipe.
Here are some cores. I find some pretty big burrowing worms and urchins within the rock. There's no doubt in my mind that the life within the rock is just as important as that on the surface.
The Closed loop intake in the foreground is 1". The hole in the rock allows for easy access with a tooth brush. The return line in the background is 3/4". It acts as a backbone for the drilled rocks, while concealing functional plumbing for a clean look.
This is the return at the other end of the tank. A series of elbows and tees provide a more realistic shape and allow for multiple return ports.
The two middle pipes are just for strength, there's no water flowing through them. A 1/4" PVC plate is buried beneath the substrate for stability. Threaded holes are located in the plate to accommodate male adapters to connect the vertical PVC pipe.
Side one of the finished product.
Side two of the finished product. You could add shotcrete to the areas where the pipe is visible, but it's very stable without it. The tank is only 10" wide, so a PVC skeleton was the only way to go.
You will find other options in this thread... http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993625
You will have limited success with cable ties, expanding foam, epoxy, or silicone.
For certain branching effects and for concealing plumbing, I use 1/2" to 1.5" PVC pipe as a skeleton. Here are some pictures.
This size hole will accommodate up to 3/4" pipe.
Here are some cores. I find some pretty big burrowing worms and urchins within the rock. There's no doubt in my mind that the life within the rock is just as important as that on the surface.
The Closed loop intake in the foreground is 1". The hole in the rock allows for easy access with a tooth brush. The return line in the background is 3/4". It acts as a backbone for the drilled rocks, while concealing functional plumbing for a clean look.
This is the return at the other end of the tank. A series of elbows and tees provide a more realistic shape and allow for multiple return ports.
The two middle pipes are just for strength, there's no water flowing through them. A 1/4" PVC plate is buried beneath the substrate for stability. Threaded holes are located in the plate to accommodate male adapters to connect the vertical PVC pipe.
Side one of the finished product.
Side two of the finished product. You could add shotcrete to the areas where the pipe is visible, but it's very stable without it. The tank is only 10" wide, so a PVC skeleton was the only way to go.
You will find other options in this thread... http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993625
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I have a friend with a stone scupture studio. He has core drills of all sizes. I've drilled rocks as thick as 18". You'd be surprised how quickly the diamond saws move through live rock.
The cheap hole saws designed for glass drilling work as well, but you have to drill in sections, as they are shallow. Regular masonry drill bits regquire the use of a hammer drill. hammer drills are too rough on live rock and will reduce big pieces down to rubble if you aren't careful.
I don't drill holes with big tanks. Cement does the trick, but it doesn't allow for the gravity-defying tricks of a PVC skeleton.
Here's another use for core drilling, that doesn't require a fancy saw (glass hole saws will suffice). The return lines from the closed loop are all hidden within holes in the rock.
The cheap hole saws designed for glass drilling work as well, but you have to drill in sections, as they are shallow. Regular masonry drill bits regquire the use of a hammer drill. hammer drills are too rough on live rock and will reduce big pieces down to rubble if you aren't careful.
I don't drill holes with big tanks. Cement does the trick, but it doesn't allow for the gravity-defying tricks of a PVC skeleton.
Here's another use for core drilling, that doesn't require a fancy saw (glass hole saws will suffice). The return lines from the closed loop are all hidden within holes in the rock.
Redstratplayer
New member
Have you drilled rock lke that to build caves ?
You know just a hole for fish to hide in.
You know just a hole for fish to hide in.
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