Rio Just Gave Me A Jolt!

*j-cat* said:
Does the GFCIs trip when you push the test button, if not replace them.

The GFCI does trip when I hit the test button and I guess the button does not need to come "all the way out" to trip the circuit". I thought that the overlapping ground portion of the plug would stop the GFCI from functioning properly. They again when I look at most plugs they all have this housing extension on them.
<a href=http://home.comcast.net/~mike-smith/DCP_1276.JPG>
Here is a picture of what I am talking about.</a> The GFCI does work when I hit the test button - what would have made it not trip?
That is a concern. I believe that the present GFIC you have is not working properly. I also would try a different brand. I also had one similar to the one you have and I always felt more comfortable with the Leviton standard.IMO I also like to use a power strip plugged into a GFIC,this way you can plug in the questionable item first,then flip the on/off button on the power strip. This way you will not be in direct contact when and if the item is faulty.
 
Last edited:
If you were not touching the powerhead but only the water or the rocks the GFCI should have tripped so although it trips with the test button it may be tripping at higher current than it should.

If you were touching the 3100 and the GFCI is functioning at the current level it should then the leak ahve had to be from both the neutral and the hot wires for you to get shocked without triping the FCI.

I will agree with Acropora and IMO you shall replace the GFCI anyhow and Leviton has a background of reliable products.
 
I had a RIO shock me on a GFCI. The GFCI was electrician installed. It didn't trip. I had the GFCI tested afterwards. No problems. I can't explain it, but it gives me an uneasy feeling.

Peter
 
I just had a Rio go out on me. It was my return pump. The power surged, and the pump did not go back on. I smelt a burning smell. When I finally pinpointed it, it was the good old Rio. It was smoking. Gosh, that is the last time I use one of those.
 
I suppose y'all were sleeping in "Electric Fields" class.

Let me repeat my earlier post: If you don't complete a circuit to ground the GFI WILL DO NOTHING!!!

Waste all your money and frustration by replacing GFI's until you're broke and blue in the face and you will still get zapped.

A ground probe is the only for-sure way to get the GFI to kill a leak, because then a leak will flow to ground and will trip the GFI.

Howabout an analogy: an electric eel can zap things in the water because it sets up an electric field. Your leaking RIO is a similar phenomena.
 
Welcome brother J-Cat to the ReefCentral chapter of the "Sixty-Cycle Shuffle Courtesy of RIO" club. I think we're all members now. Hmm... two prongs on a Rio cord. GFI circuits installed, but no clicky when I zappy?

As Yoda would say, "Magical, the third prong would be."

8)

Tom Siler
Columbus, OH
 
*j-cat* said:
Does the GFCIs trip when you push the test button, if not replace them.

The GFCI does trip when I hit the test button and I guess the button does not need to come "all the way out" to trip the circuit". I thought that the overlapping ground portion of the plug would stop the GFCI from functioning properly. They again when I look at most plugs they all have this housing extension on them.
<a href=http://home.comcast.net/~mike-smith/DCP_1276.JPG>
Here is a picture of what I am talking about.</a> The GFCI does work when I hit the test button - what would have made it not trip?
All GFCI have a threshold current for tripping. There are more sensitive ones, tripping at the current difference about 4-7mA and there are less sensitive, tripping when the difference between currents flowing out and flowing in is about 30mA.

Neither one will prevent the faulty pump from shocking you if it did not trip before you touch the pump. Your body can feel electricity even if less than 1mA.
5mA hurts badly. Your GFCI is probably for 20-30mA range, just to prevent electricuting you, not prevent jolting.

I would advice to check in your GFCI manual what is the current threshold they trip - this will explain and lets you understand what happened. Just to say: if 30mA pass through your body you would probably not talk to us today...

Also, as it was said already in this thread, faulty pump will NOT trip the GFCI on its own if there is no contact with the ground. If the pump has no grounding prong and the container is insulated from ground (because it is made of plastic) GFCI has no reason to trip because current flowing out from the receptacle equals the current flowing in.

