Return pump for my 210

tony13

New member
I've read that to many 90's on the intake side of the pump may cause cavitation. But this setup would work the best for me, does anyone think there will be a problem? I want to keep the pump close to the wall so if you have an idea that would work better let me know. Thanks.
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Based on what I think you are going to do, you should be ok. Mine is setup similiarly and is also connected to a Rubbermaid trough. I would recomend not having the 90 at the pump intake directly, like I see above, but a straight piece, say 6in and then the 90.
 
i wouldnt but the valve so far from the pump...when u have to service pump all the water from the intake to the valve will end up on the floor...place right at pump...
 
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Thanks guys for your input. How does plan B look?
Maro1 the pump is a Hammerhead in the basement. The head is 14' so it should be pushing around 4000gph. That's way more than I want but that pump will be Tee'd off for the chiller, fuge (58G), Ca reactor, maybe future UV, also to sump pit for water changes. With all the Tee's I'm thinking it will be less by the time it hit the tank but I will still have a ball valve before hand to cut the flow down if needed. The returns will be goig thru two 1" seaswirls so I have to watch that I don't blow them across the room.LOL.
 
Much better. Would also add a valve at the rubbermaid and also at the outtake of the pump. This way all can be disassembled in times of repair, moving, etc. Don't limit yourself on the valves. More the better.
 
if your worryied about 90* fittings. how about sweep fitting. here in california they have them at Orchard supply.
 
jsteidl
Yeah your right, you know you try to save a few bucks where you can. But the right thing to do is put another valve by the sump.
ddrueckh
The Iwaki's are nice, but for the price, watts used and gph the sequence pumps are the way to go IMO. I've also heard there's no heat transfer.
 
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