RO/DI makes and why
- Thread starter j tavares
- Start date
aleonn
New member
From all the positive reviews on RC, I got the BRS 5-stage plus 75gpd RO/DI unit (comes with dual in-line TDS meters, automatic shut off valve, membrane flush kit, and all the adapters you'd need). I got the 150gpd upgrade kit, as well as a booster pump too. Other sponsors on RC also have great options (the rep for Buckeye Field Supply is very active on RO/DI threads) that you might want to check out too.
Catchoftheday
New member
so i have a quick question . I would like to get this 5 stage from BRS for mixing my salt and doing top off on my DT now my wife did some research and it is not good to drink RO/DI water is there a way to run the water threw the RO stage and then when i want to make water for the tank can i add the DI any help would be great
Yes get the drinking water add on kit, its easy to set up it will have two outlets, one that goes through a final "polishing" stage for drinking and to the faucet and one that goes to the DI canaster. They both will be connected at all times so its really easy to set up and use.
Plato
New member
Yes, on the line from the RO to the Di you will use a T to divert the RO water to a storage bladder. You also need a check valve after the T going to the bladder so after water goes to fill the bladder when DI is called for the bladder will not empty and so the RO under pressure from the tank will not be pushed back into the RO membrane. You will eventually want to install a premate pump scenes you will be filling a pressurized storage tank. As the back pressure increases your product to waste ratio gets worse. Using your sediment and carbon filter up faster. The premate pump is a mechanical/hydraulic pump that requires no electricity. You will also want a ASO valve rated 90% shut off for filling storage tanks. That is how mine is set up and works great. If you are unfimillar with the terms I can give you the links to the items talked about.
I bought the Air Water and Ice Typhoon III it makes up to 150 gallons a day
price was right it has a good solid warranty and the customer support is great
a year and a half after I bought it the auto shutoff was acting up I called them and had a free replacement part at my door 2 days later
also it dose have separate outlets for RO and RO/DI that you are looking for although I think most units have this
I also love the built in TDS meter it has I can check the quality of the output with a push of a button great for knowing when to change the filters without having to find the hand held which by the way is also included with the package
price was right it has a good solid warranty and the customer support is great
a year and a half after I bought it the auto shutoff was acting up I called them and had a free replacement part at my door 2 days later
also it dose have separate outlets for RO and RO/DI that you are looking for although I think most units have this
I also love the built in TDS meter it has I can check the quality of the output with a push of a button great for knowing when to change the filters without having to find the hand held which by the way is also included with the package
FragIt Dan
Marine Biologist
Dito on nanojg and Plato's comments. I purchased my 6 stage unit before I knew about BRS (otherwise I would have bought it from them) and run a T from my reservoir out to my DI unit and a drinking water filter. I now get my replacement parts and cartridges from BRS and have been very happy with what they have sent me.
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Why are you thinking you need a 180 gpd system? How big is your aquarium system?
Russ
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
I encourage folks to buy a 4 stage unit UNLESS you have some specific water quality issue you are trying to address, such as chloramines or heavy sediment loads in your feedwater.
Under normal circumstances, and for most people, a 4 stage system will do exactly what you need. Don't think that "more stages = better water."
Think "un-needed stages don't improve the water and cost you extra $ in operation and maintenance."
Russ
__________________
Have you visited Buckeye recently?
Hanna Checkers, GFO (pellet, granular, and HC), refractometers, 2-part additives, ROX 0.8 GAC, and more!
Reef Central S P O N S O R
RO/DI equipment and supplies at
www.BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
Sales@BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
HM Digital Master Distributor
Current Tank Info: 300 g mixed reef system
Under normal circumstances, and for most people, a 4 stage system will do exactly what you need. Don't think that "more stages = better water."
Think "un-needed stages don't improve the water and cost you extra $ in operation and maintenance."
Russ
__________________
Have you visited Buckeye recently?
Hanna Checkers, GFO (pellet, granular, and HC), refractometers, 2-part additives, ROX 0.8 GAC, and more!
