Return Plumbing Ideas Needed

[booth2010]

I have done a few searches and did not see much. I am going to be doing a C2C overflow and refuse to have PVC go over the top of the tank. I was thinking about drilling the center of the tank just under the overflow but that would allow roughly 11gal of water to drain in to the sump in the event of a power outage. I was also thinking about drilling a whole through the back of the tank and through the front panel of the C2C overflow and having it go through there... I feel like this wouldnt look as nice but it would mean next to nothing draining back into the sump.

I was planning on using a check valve on the return in the original plan but was told they fail more often than not... Im just looking for ideas that keep the tank looking nice and clean... Any and all imput/ideas are welcome, pictures would be great!

BTW the tank is 40G Breeder (36wX18dX16t) sump is a 28g NRS-30. I am hoping to get away with a 36"wX3"dX4"t overflow but I wont know untill i can test where the pvc will end up...

 

[booth2010]

Oh and the return will be 3/4" pvc not sure on pump yet. Could be Sicce Syncra Silent 3.5, Eheim Compact 3000 or now the Jebao DC3000 is in the runnig now lol.. Head height of return will be around 35" + or - a few

 

[booth2010]

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[sleepydoc]

well, you only gave it a couple hours...

Option 1 - go up over the top, like you said you didn't want to. Get some Krylon Fusion paint and paint the plumbing black; spend a few bucks and get some PVC fittings and try this; it will probably look better than you think. If it works, you've saved drilling the tank. If it doesn't, you're out less than $10

Option 2 - Drill below the overflow, have the plumbing extend up close to the surface so you don't have as much back-siphoning. It avoids going over the top, but you get a bunch of exposed plumbing inside the tank.

Option 3 - have an almost-coast-to-coast overflow, extending from one end of the tank to approximately 4" from the other end and drill the bulkhead just below the rim. (minimum of 1 hole diameter from any other edge.) Less overflow area, more complicated to install but less plumbing inside the tank.

Drilling a hole through the tank and the overflow won't work for several reasons, among them that the hole will be too close to the edge of the overflow glass and it will likely crack.

You're right about the check valve - don't trust them.

 

[hk855]

With your overflow being 3"x4" in cross section I expect you will have space behind your tank. Run your return line up to a t near the top rim of your tank, one side goes to a 90 heading back down, drill a hole lower in the tank and this is the return line. The other side of the t goes to a flapper style check valve, but it is backwards so water doesn't flow out but air flows in. This can be either vertical, but would cause some view over the back, not an issue if you have a hood, or sideways with the outlet for the check valve over the tank or ad a 90 to be over the tank for safety in case some water does come out of it. Or this "airline" could be run back down to be above the sump but well above any possible water level, if it gets covered in water it will not break the siphon. Also keep the check valve up next to or above the t. This is more of a safety measure and not really needed as water rarely comes out the wrong way on the check valve but it can happen when restarting the pump. The water in the display will drop to the lowest point in the t if the pump dies. If you run the check valve sideways have it sit so the flap closes naturally with gravity.

 

[EvenFurther]

Pick left side or right side, drill the side panel of choice. Install a 45 or 90 into the tank inside.

Everything else seems like too much effort, considering you could create a clean over the top with time and effort.

You could run a PVC pipe thru the back panel, and thru the weir. Seems like to much drilling too me. And the return termination would be odd in front of the weir.

Without a check valve or some sort of complex automated isolation, you're very limited if you won't go over the top.

 

[booth2010]

well, you only gave it a couple hours...


Option 3 - have an almost-coast-to-coast overflow, extending from one end of the tank to approximately 4" from the other end and drill the bulkhead just below the rim. (minimum of 1 hole diameter from any other edge.) Less overflow area, more complicated to install but less plumbing inside the tank.

.

I only replied to Bump the thread I wasnt being impacient. Option 3 sounds like a good idea maybe ill do a 30" overflow and leave 6" free

 

[sleepydoc]

In terms of linear surface area, that won't compromise much - if your overflow is 4" wide, you'll only loose 2". There may be a difference in how effective the skimming is due to the geometry, but that's beyond my skills/knowledge to calculate.

Like I said above make sure you allow for enough clearance from the edges when you drill your holes, and plan everything out before you drill, including water levels, elbows, etc.

The end wall of the overflow only needs to be over far enough to clear the bulkhead and to let your hand in to clean, so you may be able to do less than 6", but don't spend hours agonizing over it.

 

[booth2010]

I was probably gonna have the edges of the whole 2" from the top edge and side edge of the back panel I guess I will determine how long to make it then once I see how much room I would need to get in there