Right or wrong way

[Cluanar]

After posting , reading , reviewing subjects in these forums I have come to the conclusion that there is only a wrong way to maintain your tank.

So many experts contradict each other yet the goals are the same. Deep sand, bare? Refug or skimmer? Socks or no socks, GFO or no GFO, pump positioning?

Bottom line is, try a way, if it works then leave it. If crap dies then change. So many variables based on your environment and budget it's up to you with some advice to figure it out.

I picked a path of what limits my hands on maintenance. You need to pick yours.

Plenty of good advice is out there for you to choose. What works for BOB may not work for you and what doesn't work for Mary may work for you.

 

[Rtdrumz]

So true. I can't tell you how many times I've been told I'm wrong, but it has worked for me, and in more than one setup.... BUT.... there are definitely some rules that WILL prevent many headaches. Such as - dip your coral, quarantine, live rock/sand will have hitchhikers and not all of them will be good, nothing good comes over feeding, etc..

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[nereefpat]

There are different camps on a few issues, but I think a lot of your examples are fairly easy to answer.

It mostly depends on your goals.

Almost no one uses a deep sand bed in a display tank. Going bare bottom is great for those that don't mind the look of it, don't want to keep Coris/Halichoerus wrasses or jawfish, and want to have a really high flow SPS tank.

Fuges and skimmers aren't mutually exclusive, and most people have some version of both.

Socks: It depends on how often you want to change them. Some people run them all the time, changing them frequently. Some folks run them will stirring things up in the tank. Some folks don't use them at all. I think all three approaches are understandable.

GFO: Blindly running it all the time doesn't make sense. Test for PO4. If you need to run GFO, run it. If not, don't.

Pump positioning is definitely trial and error.

I guess to some it up, do lots of reading and decide what your goals are.

 

[shaginwagon13]

After posting , reading , reviewing subjects in these forums I have come to the conclusion that there is only a wrong way to maintain your tank.

So many experts contradict each other yet the goals are the same. Deep sand, bare? Refug or skimmer? Socks or no socks, GFO or no GFO, pump positioning?

Bottom line is, try a way, if it works then leave it. If crap dies then change. So many variables based on your environment and budget it's up to you with some advice to figure it out.

I picked a path of what limits my hands on maintenance. You need to pick yours.

Plenty of good advice is out there for you to choose. What works for BOB may not work for you and what doesn't work for Mary may work for you.

You need to take a step back and analyze what your goals are, your experience and your budget.

Don't chase numbers and don't go out and spend thousands on equipment just because people say you need the newest and coolest gadget.

Be realistic in your goals, have fun and when in doubt do a water change.

 

[j.falk]

Be realistic in your goals, have fun and when in doubt do a water change.

Agreed!

 

[Cluanar]

There are different camps on a few issues, but I think a lot of your examples are fairly easy to answer.

It mostly depends on your goals.

Almost no one uses a deep sand bed in a display tank. Going bare bottom is great for those that don't mind the look of it, don't want to keep Coris/Halichoerus wrasses or jawfish, and want to have a really high flow SPS tank.

Fuges and skimmers aren't mutually exclusive, and most people have some version of both.

Socks: It depends on how often you want to change them. Some people run them all the time, changing them frequently. Some folks run them will stirring things up in the tank. Some folks don't use them at all. I think all three approaches are understandable.

GFO: Blindly running it all the time doesn't make sense. Test for PO4. If you need to run GFO, run it. If not, don't.

Pump positioning is definitely trial and error.

I guess to some it up, do lots of reading and decide what your goals are.

Yes ive by passed the GFO/Carbon til needed, removed socks so Chaeto gets fed, removed mud and crushed coral in refug, removed crushed coral in display for thin layer of fiji sand. added a second mp40.

Let see what a month will bring

 

[kmbyrnes]

The 'Right' way is the one that works for your tank. You may go down many 'wrong' ways until you find it.

 

[Cluanar]

Yes ive by passed the GFO/Carbon til needed, removed socks so Chaeto gets fed, removed mud and crushed coral in refug, removed crushed coral in display for thin layer of fiji sand. added a second mp40.

Let see what a month will bring

2 of my corals were turning white, phosphates almost non detectable , yes GFO without need can hurt.

lesson learned.

 

[shaginwagon13]

Carbon for long periods can also be a problem for tangs. Look up Head and Lateral Line Disease (HLLE).

 

[billdogg]

A number of years ago, about the time I was setting up my current system (120DT SPS dominant) I went to a local "Reef Farm" I walked around for awhile and was impressed with some the corals and their selection of clams. Then an employee approached me and as I always do at a new place, I tested his knowledge. Having been at this for nearly 30 years at the time, including almost 10 years working at a LFS specializing in Marine life, I feel that I am reasonably qualified to do this. What he knew about corals was somewhat limited, but adequate. Then we started talking about my current systems. At the time, they consisted of a 60g cube with VHO lighting, a dual biowheel HOB and a canister filter, the inhabitants being small reef fish, some soft corals (kenya trees, mushrooms, zoas and palys) and a few small LPS.

