reef puddy

you can get the putty from home depot, rona or what hardware store you have in the states it is labeled as marine epoxy. it is the 2 part putty.
 
i have the glue and cant get it to stick to the rock, i went to salsolitos house and liked how it stuck
 
Seascape has them or you can use Aquamend available at HD or Lowes. Careful using that stuff on sps though. It can cause it to RTN on you. Super glue gel is best. You have to put a nice glob on the base of the frag and kinda work it in the rocks by twisting it a bit then hold it there for about 20 seconds.
 
I use the superglue gel, but I've found it's better to put a glob on the rock and another glob on the frag, then put them together. The stuff skins over as soon as it hits the water, so it's difficult to get it to bond to the other object underwater without some effort. By globbing both, I've found they both bond together underwater.

Aquamend and others (like the brand at Wally World) really don't seem to adhere nearly as well as superglue gel.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8658608#post8658608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rekn
i have the glue and cant get it to stick to the rock, i went to salsolitos house and liked how it stuck

Take a stainless steel knife and twist it into the rock as to drill a hole. Fiji rock is very porous and its easy to drill without much effort. Then fill the hole with super glue gel (I use locktite), and mount the frag. You may have to twist the frag around in the hole to break the surface of the glue. It's always worked like a champ for me.

I use the epoxy for larger colonies and LPS corals, SG gel for all of my SPS frags.
 
SUper glue GEL works great for small frags. First clean the area out or in the water with a toooth brush. Then apply glue to the bottom of the frag outside of the water. Next hold the glued end of the frag onto the cleaned spot. Hole for at least 20 seconds as still *** possible. It works very well. Have done many many times.
 
That's how I do most frags. You need to scrub the slime off the rock or it almost refuses to stick.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8659982#post8659982 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by COreefer
Take a stainless steel knife and twist it into the rock as to drill a hole. Fiji rock is very porous and its easy to drill without much effort. Then fill the hole with super glue gel (I use locktite), and mount the frag. You may have to twist the frag around in the hole to break the surface of the glue. It's always worked like a champ for me.

I use the epoxy for larger colonies and LPS corals, SG gel for all of my SPS frags.

I have found that you can use a drill bit and just twist it by hand to make the depression you need for the glue.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8664231#post8664231 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murfman
I have found that you can use a drill bit and just twist it by hand to make the depression you need for the glue.


I would have tried that but I've never had a clean bit to use. It probably would work better than a knife.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8661495#post8661495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by normanviking
I don't have slim on my rocks. I scurb the dietrus and sand off.

its probably the biofilm that needs scrubbing off. everything in a reef tank has biofilm and its slimey even though you cant see it.
 
I meant as in the obvious hideous slime. Not the micro stuff in between the rocks. My rocks are very "clean". Lots of coralline. Youv'e seen my tank. The rocks are only "dirty" where the cleanup crew can not reach.
 
I meant as in the obvious hideous slime. Not the micro stuff in between the rocks. My rocks are very "clean". Lots of coralline. Youv'e seen my tank. The rocks are only "dirty" where the cleanup crew can not reach.

It wasn't menat to be an aquarium maintenance comment. It's a surface prep thing. There's always a thin film covering the rocks. You need to scrub the spot where you want the glue to stick as you would power wash or scrape/sand your previously-painted siding to ensure the new paint bonds well.

I've done it with and without prep, and the prepared surface always has a better bond.
 
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