ro/di drain placement (washing machine)

[uhuru]

Hey guys,

I'm relocating my ro/di from under the sink to the washing machine so it's easier to connect to the sump. When I had it connected under the sink I used the drain saddle, but I was wondering for the washing machine if I could just run the drain line down the big pipe from the opening in the top. It doesn't look like a drain saddle would even fit around that big pipe anyways. If this is confusing I can take a picture of what I mean later.

 

[CleveYank]

If you are talking about the addon drains that are about even with the top of a washer that the washer's waste water pipe is hung on to that's a drain and that's fine. I would make a clip to hang RO/DI waste water in the same manner. I would not however run or drop the waste line down into the pipe. Could just imagine a murphy's law party trick in which the drain backed up and then the RO/DI unit somehow started back siphoning through itself. The heavens have alligned to cause stranger things.

 

[uhuru]

Yes that's the one I'm talking about. That's good to know. So I will probably zip tie the ro/di waste line to the washer's waste pipe as it enters the big drain pipe. Thanks!

 

[MarineFishGuy]

I used a brass Garden hose Y off the cold line and adapted from 3/4" hose to 1/4" icemaker line.
This avoids the saddle valve which can cause problems if you ever want to add a booster pump.

I run my drain down the washer drain as well. If the water backs up far enough to create a back siphon, then I will have almost 3 feet of water on the floor in the basement (floor drain) and it will have tripped the breaker due to the external pumps.

I also recently ran a T on the RO Unit drain line with a shutoff on the line going to the washer drain. The other side of the T goes out the wall to a 55gal Syrup container (Rain barrel equivalent). We collect the waste water and use it in the garden. During the winter months I can open the shutoff and the water goes down the drain instead.

I already had a 1/2" and 1'4" pipe thread tap so I used those to add connectors and a faucet on the barrel.
I can fill the barrel in about 1 day this time of year with evaporation.

 

[columbusreef]

Mine is ran down the pipe you are talking about. Works great.

 

[uhuru]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14989829#post14989829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarineFishGuy
I used a brass Garden hose Y off the cold line and adapted from 3/4" hose to 1/4" icemaker line.
This avoids the saddle valve which can cause problems if you ever want to add a booster pump.

I run my drain down the washer drain as well. If the water backs up far enough to create a back siphon, then I will have almost 3 feet of water on the floor in the basement (floor drain) and it will have tripped the breaker due to the external pumps.

I also recently ran a T on the RO Unit drain line with a shutoff on the line going to the washer drain. The other side of the T goes out the wall to a 55gal Syrup container (Rain barrel equivalent). We collect the waste water and use it in the garden. During the winter months I can open the shutoff and the water goes down the drain instead.

I already had a 1/2" and 1'4" pipe thread tap so I used those to add connectors and a faucet on the barrel.
I can fill the barrel in about 1 day this time of year with evaporation.

Yeah I have a booster pump too because I used to run on well water... now I'm on city water, should I still hook it up?

Good idea on running a T off the RO drain to reuse the water. I'll probably run the other line into the washing machine and only turn it on when I need to fill it up.

 

[MarineFishGuy]

If you use a Saddle Valve with a booster pump, the booster pump will burn out.

The hole created by the saddle valve is not large enough for what most booster pumps can pull. The pump will be starved for water shortening the life of the pump, perhaps significantly.

Using a Y off the Cold Water faucet for the washer will avoid this problem.

 

[uhuru]

Yes I am using a Y with a 1/4" quick connect fitting attached to the ro/di side... was just wondering if I should hook up the booster pump if the water pressure is pretty good here.

 

[MarineFishGuy]

If your pressure is over 65psi, it is of marginal additional benefit.
If you need more water than it can produce, the booster pump will do it without going to a higher gdp membrane.
My understanding is the 75gpd membrane is the best overall, unless you spring for the really expensive 100gpd membrane that requires a booster pump.

 

[CleveYank]

Marine's understanding on the 75's being the best overall is general belief. The greater than 75gpd plus membranes booster issue or not...the waste water is just insane. My waterbill spiked a bit more than just a little with the buckeye 150 gpd. Went back to a pair of lower output spectrapures.