The other was a 150DT with VHO that also had a 120g refugium with 6+ inches of fine sand and a 50g sump. It's only inhabitant was a 4' Gymnothorax Undulatus (Undulated Moray)

He proceeded to tell me that both systems were doomed and everything was almost certainly going to die (a horrible death I presume). Apparently it is just not possible to utilize a HOB/canister filter combination because they are both "nitrate factories" that will, sooner rather than later, cause the tank to crash without warning. The same horror story was forthcoming about the 150 - this time because the DSB in the refugium would need complete replacement at least yearly or the same Doomsday scenario would unfold. Only if I switched over immediately to his ideas would my tanks and their creatures stand any chance at all.

I found this all to be quite informative! I then let him know that the 60 had been up for 22 years, and was doing quite well TYVM, and that the 150 and it's Eel had been with me for 25 years.


There are as many different ways to succeed in this hobby as there are people in it. You must find what works for you. I did through trial and error - there were precious few books about it when I started. The internet wasn't going to be around for 15 years or so. Now we all have a very valuable resource at our fingertips.

Read! Ask questions! And then figure out what will work best for you.

 

[sde1500]

A number of years ago, about the time I was setting up my current system (120DT SPS dominant) I went to a local "Reef Farm" I walked around for awhile and was impressed with some the corals and their selection of clams. Then an employee approached me and as I always do at a new place, I tested his knowledge. Having been at this for nearly 30 years at the time, including almost 10 years working at a LFS specializing in Marine life, I feel that I am reasonably qualified to do this. What he knew about corals was somewhat limited, but adequate. Then we started talking about my current systems. At the time, they consisted of a 60g cube with VHO lighting, a dual biowheel HOB and a canister filter, the inhabitants being small reef fish, some soft corals (kenya trees, mushrooms, zoas and palys) and a few small LPS.

The other was a 150DT with VHO that also had a 120g refugium with 6+ inches of fine sand and a 50g sump. It's only inhabitant was a 4' Gymnothorax Undulatus (Undulated Moray)

He proceeded to tell me that both systems were doomed and everything was almost certainly going to die (a horrible death I presume). Apparently it is just not possible to utilize a HOB/canister filter combination because they are both "nitrate factories" that will, sooner rather than later, cause the tank to crash without warning. The same horror story was forthcoming about the 150 - this time because the DSB in the refugium would need complete replacement at least yearly or the same Doomsday scenario would unfold. Only if I switched over immediately to his ideas would my tanks and their creatures stand any chance at all.

I found this all to be quite informative! I then let him know that the 60 had been up for 22 years, and was doing quite well TYVM, and that the 150 and it's Eel had been with me for 25 years.


There are as many different ways to succeed in this hobby as there are people in it. You must find what works for you. I did through trial and error - there were precious few books about it when I started. The internet wasn't going to be around for 15 years or so. Now we all have a very valuable resource at our fingertips.

Read! Ask questions! And then figure out what will work best for you.

Sounds like a lot of people around here too. I wonder how many people who hate on canister filters actually have used one, or just keep repeating what someone else said.

 

[Rtdrumz]

A number of years ago, about the time I was setting up my current system (120DT SPS dominant) I went to a local "Reef Farm" I walked around for awhile and was impressed with some the corals and their selection of clams. Then an employee approached me and as I always do at a new place, I tested his knowledge. Having been at this for nearly 30 years at the time, including almost 10 years working at a LFS specializing in Marine life, I feel that I am reasonably qualified to do this. What he knew about corals was somewhat limited, but adequate. Then we started talking about my current systems. At the time, they consisted of a 60g cube with VHO lighting, a dual biowheel HOB and a canister filter, the inhabitants being small reef fish, some soft corals (kenya trees, mushrooms, zoas and palys) and a few small LPS.

The other was a 150DT with VHO that also had a 120g refugium with 6+ inches of fine sand and a 50g sump. It's only inhabitant was a 4' Gymnothorax Undulatus (Undulated Moray)

He proceeded to tell me that both systems were doomed and everything was almost certainly going to die (a horrible death I presume). Apparently it is just not possible to utilize a HOB/canister filter combination because they are both "nitrate factories" that will, sooner rather than later, cause the tank to crash without warning. The same horror story was forthcoming about the 150 - this time because the DSB in the refugium would need complete replacement at least yearly or the same Doomsday scenario would unfold. Only if I switched over immediately to his ideas would my tanks and their creatures stand any chance at all.

I found this all to be quite informative! I then let him know that the 60 had been up for 22 years, and was doing quite well TYVM, and that the 150 and it's Eel had been with me for 25 years.


There are as many different ways to succeed in this hobby as there are people in it. You must find what works for you. I did through trial and error - there were precious few books about it when I started. The internet wasn't going to be around for 15 years or so. Now we all have a very valuable resource at our fingertips.

Read! Ask questions! And then figure out what will work best for you.

[emoji115]🖒

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