return pump

I have 2inch pluming into my dart and 1.5" threaded x 2" slip adaptor screwed into the top of the dart then a straight 2" pipe running into the bottom of the OM. The 1.5" out of the OM for a few feet then reducing to 1.25" to the bulkheads then reducing right at each bulkhead to 1 inch. And I have 8 1" bulkheads im using. for the outputs into the tank. So each leg of the 4way splits into 2. And in the tank I had to put 1.25" outputs to spread the water flow out cuz it was to powerful. heres a pic.

80020rear_pluming.jpg
 
Cool CL, what size is your tank? That is a litle more elobrate than I have the ability to do as my tank is glass and not predrilled to the extent yours is. My main goal in doing the plumbing the way I outlined above is to try an hide as much of it as possible so the tank will fit into the space in our rec room. I couldn't plumb mine like yours because it wuld end up sticking out away fromthe wall too far.
 
I think you need to give the dart more room to breath. And don't under estimate its intake and output capabilities. This is a awesome pump let it run free! It will turn fish into tumble weeds if you don't spread the flow out and use big pipe. Its also not a pressure rated pump so to choke it down to 1 inch is going to cut a lot of flow. Then you still have to run it threw a OM and split it into at least 4 diff ways. I think its going to choke it down more then I would like. You also have a lot bigger tank then I have.
 
Mine is 3.5 inchs from the wall. You can see i installed the big bulkheads backwards and got street fittings to keep it close. I also turn the ball valves at an angle and done every other possible thing to keep the tank as close as possible. I even notched the stand to fit the pipes close to the tank. and so i can get the stand closer to the wall. Its a perfect distance from the wall. I can bearly fit my arm back to to pick up things that fall back there and check on things.
My tank is a 120 and is in my living room in a 1 bedroom apartment. Its about 3 feet behind my couch. I dont think your room is much smaller then mine. I actually wish i had more room so i could have kept the tank away from the wall better. I have a UV light bulb that went out and its like impossible to get back there to replace it. So keep all that stuff in mind when your building. Your going to need some room.
 
Part of the problem I have too is that my stand is not open inthe back like yours is, thus if I want to run plumbing behind the tank that means I have to cut holes in the back of the stand to accomidate the plumbing.
 
Where are you going to get the 2inch plumming the dart needs for the intake? You dont even have a drilled tank. I dont think your going to be able to use it.
 
I was pondering the same problem you are with the 180. I decided to go with a Gen X pump (same flow as the iwaki 55, less power consumed).

I got the external one rated at 1100gph and decided to run the return through a SCWD and then two Penductors.

I don't know how well it is going to work, but all indications are the combining the two penductors with my Tunze 6200s the flow will be rockin.

--Rick
 
They say a picutre is worth 1000 words so here a few pics of my tank. I think in all the typing I have confused you. My tank is drilled. It just doesn't have as many holes as yours.

84628180plumbing-med.jpg

84628180tank-med.jpg

84628180overflows-med.jpg


Hopefully, these pics will help clear up any confusion.
 
Yea but where is the 2 inch pipe comming from for the dart intake? First of all you cant run a closed loop threw a overflow box? 2nd of all a DART requires a 2inch intake pipe which your overflows dont have anyways.
 
The intake will have to come from behind the stand. I was doing some prelim measuring on this last night. Likely what I will do is drop an intake down the back of the tank and inthrough the back of the stand. I am going to build a shelf for the dart to sit on that will be located in the stand above the sump. The line from the dart will go straight up through the overflow to the 4 way and
then out to the tank.

Should this turn into a techical nightmare, then I will likely scrap the CL and go with a Tunze stream kit.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6575208#post6575208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reef_dude76
<snip>

Should this turn into a techical nightmare, then I will likely scrap the CL and go with a Tunze stream kit.
Click to expand...

Bingo! That is the conclusion I came to about 8 months ago! Streams ROCK!

--Rick
 
ricka I have never been a fan of SCWD's. They restrict so much flow and clog. They are very cheaply built and require you to hose clamp on cheap hose. I like to use PVC works and feels professional with no worries of a hose popping off. Also when you flow that much water threw that lil thing (or try to) it switches back and forth so fast any ways. I think they were made to be installed on small tanks, with low flow, and affordability more then usability. With any tank over 90g its just outta place to be runnign a scwd. If you really want to make it work tho i have seen people split the pump output to 2 different scwds then each to two different outputs. That will lower the flow to each one and reduce the drag.
I still say tho anyone that is building a 180 (which is a big tank) knows its going to take alot of money to finish it and has to much on the line to go cheap with it.
 
I've had good luck running a SCWD on the GenX pump.

The hose fittings a a real pita, but black hose strong clamps and a wood mount for the SCWD should help.

I'm not sure how much flow there is going to be because my chiller will come before the SCWD. It it's is too much, I plan on making it easy to swap the SCWD out for a actuated valve.

I figure if I can get 700 to 800 GPH into the penductor I'll be golden. According to this graph:

http://www.reefs.org/library/pumps/pumps/genx_mak4.html

With 10 feet of head (with is what I'm estimating) I should get 900 gph.

--Rick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6575208#post6575208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reef_dude76
Should this turn into a techical nightmare, then I will likely scrap the CL and go with a Tunze stream kit.
Click to expand...

I think that might be the best way for you. Your glass tank is not really set up for it. With a glass tank you cant' hide the intakes behind the rock like i did. Youll have to come up and over the back of the tank with 2inch pipeing. Then youll have that hanging down in the back of the tank. Not only that but is sounds like your not a big fan of plumming and a closed loop is all about plumming. Tunze might your best option buddy.
 
Plumbing itself doesn't bother me. And running the intake through the back of the stand in and of itself shouldn't be that difficult. I have estimated the flow of the dart using the overflow as return plumbing and should be circulating around 2200 gph. Add this to aroung 600-1000 gph thorugh the sump and I am turing over between 15-20 times the tank volume. Not to bad I think.
 
How bigs the canopy. I know your short on room like me but what about mounting the DART up higher some where? (dont ask me where just an idea) But that way the plummings not running from the top of the tank all the way down then back up above the tank again. Theres alot of different pics and ideas on www.oceansmotions.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Brian60077
Glad my friend stopped by to look at my new set up yesterday afternoon
Replies
4
Views
207
Brian60077
Brian60077
J
Back into the Hobby
Replies
15
Views
517
griss
griss
Itchy Trigger
DC Pump Recommendations Needed
Replies
5
Views
150
Itchy Trigger
Itchy Trigger
M
Need advice bringing back neglected tank
2 3
Replies
42
Views
2K
Atharv95
A
R
Auto water changes
Replies
9
Views
349
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top