Reliable and cheap po4 test kit ?

[miserkris]

Is there one ? How about elos?

I'm fine with a ball park result as long as it's consistent each time.

Thx!

 

[heathlindner25]

Salifert, when you're measuring down to the millions you really don't want a ballpark.

 

[Sn8kbyt]

Hannah?

 

[intyme]

Api?

 

[downbeach]

I guess this will depend on what you consider "cheap" and/or "reliable", usually those terms are inconsistent with each other. PO4 is one of those elements that needs to be kept at a relatively low number, that is beyond the error margins of most of our hobby grade test kits. So, for this test in particular I believe that the "cheapest" and most "reliable" kit would be the Hanna ULR Phosphorus test kit.

 

[CStrickland]

I have an api and it doesn't measure low enough to do any good. I'm saving up for a Hanna ulr

 

[miserkris]

I guess this will depend on what you consider "cheap" and/or "reliable", usually those terms are inconsistent with each other. PO4 is one of those elements that needs to be kept at a relatively low number, that is beyond the error margins of most of our hobby grade test kits. So, for this test in particular I believe that the "cheapest" and most "reliable" kit would be the Hanna ULR Phosphorus test kit.

I'll go with hanna ulr thx[emoji2]

 

[miserkris]

Damn the Hanna ULR is ~ $50 ! Do I get the ULR phosphorus test kit or phosphate kit??

Can't find out how many tests can the kit last for? Is this the right model I need to buy:
http://www.aquacave.com/aquarium-mo...lorimeters/hanna-phosphate-checker-hi713.html

Salifert is ~$30 cheaper :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121278582335?lpid=82&chn=ps

Might switch from GFO (BRS dual reactor...messy to maintain) to Pellet reactor , when I transition I wanna keep testing Nitrate and phosphate weekly.

THANKS

 

[Hitch08]

I believe that most people will suggest that you get the ULR.

http://www.aquacave.com/hanna-phosphorous-checker-ultra-low-range-hi736.html

It comes with 6 packets of reagent.

Here's 25 more for $8.99. http://www.aquacave.com/aquarium-mo...use-with-hanna-hi736-phosphorous-checker.html

 

[miserkris]

I believe that most people will suggest that you get the ULR.

http://www.aquacave.com/hanna-phosphorous-checker-ultra-low-range-hi736.html

It comes with 6 packets of reagent.

Here's 25 more for $8.99. http://www.aquacave.com/aquarium-mo...use-with-hanna-hi736-phosphorous-checker.html

Thanks that's what I read about their differences:

For the Hanna Checker - make sure you know which one you are getting as there are TWO different models that look exactly the same. There is the HI-736 Ultra Low Range Phosphorus and the HI-713 Low Range Phosphate. The HI-736 is 2.6x more accurate than the HI-713.

The HI-736 Ultra Low Range Phosphorus Checker is the best one and reads in Parts Per Billion Phosphorus with a resolution of 1ppb and an error of +/- 5ppb. PPB Phosphorus is converted to PPM of Phosphate with the equation:
[PPM Phosphate] = [PPB Phosphorus] * 95 / 31 / 1000

The HI-713 Low Range Phosphate Checker isn't as precise and reads in Parts Per Million Phosphate with a resolution of 0.01ppm and an error rate of +/- 0.04ppm.

They are EXACTLY the same price, but the HI-736 is a little harder to find since most places don't sell it. If you want the best possible reading and don't care about using a calculator (or chart) to convert between phosphorus and phosphate, get the HI-736. If you are lazy and don't want to do that and don't care about the extra 2.6x accuracy you get with the ULR, then just get the HI-713.

Also, when getting a checker make sure you order an extra packet of the reagents (for the correct checker - HI-736 and HI-731 use different reagents) since the Phos checker only comes with 6 reagent packs.

 

[downbeach]

Since the price is about the same for either of the Hanna checkers, it only seemed like common sense to get the more accurate of the two(HI-736 phosphorous). Primarily because the element you are trying to test for would be best kept at a level (~.03ppm) that is less than the margin of error (+/- .04ppm) of the one checker(HI-713 phosphate). The only possible drawback to the phosphorous checker is the fact that you have to do some math to convert it from ppb to ppm.

Here is a printed table I found somewhere that will help:

 

[miserkris]

Thanks.

Hi736 arrived. I tested using both vials.one to fill sw....one with sw and reagent. I did that since the unit shuts off if I don't do the mixing fast enough. Is this ok?

I inserted the first during c1 and inserted the second during c2.

Reading was 5ppb....is that high? What's ideal for a reef tank?

 

[JammyBirch]

Thanks.

Hi736 arrived. I tested using both vials.one to fill sw....one with sw and reagent. I did that since the unit shuts off if I don't do the mixing fast enough. Is this ok?

I inserted the first during c1 and inserted the second during c2.

Reading was 5ppb....is that high? What's ideal for a reef tank?

Ya that's nothing...run a little GFO and you'll never have any trouble. I don't use a test kit I watch my glass works like a champ and costs nothing...I own the Hanna phosphate checker and wish I had the ULR

 

[miserkris]

Thanks. I started vodka dosing today.

The ulr Hanna phosphorus kit
Hi736 arrived. I tested using both vials.one to fill sw....one with sw and reagent. I did that since the unit shuts off if I don't do the mixing fast enough. Is this ok?

I inserted the first during c1 and inserted the second during c2.

Reading was 5ppb....is that high? What's ideal for a reef tank?my nitrates were zero (yellow)as per my api nitrate kit.

With normal ph,salinity,low phosphorus and nitrate I dunno what's causing the algae. ....lights are Chinese pendants on like 8hr daily.

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[mixed93cube]

I use the ULR

 

[tkeracer619]

I don't bother messing with anything until I hit 10ppb. 5ppb is right where you want to be, good job!

 

[miserkris]

I don't bother messing with anything until I hit 10ppb. 5ppb is right where you want to be, good job!

I might have made a mistake..I took sw from near gfo reactor output.maybe next time I will take sw from dt....to measure P.

 

[miserkris]

Hello...
A quick update...I've been
vodka dosing for a month.
My current dose is 1.2 ml daily...for my 80g sw volume.

Today I tested phosphorus using the hanna 736 kit.it shows 2ppb.
My api nitrates is zero.

I recently pulled out ha during a wc last week.slowly ha is coming back. Why is this?
Should I reduce or maintain current dosing amount?

I'm following the dosage instructions from below ...As per reef keeping.com :

When your NO3 and PO4 levels drop near undetectable with your test kits cut your current dose in half. This will be your starting maintenance dose .
Continue to test for NO3 and PO4. If levels become detectable in the future increase your daily dose by 0.1ml increments per week until the levels start to decrease. If you maintain that dose the levels will eventually drop back to undetectable. This would become your new maintenance dose.

 

[miserkris]

I'm dosing 2ml vodka daily. Still pull out ha weekly. Skimming well. Still having ha....growing.

I think I'm stuck in that black hole
Where phosphate trapped in old rock gets to ha before that freakin vodka bacteria gets it....lol!

This concept that i read often about in rc is bizarre. Doesn't make sense at all especially if u have awesome flow in dt.

That's why I'm looking for a rabbit fish. ..after i give vodka dosing till Halloween .

Ha must be pretty disgusting since even urchin don't eat it all the time.

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