If you have any other questions just ask... :rollface:
 
Maybe the point was missed. THE GFCI STILL SHOULD HAVE TRIPPED. Sure you may still get zapped in the future if you have "leakage", but at least the GFCI will stop you from getting seriously hurt. Your body is the ground for the electricity to move through, which should cause the loss of return electricity to the GFCI. This SHOULD trip the unit. In the home's wiring system, the GFCI constantly monitors electricity flowing in a circuit, to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through the circuit differs by a small amount from that returning, the GFCI quickly switches off power to that circuit. The GFCI interrupts power faster than a blink of an eye to prevent a lethal dose of electricity. You may receive a painful shock, but you should not be electrocuted or receive a serious shock injury.
 
Thanks pszemol,

Good explanation. Your post hadnt made it by the time I posted mine. "Electric Fields" class FriknFrag was that before, or after recess? :lol:
 
I see many messges all over the net about RIO pumps but I am yet to see one. I am wondering if I have a rebadged pump as one of mine will not spin up after the power has gone out, I have to give it a thump and some times I have to take the cover off and spin the impeller by hand to get it started.

So, can someone post a like to a picture of one of these RIO pumps so I can compair mine to it.
 
Hi,

Instead of a ground fault circuit breaker, ( which won't work for a double insulated two core device), you need a Residual Current device (basically, it works on the difference between the live wire and its return, and if the difference is too much, pops out.)

hope this helps.....

Bob:)
 
skozzy said:
I see many messges all over the net about RIO pumps but I am yet to see one. I am wondering if I have a rebadged pump as one of mine will not spin up after the power has gone out, I have to give it a thump and some times I have to take the cover off and spin the impeller by hand to get it started.

So, can someone post a like to a picture of one of these RIO pumps so I can compair mine to it.
Have you tried cleaning/replacing the impeller? It needs to be loose and the wheel needs to move half turn without resistance - this is important to reliable start. If two parts of impeller stuck together pump will have problems starting, like yours has.
 
PLEASE - PLEASE - PLEASE

If you want to help other people avoid this ongoing problem go to

http://www.cpsc.gov/

Follow the thread titled "Report an unsafe product"

The thread reads - "If youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve had an incident with a product that caused an injury, or even think that a product might not be safe, this is the place to report it. Help us save lives and prevent more injuries."

I have already reported RIO pumps, but the more people that report them the more likely they are to check into it. If you really want to make a difference just follow the thread. It only takes a few minutes.
 
From what I've heard, Rio has not seen a pump yet that was not destroyed by running dry. If you want them to fix their pumps, we need to start reporting it TO THEM everytime one of their pumps goes bad. How are they supposed to fix it if they don't know anything is wrong.
 
Hi Rich,

Haven't posted here in years but I see Rio "Taam" pumps are still shocking people and destroying reef aquariums. Tamm is perfectly aware of these problems and have been long before the begining of Reef Central.

Believe me, If they really wanted to fix the product, they would. Fact is, they couldn't care less. The 2500 in particular has a fatal engineering flaw that has never been fixed. Go ahead and send them letters, gone bad pumps, ect. They never reply because of lawsuit exposure.

The guy has a great business model of building cheap pumps that sometimes fail. Not just quit mind you, but wipe out your tank fail. They have no morals, ethics or principles except making money that I can see, and I've railed against these pumps for at least 9 years on line.

Good luck to everyone that insists on using their Rio "Taam" Pumps, just don't say you weren't warned about a thousand times at least on this board when you smell "that" smell.
 
Since the GFI did not trip, I'm inclined to think that the current leaving the RIO and moving through the water is finding its way back to the nutral side of the plug thus the current out is still equal to the current in. Even with your hand in the water, if the electricity is just going through your hand and exiting back to the nutral side of the plug, the GFI is not going to trip.

Is your tanked bonded (grounded)?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6696895#post6696895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bandsaw
Since the GFI did not trip, I'm inclined to think that the current leaving the RIO and moving through the water is finding its way back to the nutral side of the plug thus the current out is still equal to the current in. Even with your hand in the water, if the electricity is just going through your hand and exiting back to the nutral side of the plug, the GFI is not going to trip.

Is your tanked bonded (grounded)?
If you were jolted the GFCI must trip as the current went to ground trough your body creating the necessary unbalance to trigger it. Remember that they can go bad so test it regularly that is why they have the test button.
 
When a GFCI is installed on the fuse box side of a line everything downstream is also protected.
Fred
 
Back
Top