RO 150gpd to 75gpd?
- Thread starter fordsvt04
- Start date
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
More than likely yes. i may depepnd a little as to the brand RO your talking about.
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
no
But some brand ROs have the restrictor in defferent locations. what brand is yours
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Befor switching, test your membrane efficiency. If you are in the 96-98% efficient range I would not make the switch, you will not gain anything but in fact be going backwards in terms of GPD, quality with an off the shelf 75 GPD membrane will be the same.
If quality is what you are looking for them I might suggest ann individually hand tested and guaranteed 98%+ efficient Spectrapure Select series membrane. Unlike any other vendor they 100% hand test each and every membrane and guarantee its efficiency and production rate in writing. Its more than worth the cost difference when you consider its something that will last for years and years. For every 2% increase in efficiency you DOUBLE the life of your DI resin. I averaged 99.23% with my Select membrane over an 18 month period of testing.
The flow restrictor can be a small white tube with something like 750 mL stamped on it which would be installed on the waste line or it can be inside the line itself which is called a capillary tube restrictor. Pull the waste line out of the membrane housing and see if it has something like a piece of spaghetti with an end on it stuck inside the line. It may also be build into a 90 degree elbow but those are not as common.
If quality is what you are looking for them I might suggest ann individually hand tested and guaranteed 98%+ efficient Spectrapure Select series membrane. Unlike any other vendor they 100% hand test each and every membrane and guarantee its efficiency and production rate in writing. Its more than worth the cost difference when you consider its something that will last for years and years. For every 2% increase in efficiency you DOUBLE the life of your DI resin. I averaged 99.23% with my Select membrane over an 18 month period of testing.
The flow restrictor can be a small white tube with something like 750 mL stamped on it which would be installed on the waste line or it can be inside the line itself which is called a capillary tube restrictor. Pull the waste line out of the membrane housing and see if it has something like a piece of spaghetti with an end on it stuck inside the line. It may also be build into a 90 degree elbow but those are not as common.
my bad I have this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-10...hZ021QQcategoryZ20684QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-10...hZ021QQcategoryZ20684QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Nowhere the same quality. Notice they neglect to tell you who makes the membranes? Then they use a real coarse 5 micron nominal rated prefilter.
Next they use granular activated carbon which has a lifespan of about 300 total gallons. Add to that a 1 micron carbon block instead of a 0.5 or 0.6 micron Matrix Chlorine Guzzler, no where near the same quality or lifespan.
Then the puny little horizontal 6 to 9 oz hollow tube is in no way a DI filter like a true 20 oz vertical refillable unit. it will never perform the same or last nearly as long.
The fact is you get what you pay for with RO/DI, you go cheap you get cheap, you spend a little more you get quality. If you have hundreds or thousands invested in a reef system my skimp on water quality?
Next they use granular activated carbon which has a lifespan of about 300 total gallons. Add to that a 1 micron carbon block instead of a 0.5 or 0.6 micron Matrix Chlorine Guzzler, no where near the same quality or lifespan.
Then the puny little horizontal 6 to 9 oz hollow tube is in no way a DI filter like a true 20 oz vertical refillable unit. it will never perform the same or last nearly as long.
The fact is you get what you pay for with RO/DI, you go cheap you get cheap, you spend a little more you get quality. If you have hundreds or thousands invested in a reef system my skimp on water quality?
its seemed to do a good job for a while.... will im looking into changing my filters out with ones from airicewater
what you think about these?
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/DUALPACK/Dual_HomeReef_filter_DI_pack.html
what you think about these?
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/DUALPACK/Dual_HomeReef_filter_DI_pack.html
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Go with finer micron ratings.
One of the biggest enemies of carbon blocks is colloidal materials passed through a large micron prefilter. I recommend the prefilter be the same micron rating as the carbon block so it traps everything sediment or particulate wise so the carbon block does not have to act as a secondary prefilter. Carbon has a tremendous amount of microscopic pores and they foul or plug easily and defeat the purpose of the carbon which is to adsorb chlorine and volatile organic chemicals.
I use a 0.5 or better yet a 0.2 micron pleated absolute rated prefilter so noting gets to the 0.5 micron Matrix Chlorien Guzzler carbon block. Tow carbons are not needed if you use a single high quality block like the Matrix blocks. Its a holdover from the days when carbon was not what it is today or in the case of some vendors they use two cheaper less efficient carbons in place of one good one. This lets the advertise their unit has a bazillion stages like thats something wonderful. In truth all you need are 3 stages for RO and 4 stages ro a very good RO/DI.
I buy my replacements from www.spectrapure.com as they are the only vendor I am aware of who offers absolute rated prefilters instead of nominal rated prefilters which are not nearly as efficient. They test all their filters in parts of the country with high sediment loadings in their tap water like New York City and other locales. The 0.2 micron ZetaZorb is great as it is pleated so has 10x the surface area of a normal spun poly filter. Even though the micron range is much less it still lasts longer and works better compared to other filters.
Using better prefilters and carbons greatly extends the life of your RO membrane since its that much less sediment that never reaches the membrane and has to be flushed away. Its not unusual to find membranes that last 7 to 10 years with good filter replacements and normal maintenance schedules including disinfection of the system at filter changes.
One of the biggest enemies of carbon blocks is colloidal materials passed through a large micron prefilter. I recommend the prefilter be the same micron rating as the carbon block so it traps everything sediment or particulate wise so the carbon block does not have to act as a secondary prefilter. Carbon has a tremendous amount of microscopic pores and they foul or plug easily and defeat the purpose of the carbon which is to adsorb chlorine and volatile organic chemicals.
I use a 0.5 or better yet a 0.2 micron pleated absolute rated prefilter so noting gets to the 0.5 micron Matrix Chlorien Guzzler carbon block. Tow carbons are not needed if you use a single high quality block like the Matrix blocks. Its a holdover from the days when carbon was not what it is today or in the case of some vendors they use two cheaper less efficient carbons in place of one good one. This lets the advertise their unit has a bazillion stages like thats something wonderful. In truth all you need are 3 stages for RO and 4 stages ro a very good RO/DI.
I buy my replacements from www.spectrapure.com as they are the only vendor I am aware of who offers absolute rated prefilters instead of nominal rated prefilters which are not nearly as efficient. They test all their filters in parts of the country with high sediment loadings in their tap water like New York City and other locales. The 0.2 micron ZetaZorb is great as it is pleated so has 10x the surface area of a normal spun poly filter. Even though the micron range is much less it still lasts longer and works better compared to other filters.
Using better prefilters and carbons greatly extends the life of your RO membrane since its that much less sediment that never reaches the membrane and has to be flushed away. Its not unusual to find membranes that last 7 to 10 years with good filter replacements and normal maintenance schedules including disinfection of the system at filter changes.