Reef Central S P O N S O R
RO/DI equipment and supplies at
www.BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
Sales@BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
HM Digital Master Distributor
Current Tank Info: 300 g mixed reef system
Last edited:
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
We suggest folks avoid this approach. You can configure your system to provide both RO water for drinking and DI water for your tank, but you should avoid having RO water from the pressure tank reach the DI stage.
Russ
__________________
Have you visited Buckeye recently?
Hanna Checkers, GFO (pellet, granular, and HC), refractometers, 2-part additives, ROX 0.8 GAC, and more!
Reef Central S P O N S O R
RO/DI equipment and supplies at
www.BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
Sales@BuckeyeFieldSupply.com
HM Digital Master Distributor
Current Tank Info: 300 g mixed reef system
I do not need a 180 system I meant for 180 reef tank and three breeeders 40 gals sorry for the mistype, what do you have Buckeye ?Not happy w Kent marine at all, for one new replacement membrane is defective and never cared much for their rehashing of products especially all the additives!
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
So you have 180+40+40+40=300 gallons total.
You'll likely find a 75 gpd RODI will make water fast enough for you if you have some (unpessurized) storage capacity for DI water. I've run my 300 g system on a 75 gpd RODI for 10+ years.
Are you on city water with chloramines?
Are you on well water with water quality issues (e.g., high TDS, hardness, iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, heavy sediment loads) or low pressure?
Russ
You'll likely find a 75 gpd RODI will make water fast enough for you if you have some (unpessurized) storage capacity for DI water. I've run my 300 g system on a 75 gpd RODI for 10+ years.
Are you on city water with chloramines?
Are you on well water with water quality issues (e.g., high TDS, hardness, iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, heavy sediment loads) or low pressure?
Russ
Yup, I too have the BRS 5 stage unit and love the color changing DI resin and clear covers. I keep a 32 gallon storage bin filled at all times with a float valve and have a T on the RO side to fill my 5 gallon drinking water jugs.
You can always another membrane or upgrade to the kit to make it produce more water, but you really only need that much water when your first setting up. 75/day should be fine.
You can always another membrane or upgrade to the kit to make it produce more water, but you really only need that much water when your first setting up. 75/day should be fine.
MGM_
New member
Buckey and BRS def your best choices..You are not stuck with proprietary filters so filter replacement is reasonably priced and both offer GREAT customer support. 75GPD is what I use for my 180 gallon and TWO rubbermaid trash cans (avoid the ones with mold inhibitors). With booster pump I get well over 75GPD. Include 2 pressure gages and something to check TDS. Def want to check TDS after RO and after DI. I also found DUAL DI was cheap adder and significantly reduces DI usage. When TDS creeps I move the last DI filter to first position and place new media in second position. This allows you to fully exhaust DI. Probably the best tip I ever received.
FragIt Dan
Marine Biologist
Interesting. Thanks for letting me know. Why do you suggest against this? I would guess you want longer exposure in the DI resin but this is just a hunch. Would you recommend I just 'check valve' the drinking water side? I will check your website out to see how your systems are configured.
PS- I run 75gpd on 4 tanks, total water volume ~ 400g with no booster pump and it is enough, most of the time
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Feel free to PM us the name of your city/village and the name of your water utility. We'll check to see if they use chloramines.
Russ
Buckeye Hydro
.Registered Member
Interesting. Thanks for letting me know. Why do you suggest against this? I would guess you want longer exposure in the DI resin but this is just a hunch. Would you recommend I just 'check valve' the drinking water side? I will check your website out to see how your systems are configured.
PS- I run 75gpd on 4 tanks, total water volume ~ 400g with no booster pump and it is enough, most of the time
Dan - if you'll PM us your email we'll send you a plumbing diagram.
Russ
FragIt Dan
Marine Biologist
+1 - thanks Russ
NatureNerd
New member
If there are chloramines present, what is recommended? Can a unit with one DI stage do the job?
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