RO/DI question

nanjib

New member
yesterday i set up a kent maxima 50GPD RO/DI unit. I hooked it up and ran the first 10-12 gallons without the DI resin cartridge like it says. The purified water coming out had a TDS of 2 and it was coming out pretty fast but there were leaks coming from every nozzle. So i unfastened them all so i could tighten the parts with teflon tape running between canisters. Now it doesnt leak and the water coming out has a TDS of .01 but the water literally drips out while the wastewater comes out faster then i expected. What should this ratio be? Of course after unfastening all the nozzles running between the canisters I read in the manual that there are restricter caps on them that are factory set and u shouldnt mess with them but of course i already had lol. The problem seems to be the water coming from the Hi-S piece on top into canister 3. It comes in very slowly. I expected there to be a hole on the top of the DI cartridge but it doesnt even seem "open" like the others. Thank god for this forum because every marine product that ive bought has a crappy instruction manual that assumes you know what to do. When i take out the DI cartridge and try to get it to work as quickly as before it doesnt work which makes me think those restrictor caps i messed with are the problem but i just dont know. any help is appreciated thanks.
 
It's about 1gal of ro for every 10gal of waste. I have a 300gal holding tank for the waste and water my lawn with it.
 
wow i guess it is doing about 10:1 ratio that just seems ridiculously high to my newbness. had no idea i had to waste this much water is there any way to improve it? maybe the cartridges werent seated properly when it was producing alot more water with a slightly higher TDS.
 
The waste ratio should be 4:1, 4 waste to 1 good. Use a measuring cup and watch to time the flows from each. The critical part is the flow restrictor on the waste line, I believe on the Kent its a capillary type stuck inside the 1/4" tubing. If you pull the waste line off you should see a long piece of "spagetti" stuck inside the line, thats the flow restrictor.
 
The ratio depends on the area and water quality. I live in Indiana so our water is as hard as it gets due to the lime stone that we sit on. I also have city water not well so I get all of the additives like chlorine, flouride, and lots of rust from the pipes. 10:1 is a little high, but I don't know anybody that gets under 8:1 around here.
 
8:1 is way overkill and not needed. Waste ratios can be adjusted easily. Even in Phoenix with a TDS between 800 and 1000 I never run it over 6:1 and get 3 years out of a normal membrane. Get a capillary tube flow restrictor and trim it to between 4:1 and 6:1 and you will get much better production without shortening the membrane life.
 
A static (e.g., capillary) flow restrictor trimmed to length to yield a 4:1 at water temperatures with winter water temperattures won't yield a 4:1 at summer temperatures.

Not a bad idea to have one trimmed from summer and one for winter.

Was is more viscous when cold, and is harder to force through the membrane during the winter.

Russ @ BFS
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9724047#post9724047 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BuckeyeFS
A static (e.g., capillary) flow restrictor trimmed to length to yield a 4:1 at water temperatures with winter water temperatures won't yield a 4:1 at summer temperatures.

Not a bad idea to have one trimmed from summer and one for winter.

Was is more viscous when cold, and is harder to force through the membrane during the winter.

What I meant to say (suggestion to moderators - always allow editing):

A static (e.g., capillary) flow restrictor trimmed to length to yield a 4:1 at winter water temperatures won't yield a 4:1 at summer water temperatures.

Not a bad idea to have one trimmed from summer and one for winter.

Water is more viscous when cold, and is therefore harder to force through the membrane during the winter.

Russ @ BFS
 
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